(By Karrar Haidri) Pakistan Summer climbing expeditions are briefed at the Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP) in Islamabad by the ACP President, Manzoor Hussain, who gives information about dismantling the K2 fixed ropes up to Camp 4, compulsory Air Rescue cover with Askari Aviation and more. Here go details of three expeditions that were briefed on June 6th and 7th:
Tochigi Japanese K2 Expedition (8611m)
The Tochigi K2 Expedition led by Kitamura Seiichi (46 years old) comprises of eight members, including four senior members with ages above 60 years. One of them, Endo Hirotaka (64 years old), has attempted K2 three years ago.
The expedition plans to follow the traditional Abruzzi ridge for their climb. The ACP President in particular highlighted the preservation of the mountain ecology in the area. He noticed that a large number ropes have been fixed on the route above Camp 1, which have been the cause of many accident on K2. Therefore the expedition should undertake measures to dismantle the fixed ropes up to Camp 4 before closing the expedition.
He also instructed the Liaison officer to ensure that whatever is taken above the Base Camp must be brought down, including the wrappings/packing of the consumed food items, besides the ropes and the camping gear. He wished the Expedition good luck in their climb and hopes to meet them on their return back. The expedition was provided with a Viva Boltoro booklet, which lays down guidelines for all visitors to ensure environment preservation in Baltoro region.
1. Kitamura Seiichi M 46
2. Endo Hirotaka M 62
3. Sasaki Rihito M 23
4. Oyabe Akira M 42
5. Katayangi Norio M 64
6. Higashiyama Takashi M 32
7. Otomo Teruko F 68
8. Yoshida Michiko F 64
Romanian Nanga Parbat Expedition 2013 (8125m)
The Romanian Nanga Parbat Expedition is led by professional mountain guide, Zslot Torok (who attempted Nanga last year). The expedition, which comprises of five members, plans to attempt Nanga Parbat from Rupal Face, i.e. the East Wall along the SSE Pillar.
During the briefing the President of the ACP checked the grades of the climb and their strategy to tackle the Pillar. He also briefed the expedition about the earlier attempts made on this route, which is considered very difficult.
During the briefing it transpired that the expedition has not arranged for their Air Rescue cover with Askari Aviation and are relying on their mountain guide insurance. The ACP President emphasized that all mountaineers should arrange Air Rescue cover from Askari Aviation as problems are faced during emergencies, which has happened in number of cases in the past. In case of non-payment of prior Air rescue cover, Askari Aviation is not obliged to provide the services when required. The expedition agreed to send a copy of their guide's insurance, which covers Air Rescue.
The Romanians were also advised about the protection of the environment around the Rupal BC as well on the higher camps.
Latest news, June 18th, about the Romanian team is that they are in Advanced Base Camp for the second time.
Kunyang Chhish East Expedition (7431 m)
The Kunyang Chhish East Expedition 2013 team members are professional rock climbers and mountain guides. The expedition includes US Kyle Dempster, who plans to do the climb in alpine style by setting up few bivouacs.
Kunyang Chhish East is the peak on the East Ridge of the main Kunyang Chhish peak. It is directly accessible from Hispar Glacier and is dominated by a high wall. The rock face towards the South side is the main climbing route of the expedition. The ACP President was pleased to observe that the expedition had arranged for Air Rescue support with Askari Aviation. It is the members' first expedition to the area, traveling through Hunza and Nagar. ACP President emphasized preservation of the mountain environments and issued them a copy of the Viva Baltoro booklet.
Latest news: Previously the team reported that Austrian Hansjoerg Auer and Swiss Simon Anthamatten were to climb without Hansjoerg's brother, Matthias, who has an injured thumb. Latest report on their Facebook page is that Matthias is on his way to join the two at Base Camp (4100m). In the meantime Hansjörg and Simon already spent one night at the Ice Cake Peak (5200m) and said, "Kunyang Chhish looks like a monster!"
Bad Weather on Nanga Parbat, More Teams to Karakoram
Pakistan: Climbing Other than Eight-Thousander Peaks
Pakistan Expedition list on Altitude Pakistan
Preliminary list of expeditions to Pakistan
ExplorersWeb Expedition List
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