Kuriki Nobukazu lost 9 fingers on his 2012 Everest attempt.
Kuriki's route up the Lhotse wall is steeper but more direct that the normal route.
courtesy Explorersweb/Pythom, SOURCE
Everest Summit Push: Kuriki Descending UPDATE 2

Posted: Oct 06, 2015 11:54 pm EDT

(Eric Sakata/Tina Sjogren/story updated Oct 7, 11am/PT/second update Oct 7, 3.40pm/PT) 


Looks like Kuriki's team turned around early morning local time. The last two positions are descending. Seems they reached 8200 meters going into a couloir well known for snow accumulation leading up to the Balcony.


Had they pushed a bit longer they may have reached drier grounds although this section was probably very tough on a small team.


The climb thus far:

Oct 2: BC (5,300) ==> C2 (6,400)
Oct 3: C2 (6,400) ==> C3 (7,000)
Oct 4: C3 (7,000)
Oct 5: C3 (7,000)
Oct 6: C3 (7,000) ==> C4 (7,600~7,700) 
Oct 7: C4 (7,600~7,700) ==> South Col (~8000)

Oct 8  (local time): C4 (7,600~7,700) ==> Below Balcony (~8200) 


Related: Historically October 7 and 9 were the top Everest autumn summit days and here is why. (Pythom.com, free, login)


Previous (Posted Oct 7):


Kuriki left camp 4 at 19:15 local time ( 22:30 JST) for the final push and reached South Col shortly before midnight local time.


The climber (or climbers*) is/are following a variation of the standard route and keep moving to the summit which they'll try to reach early tomorrow before noon local time. Kuriki reports some cold and wind but that he feels good. 


*His blog uses the the term "we" and according to early reports Kuriki planned to climb with with Japanese co-climber Masaru Kadotani. 


Previous (Posted Oct 6):


News just arrived from Japan that Kuriki has commenced a second summit push on Mount Everest. The mountaineer is currently just below the South Col (camp 4) following an unusual approach on the Lhotse Wall to the left of The Black Turtle (raised bump on the Yellow Band).


This line has previously been used for a more direct route to Everest South Col. If all goes well, Kuriki's final summit approach should commence within around 15 hrs of this posting (7 PM local).


The climber reported strong winds this morning that weakened during the day. According to the expedition's forecast wind should subside further tomorrow and the mountaineer is reportedly in good health.


Read all about Kuriki's spectacular lonely attempt to climb Everest in 2012. The Japanese climber lost most his fingers to frostbite at the time but has now returned to Everest for a second chance on the top of the world.


Kuriki's blog

Kuriki's Spot

Line from Spot data on Imgur (note the latest position 19-40-25 is incorrect)


This story first appeared on Pythom.com


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Sky-skiing Makalu: Interview with Adrian Ballinger

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Unknown Himalaya: Interview with Luke Smithwick 

Nepal heads up: Rolwaling unclimbed peaks attempt

Himalaya Fall 2015: Slow start to the season; cool names returning for difficult quests

Climbers Missing in Kashmir

Himalaya Heads-Up: The Long Approach

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2015 Fall season kick-off

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