2011 Denis (in image) led the way in another world first winter ascent: of Gasherbrum 2 (26,362'/8,035 m)
Image by Simone Moro courtesy Simone Moro, SOURCE
Winter permits, calendar climbs and more: 2004 ExWeb series revisit

Posted: Jan 07, 2013 06:05 am EST
(Newsdesk) In 2004 we ran a popular series about winter climbing in Himalaya. Following a long hiatus, Simone Moro was kicking off such ascents again and little was known about their (mostly Polish) history.

Winter permits are issued from December 1 but Moro said that by tradition ‘official’ winter is marked by calendar dates (December 21 to March 21). One climber summited a peak early December and claimed a winter climb (flagging a winter climbing permit) but Moro and his Polish stood their ground.

ExWeb checked in with other winter mountaineers to sort it out. One was Fernando Garrido, who did the first 8000+ solo winter climb in the world. The Spaniard pretty much summed up the prevailing consensus: "Lafaille is great - but a winter it was not" he said.

Following up, we put calendars and permits aside, and examined the weather only, in order to find the worst time to climb. Turned out the calendar agreed with the winter mountaineers. Here goes a rerun for our subscribers of the unique study and now classic entries.

ExWeb series - Winter climbing: The BAD chart

ExWeb series - Winter climbing: The BAD chart, part 2

ExWeb series - Winter climbing: The BAD chart, part 3

ExWeb series - Winter climbing: The BAD chart, part 4 final

Previous:

Winter 8000ers: Statistics recall

Related:

Explanations and wrap of statistics

ExWeb series: The meaning of winter in 8000+ climbing

ExWeb series: The meaning of winter in 8000+ climbing, part 2

ExWeb series: The meaning of winter in 8000+ climbing, part 3 final

Who's who

K2 series: Karakorum and ultimate winter challenges

K2 series: Karakorum and the ultimate winter challenge part 2

K2 series: Karakorum and the ultimate winter challenge part 3

K2 series: Karakorum and the ultimate winter challenge part 4

Awards:

Best of ExplorersWeb 2012 Awards Winner: Gasherbrum I First Winter Ascent

Best of ExplorersWeb 2011 Awards Winner: Gasherbrum II First Winter Ascent

Best of ExplorersWeb 2009 Awards: Winter Makalu, Simone Moro & Denis Urubko closing the games

Best of ExplorersWeb 2005 Awards: Simone and Piotr - Shisha Pangma First Winter Climb











#Mountaineering #Stats #topstory