Sergey Kondrashkin (33) from St. Petersburg is attempting Lhotse without sherpa support.
Image by RussianClimb courtesy RussianClimb.com, SOURCE
Everest attack, the Russian take: "We saw what happened on the wall"
Posted: Apr 30, 2013 06:35 pm EDT
(Newsdesk) In their very first visit to Himalaya, a bunch of Russian climbers climbing the normal route on Lhotse (shared with Everest to camp 3) got a close encounter with the events on the Lhotse wall a few days back.
Covering their climb, Lena Laletina from RussianClimb translated parts of the report for ExplorersWeb, penned by expedition leader Victor Koval:
"Headed up to camp 3 we were caught up at the bottom of the ice wall by the group of sherpas and a couple of Americans (heads of expeditions, interesting in fixing ropes on Everest) who persistently asked us not to continue our climb as to not to disturb the Sherpas.
We tried to explain to them for about half an hour that we could climb aside from the Sherpas without disturbing them, to which they eventually agreed. We set our tent almost below the bergschrund, although we had planned to climb higher for acclimatization.
At that time we saw Simone's team, after consent of those same Americans, climb up another 20 meters and traverse left just below the group of Sherpas who were fixing the rope. We saw from our position (below), how they traversed the slope on the level of Urubko-Bolotov's tent. They were talking with the Sherpas and we noticed nothing serious going on.
Then Sherpas went down, and we did not climb further, because we had already set the tent. On the evening of the same day I ran down to C2 for food and saw there a large group of quarrelsome Sherpas. It looked like a money dispute to me.
The next day we continued to climb to C3, and saw a lot of lost ropes and ice hooks. Only 6-7 ropes had been fixed. Just descended back to BC, we learned about this awful story."
Garrett Madison's Everest attack timeline and report
Everest Truce: Ministry Press Release
Altercation on Everest resolved
Previous - Everest brawl: Ueli going home
Press release on Ueli Steck's website
Incident on Simone Moro's website
Simone & Ueli's cameraman Jonathan Griffith reports to EpicTV
Planet Mountain interview with Simone Moro