Polish Lhotse expedition Sherpa Temba and Tenzing in high camp.
Image by Artur Hajzer courtesy http://polskihimalaizmzimowy.pl, SOURCE
Kuriki in Kathmandu hospital with serious frostbite a few days back.
Image by Kuriki Yama courtesy Kuriki Yama
Temba Sherpa, 39, on the Lhotse wall. He is survived by three children.
Image by Agna Bielecka courtesy http://polskihimalaizmzimowy.pl, SOURCE
The toll of difficult: Everest and Lhotse wrap

Posted: Oct 25, 2012 07:31 pm EDT
(Newsdesk) The 8000 meter peaks in Nepal closed the fall 2012 season with a few more chapters. The Polish attempt on Lhotse is over. Sadly the expedition lost a member on the climb.

Most climbers had already descended when expedition leader Artur Hajzer went on final summit push with two Sherpa. At 8250 meters Tenzing Sherpa's fingers had turned white and Artur decided to abort.

Hajzer came down with Tenzing; Temba followed on his own. Near high camp on the Lhotse wall, Hajzer and Tenzing spotted Temba's ice pick. Only moments before, the Sherpa had slipped and fallen to the bottom of the Lhotse face. His body was found at around 6600 meters by Korean Everest climbers headed up the wall in their own Everest summit attempt (result unknown).

The Polish climbers rushed down Tenzing to BC the same day, possibly saving his hands. The Sherpa suffered 2nd degree frostbite with no surgery required at this point.

There is a lengthy debrief on the expedition website (in Polish). Resident of Lumba Dingsang village, veteran climber Temba Sherpa (39) is survived by 3 children.


Meanwhile on Everest, Kuriki got to 7200 meters on October 13, climbed to 7500 meters three days later, and commenced summit push at 7 pm on the 17th.

After four days in the death zone (at this altitude the human body can no longer recoup) Kuriki arrived the base of Hornbein at 11 pm. He climbed the section through the night until aborting at 6 am the next morning, citing hard wind. He returned to his shelter at 7500 meters at 5.30 pm on the 18th, and called for rescue the next day, unable to use his hands.

Sherpa reportedly climbed up for Kuriki and reached him that same night, immediately commencing what must have been a nightmarish lowering of the mountaineer. The party reached camp 2 on the 20th, and Kuriki was airlifted to KTM this weekend.


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