Alex Txikon and Jose Fernandez were up to their chests in the snow on the top.
courtesy Alex Txikon and Jose Fernandez, SOURCE
North West Face of Laila Peak taken from Hushpang.
Image by Paul Holding, SOURCE
Laila Peak summit and rock crux.
courtesy Jose Fernandes, SOURCE
Winter Pakistan: Txikon and Fernandez bag first Winter Laila Peak summit

Posted: Feb 19, 2013 02:02 pm EST
(Newsdesk) Alex Txikon and Jose Fernandez reached the summit of Laila Peak on February 18th and therefore bagged the First Winter First Winter Ascent of this peak.

They left Camp 2 at 5600 meters early yesterday morning on their second summit attempt and pushed against wind and snow for 10 hours. At 4 pm. local time, their GPS read 6100 meters, said the team, with the snow up to their chests.

It was "very, very, very hard," reported the guys on Tixon's blog. It was a "wild day, extreme, harsh, endless, under very adverse weather conditions", also with technical difficulties. Winds were up to 60 km/h and temperatures as low as 35 degrees below zero, but with the wind-chill "it must have been very, very low," said the home team.

The descent was just as difficult, they say. It took them four hours to get back at Camp 2.

With their previous summit attempt they turned back 100 meters from the top. Fellow team mates, Juanjo San Sebastián and Ramón Portilla, who had turned back earlier because of a knee injury and frostbite respectively, were waiting for Alex and José at Base Camp. The two summiteers have arrived at BC today, according to a tweet from José.

Laila Peak has been climbed only twice, a total of only seven people have summited, one of them Simon Yates, according to Wikipedia. Laila Peak is in the Hushe Valley near Gondogoro Glacier is in Karakoram range and is 6,096 meters (20,000 ft) high. It has a distinctive spear-like shape. Its northwest face has a slope of 45 degrees in more than 1500 vertical meters.



Previous Laila Peak update

Winter Nanga Parbat: Joel Wischnewski search update

Splitboard in Pakistan: don't miss Laila peak debrief

Pakistan wrap-up: Laila Peak, "Time to piss on the fire"

Winter Nanga Parbat ExWeb interview with Daniele Nardi: "We can't afford mistakes"

Nanga Parbat / Winter Pakistan

Alex Txikon's blog

Jose Fernandez blog

Nardi's reports

Eli's reports

Joel Wischnewski

Polish on FB

Ian, David and Zoltan on FB

Tomek and Marek


News updates about Pakistan winter expeditions

Altitude Pakistan (Laila Peak)

RussianClimb (Amin Brakk)

Polish winter climbing news


Winter permits, calendar climbs and more: 2004 ExWeb series revisit

Winter 8000ers: Statistics recall

Himalaya winter games: list of expeditions is up

Hunt For Funds And A Tuna Freezer: ExWeb Interview With Team Nanga Parbat

Nanga Parbat weather forecast

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