"The route to Camp 2 is full of crevasses (there are some fixed belay ropes) and this year there's also very little snow thus some of the steep sections are heavily covered with ice. Crampons with really good prongs are highly recommended," said Kinga Baranowska.
Image by Samuli Mansikka courtesy Samuli Mansikka, SOURCE
Solo climber, Samuli Mansikka's camp.
Image by Samuli Mansikka courtesy Samuli Mansikka, SOURCE
Makalu: crevasses, steep ice and high winds on the mountain

Posted: May 01, 2013 06:28 pm EDT
(Newsdesk) With the summits of the first climbers on Makalu and the unfortunate death of a Chinese climber, the rest of the teams who arrived later on the mountain, experienced high winds with their rotation to Camp 2, 6600m. Today Samuli Mansikka from Finland tweeted from BC that there are still strong winds above 7000 meters.

Standard route - Northwest Ridge

Arjun Vajpai (19) and Asian Trekking

Arjun's mom, Priya Vajpai, updated ExplorersWeb about his and the Astrek team's position. "The team has reached Advance Base Camp. They completed their rotation to Camp 2. The team is feeling very good and in high sprits. They are working out the best weather window for their summit." Mrs. Vajpai also mentioned that Arjun is updating on Facebook.

Guide Gia Tortladze reported on April 29 that the night's stay at Camp 2 was like hanging out of a super fast moving train, "wind speeds were approx. 60km/hr... felt I would go flying along with my tent!"

The young Indian girl Krushna Patil also reported about the high winds in her tweets.

Names of the other team members are in the ExplorersWeb list

Polish duo

Last week Kinga Baranowska and Rafal Fronia went up to their Camp 1 at 6,300 m spent a night there, moved to 6600 m (Camp 2) and descended to the Base Camp. "The route to Camp 2 is full of crevasses (there are some fixed belay ropes) and this year there's also very little snow though some of the steep sections are heavily covered with ice. Crampons with really good prongs are highly recommended," said Kinga.

Yesterday she reported they are going up to continue the acclimatization process. "The weather forecast is constantly changing but according to the current one, the conditions should be quite decent." Temperatures are dropping though.

Solo Don Bowie

The latest report from Don Bowie was on April 26 when he reported about the first summits and death of the Chinese climber. If you have missed Don's description of his arrival in Kathmandu, checking in on KTM airport, and the flight to Lukla, in the live stream on ExWeb, do yourself a favor and read The Trip into Makalu... Part 1.

Solo Samuli Mansikka

On his first rotation the Finn went up to 6600m (his Camp 1), but it was too windy to go higher, he said. Today he planned to start with his second rotation from BC. "Hopefully the winds will allow us to reach Makalu La [7300m], put up my camp two and spend a night there to finalize my acclimatizing before the summit push." The winds didn't as he stayed put.

West Pillar

No new news from Stephan Siegrist and the Swiss team. They plan alpine style, no porters and no O2.

Makalu 27,825ft / 8481m

Expedition links

Kinga Baranowska's website

Kinga Baranowska on Facebook

Rafal Fronia on Facebook

Don Bowie's website

Don Bowie on Facebook

Arjun Vajpai on Facebook

Asian Trekking (Astrek) blog

Krushna Patil's blog

Krushna Patil on Twitter

Gavin Vickers on Twitter

Samuli Mansikka website

Samuli Mansikka on FB

Samuli Mansikka on Twitter

Azim Gheychisaz on Facebook

Azim Gheychisaz's website

Stephan Siegrist website

Stephan Siegrist on Facebook

ExplorersWeb list of Expeditions and websites

Previous/Related

Previous - Death on Makalu

Indian young gun Arjun Vajpai on Makalu

Related - Eye witness reports from Everest camp 2: the attacks were brutal




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