The intended line of ascent.
courtesy Czech SW Face New Route Team, SOURCE
Czech duo
Gasherbrum I SW Face: Czech New Route Summit-Bid is Underway

Posted: Aug 10, 2015 05:35 am EDT

(By Raheel Adnan) It's time for most significant climb in Karakoram, this season. Marek Holecek and Tomas Petrecek have launched their summit push via new route on Southwest Face of Gasherbrum I. The duo intends to climb the route in alpine style and get down to Base Camp in seven days. They are expecting good climbing conditions on the mountain. Weather in coming days is predicted to remain 'majorly' favourable, with few spells of clouds and light snow.

Tomas and Marek departed from BC on August 7th. By evening, they were already in Advanced Base Camp at around 5600m. If everything went as planned, the climbers must be on GI South-west wall, now. There may not be any communication from the team during summit push.

Along with cameraman Tomáš Galáska, Marek Holecek and Tomas Petrecek are the only 8000m climbers in Karakoram, now. After reaching BC in third week of July, the climbers immediately set out for acclimatization on Gasherbrum II normal route. They spent two nights on the mountain and climbed to an altitude of 7000m, before retreating to BC on July 25th.

Marek and Tomas’ intended line of ascent - a direct route up the Southwest Face of GI - has been attempted twice by Marek together with late Zdenek Hruby (in 2009 and 2013), reaching 7600m and 6800m, respectively.

Existing routes on GI SW face include Jerzy Kukuczka/Wojciech Kurtyka’s 1983 line and Valery Babanov/Victor Afanasiev 2008 route. In 1977, Yugoslavians climbed SW face in lower portion before following SW ridge to summit.




Based in Pakistan, mountaineering enthusiast Raheel Adnan is a reporter for Explorersweb's mountaineering sections. He shares regular updates on Twitter and runs his own blog at Altitude Pakistan posting initiated climbing news from Himalaya and Karakoram. 



Broad Peak 2015 Summit # 1: Mariano Galvan


Czech Gasherbrum I SW Face Climbers Waiting for Weather Window


Summer 2015: List of Summits this Season


Link Sar: First Ascent of West summit (6938m) by Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman


Filming Deceased Climbers, Ignoring Appeals to Save a Life: Disappointing Display of Mountaineering Ethics


Andrzej Bargiel: I'm rather ashamed of those climbers,


K2 season 2015: Himex and Madison, It's Over


Andrzej Bargiel Claims Broad Peak Summit and Ski Descent, Polish Skier missing on GII


Broad Peak Summit Push Thwarted, K2 Climbing Season


Summit-bids Update: Gasherbrum-I SUMMITed, K2 Summit-bid


Heads-up: Summit pushes all around


GI and GII Summit-Bids, K2 & Broad Peak Teams Mourn the Loss


Broad Peak Avalanche - 01 Presumed Dead, Multiple Injuries


Samina Baig on K2: It's over


Gasherbrum II Summits and More summit-pushes, Gasherbrum I


K2 Teams Continue the Acclimatization


Final Round of Acclimatization on Broad Peak


First Summit Bids of the Season on GII and GI


K2 Evac by Pakistan Military


Progress on K2, Broad Peak and Gasherbrums as Good Weather Holds


Gasherbrum Teams Start Acclimatization; Difficult Conditions


Broad Peak Climbers Marching in towards BC


K2 2015: Couple of Teams Reach Base Camp, Others still on the Way to Mountain


Summer 2015 Teams Locations Update


The Journey towards Mountain BCs Begins; Climbers Arriving


Summer 2015: Climbing Action in Karakoram Begins Soon


Gasherbrum I SW Face New Route: Czech Attempt 3


Swiss K2 2015: From Swtizerland to Skardu in Mercedes-Benz


#Mountaineering #K2 #BroadPeak #GI #GII