32 years old Pemba Doma Sherpa was the first Nepalese woman to summit Everest from the north (Tibetan) side, and led the all-women Everest expedition in 2002. Image of Pemba courtesy of Climb High, image of Cho Oyu ABC courtesy of Alpine Ascents (click to enlarge).
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Cho Oyu’s Wednesday summits: Sherpani in the lead!
Posted: Sep 28, 2005 09:00 am EST
Teams are summiting Cho Oyu almost on a daily basis, thanks to a prolonged period of good weather. In today's summit crop: A guided expedition organized by a new Nepal outfitter. The summit team consisted of two western clients (Canadian Valerie Anne Pitkethly and Austrian Alexander Stickelberger), and head climbing Sherpa Lakpa Tsering. But it's the expedition leader that makes this particular team stand out.
Soldiers becoming Generals
Not only because the leader is a Sherpa – a positive sign of Nepalese climbers developing their own outfitting companies and becoming mountain guides. But because she is one of the few entrepreneurs in Nepal’s mountaineering business.
At 32 years old, Pemba Doma Sherpa is an experienced Himalayan climber. In 2000 she became the first Nepalese woman to summit Everest from the north (Tibetan) side. In 2002 she led the all-women Nepal expedition on Everest and became the second Nepalese girl to summit the Big E from both sides.
The burden of caste
Raised by her grandparents after losing her mother at the age of two, Pemba Doma Sherpa was educated at the Khumjung school, one of 26 schools established in the Solokhumbu region by Hillary's organization.
Pemba speaks nine languages and runs her own expeditions outfitting company, Climb High, and a non profit group, Save the Himalayan Kingdom - devoted to educate Nepalese children, regardless of caste.
Taking advantage of an unusually long period of good weather, many climbers are summiting Cho Oyu since Tuesday last week. More than 300 climbers are attempting the peak this season.
Cho Oyu, at 8188 m. is the sixth highest mountain in the world and was first climbed in October of 1954 by the Austrians Sepp Jöchler, Herbert Tichy, and Sherpa Pasang Dawa Lama. Climbed without oxygen, it was an amazing feat at that time.
Cho Oyu means “The Turquoise Goddess” in the Tibetan language. Because of the relatively non-technical climb on the normal route, the mountain is used by many climbers to get their first experience with 8000+ peaks.
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