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LINKS
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Interview with Everest soloer
Posted: Mar 24, 2004 11:30 pm EST
An Armenian born Californian is off for a pretty cool Everest attempt this spring. In early April Ray will head out to Cho Oyu first, and then to Everest for a solo, no os attempt on the 1924 Norton line.
ExWeb got a brief interview with Ray before he heads off.
ExWeb: Could you tell us a bit about your self? Were you born in Armenia? How long have you lived in California?
Ray : I was born and raised in Armenia and moved to California in 1991. I went through the Russian (the old Soviet Union) climbing system, added some Armenian "flavor" to it and my Western views on mountaineering in general - that's where I think I stand at this point.
ExWeb: What is your previous climbing experience?
Ray :
1984-1990 - North Caucasus, Pamir (Varzob region, Aksu region), Elbrus (1984)
1992-1998 - Yosemite (up to 5.11)
Mexico Volcanoes
multiple routes on Mt.Whitney, Mt.Shasta,
1999 - Mt. Aconcagua (summit)
2000 - Mt. Everest, South East Ridge attempt (stopped due to an injury)
2001 - Mt.Lhotse, West Face, attempt, unsupported (stopped by bad weather)
2003 - Mt.McKinley, West Rib variation, solo(summit)
ExWeb: Most of the expeditions this year will be taking the Northeast ridge or South Col routes on Everest. Will you be taking the same route on Everest that Messner took in 1980? What are your plans on the 'variation'?
Ray: The plan is to stay close to 1924 Norton line up to 8500 m. After that? We'll see, there are a couple of options, but I’d rather not go into too much
technical detail at this point.
ExWeb: How did you decide on climbing alone, unsupported and without supplemental OS?
Ray : We are not born with certain views on climbing styles and stuff, it happens gradually during your climbing career.
ExWeb: Have you thought about what will be next?
Ray : What will be next? Coming back to my loved ones.
Ray Yeritsian, an Armenian born Californian, will be attempting the 1924 Norton line with variations on Everest this spring. The climb will be unsupported, solo, and without supplemental oxygen. He will also be attempting the summit of Cho Oyu in early April.
An usupported solo ascent is done without sherpas and on a route absent of other climbers. Messner is the only climber to do this on Everest to date.
Edward Norton’s expedition reached 8,573 meters, an altitude that was not surpassed for another 29 years. He also made his attempt without oxygen, a feat that only Messner was able to beat 56 years later, but Norton succumbed to exhaustion and near suffocation just 275 meter shy of the summit. Norton was seconds away from his death before coughing up his larynx on the descent.
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