Slovaks Dodo Kopold and Gabo Èmárik climbed an amazing new route on the southwest side of Great Trango Tower .The route involved 90-plus pitches and was graded UIAA 8 A2 (roughly 5.11+ A2). According to Slovak Mountaineering Union, the route's name is Assalam Alaikum (click to enlarge).
The Slovaks carried no sleeping bags and climbed alpine style, they fought poor weather during the climb and dangerous avalanche conditions while descending the peak’s western slopes. Kopold was avalanched several hundred feet but apparently was unharmed (click to enlarge).
Topo of the new Slovak route 'Assalam Alaikum', on the Great Trango Tower. Note: the line marked on the photo ends at the SW-Peak of Great Trango (6237 m). The highest point is about 400 meter along the ridge, All images courtesy of the expedition and the Slovak Mountaineering Union (click to enlarge).
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Slovak young guns' new super-route on Great Trango Tower
Posted: Sep 13, 2005 04:24 am EDT
Slovaks Dodo Kopold and Gabo Èmárik have climbed a new route on the southwest side of Great Trango Tower during the first days of August, according to Climbing.com. Apparently the new line runs to the right of the Azeem Ridge, opened last year by Americans Kelly Cordes and Josh Wharton. The new route has been named "Assalam Alaikum"
Eight days on the wall
“The route involved 90-plus pitches and was graded UIAA 8 A2 (roughly 5.11+ A2),” sources told Climbing.com. “The climb took eight days, from August 4 to 11. The Slovaks carried no sleeping bags and climbed alpine style, they fought poor weather during the climb and dangerous avalanche conditions while descending the peak’s western slopes. Kopold was ‘avalanched’ several hundred feet but apparently was unharmed.”
Karakorum regulars
The pair have been climbing the Karakorum spires for the second year now. In 2004 Kopold, along with Dino Kuráò and Jožo Santus, achieved the first repetition of the Khanadan Buttress route to Shipton Spire, climbing for two days in alpine style. Gabo Èmárik, member of the same expedition and teaming up with Igor Koller and Vlado Linek, attempted a first ascent on a nearby cliff.
The Trango Towers signal the threshold of the Karakorum. Located between Dunge, Biafo and Trango glaciers, the granite spires are a cherished goal for big-wall climbers from around the world.
The Great Trango Tower (6286m according to Japan survey in 1988), was first climbed by Americans Dennis Hennek (team leader), James Morrissey, John Roskelley, Galen Rowell, and Kim Schmitz, on July 21th , 1977, through the West Pillar.
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