Ali, Alex, Simone and Tamara
Nanga Parbat: First Winter Summits! (Updated)

Posted: Feb 26, 2016 11:48 am EST

(by Raheel Adnan) 

Update at 2100hrs Pakistan time:-

Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger are safely back in C4, confirms the BC team. "Extremely tired, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have already reached C4 (7.200m). Feel obviously happy and satisfyed, but admit that today's work was "very hard and long"; that the summit-trapeze is "steeper than expected" and terrain was "really icy" on the last couloir. On the other hand, it was just extreme fatigue and early-morning-pukes what made Lunger desist not very far away from summit. Tomorrow will begin to descend at 10:00am."



The task pending since 1988 has been completed by Alex Txikon, Simone Moro and Ali Sadpara at around 15:40hrs local time, today. The first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat was confirmed by Base Camp, who had been in radio contact with climbers. The ‘fantastic' fourth member of the team, Tamara Lunger, had to stop a little short of summit, unfortunately. Precise details of her exit are not known, yet.


The climbers are already coming down. They will spend the night in C4 and retreat to BC, tomorrow. Weather remains favorable.


Methodological Ascent

Weather windows on Nanga Parbat in winter are never long enough. To utilize the current window, the team climbed lower portion of the mountain in bad weather. They were already in C2 when actual good conditions arrived. They utilized next three days to reach the top.


Continue to full story at 




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