Azim Gheichisaz posted photos of him, Chung-FengYang of China, Xiang Yang-Liu and Lapka Dendi Sherpa summiting in April.
Image by Azim Gheichisaz courtesy Azim Gheichisaz, SOURCE

Image by Chung-FengYang courtesy Azim Gheichisaz, SOURCE

Image by Chung-FengYang courtesy Azim Gheichisaz, SOURCE

Image by Chung-FengYang courtesy Azim Gheichisaz, SOURCE
Makalu: Sherpa slipping into crevasse - updated

Posted: May 06, 2013 12:49 pm EDT
(By Correne Coetzer and Jan Komorowski, Polish contributor - updated May 06, 2013 11:44 am & 02:13 pm EDT) "Patience & focus" It's something his Mom has tried hard back home and he has always given her a slip..." updated the teenager, Arjun on the Standard route.. The West Pillar team reported how they saved a Sherpa from falling down a crevasse on the Normal Route.

As on Dhaulagiri, Makalu teams were hoping to start their summit attempts, but high winds are keeping them from doing so. Both the West Pillar team and the Northwest Ridge teams are being kept from the summit of Makalu for the second wave of summits. On April 24th, four people claim reaching the summit of Makalu: Azim Gheichisaz of Iran, Mr. Chung-FengYang of China, Mr. Xiang Yang-Liu of China (perished on descent), and Lapka Dendi Sherpa of Nepal - NW Ridge. Azim has posted Summit photo's,

Kinga Baranowska and Rafal Fronia - news from May 4 - after establishing C2 and a quick acclimatization push from C2 direction to Makalu La and leave their deposit, they had to descend to BC due to strong winds. Currently they are waiting for better weather in BC.

Don Bowie's Trip to Makalu BC Part 2.

Stephan Siegrist reported on May 3 they are alone on the west ridge, "enjoying the quiet and being able to fully concentrate on climbing. We heard of the events that took place on Everest over the radio and then from back home, and are even more glad to be over here on Makalu."

They climbed to 6200m on the ridge, "which leads to the actual West Pillar, and then continued after a rest day, and spent three nights on the normal route for further acclimatization up to 6800m. [...] We were pleasantly surprised with what was waiting for us; a snow-free stone and gravel ramp up to about 6000m."

Stephan also reported meeting a Japanese climber and his personal porter, Nima Sherpa, in C1 on the Normal Route where they were acclimatizing. They warned Nima about the crevasses at the campsite. "He began digging a platform and we went back to our pursuits of snow melting, drinking, eating, listening to music and reading. Suddenly I saw Nima’s head ... blubb, simply slip down one level; no cry, no sign of alarm! At first I did not know if maybe it was an optical illusion, but no, it was not! Daniel, who was in front of the tent and wearing shoes, was first on site! He grabbed Nima by the arm, his belly still hanging in the crevasse. Michi quickly arrived and wasting no time they pulled Nima out. All eyes were on the hole, maybe not really deep enough to be lethal, but Nima was now firmly convinced that we had saved his life!"

[Update May 06, 2013 02:13 pm EDT from the West Pillar home team] The team is waiting in BC for the weather to allow a second acclimatization ascent on the standard route. So far, they have reached 6800m on the standard route and 6200m on the west pillar.

[Ed note: news arrived from Priya Vajpaic with an update from her teenage son, Arjun with Asian trekking, May 06, 2013 11:44 am EDT]

"Mountain world is just getting wee bit boring....life just seemed to have stopped here....Winds don't seem to die down...looks like the jet streams don't want to leave the mountains:(( it's been snowing very hard for some time...the high camps have also got good snowfall along with the winds. We are receiving various weather forecasts and trying to analyze them...it seems there would be a window sometime during the 18thMay...so fingers crossed....."

"When I call back home I get this constant feeling my parents love the idea, that I have to wait with patience for my climb...I know what they like most about mountaineering, is my....."patience & focus" It's something my Mom has tried hard back home and I have always given her a slip..."

Previous/Related

Previous - Makalu: crevasses, steep ice and high winds on the mountain

Makalu 27,825ft / 8481m Expedition links

Northwest ridge / Standard / Normal Route:

Kinga and Rafal (Poland):
Kinga Baranowska's website
Kinga Baranowska on Facebook
Rafal Fronia on Facebook

Solo Don Bowie:
Don Bowie's website
Don Bowie on Facebook

Asian Trekking / Astrek:
Arjun Vajpai on Facebook
Asian Trekking (Astrek) blog
Krushna Patil's blog
Krushna Patil on Twitter

Solo Finland:
Samuli Mansikka website
Samuli Mansikka on FB
Samuli Mansikka on Twitter

Azim from Iran:
Azim Gheychisaz on Facebook
Azim Gheychisaz's website

Nima Sherpa and Japanese.

West Pillar Route:
[Ed note: May 06, 2013 02:13 pm EDT. Members countries corrected Germany and Switzerland, not all Swiss as previously reported, and more websites added]
Hans Mitterer (DE), Stephan Siegrist (CH), Michi Waerthl (DE), David Goettler (DE), Daniel Bartsch (DE)
Plus local helpers: BC cook (Man Baradur), cook’s mate (Ram) and a guide (Karma):
Stephan Siegrist's website updates
Stephan Siegrist on Facebook
David Goettler's website updates
David Goettler on Facebook
Michi Waerthl website
Michi Waerthl on Facebook
Daniel Bartsch website
Hans Mitterer no website

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