Nanga Parbat Rupal BC (photo from 2006 Expedition). Romanian team is attempting Schell route on Rupal side this season.
courtesy Janos Torok, SOURCE
"Shaving our heads before long expeditions has become a ritual." Lithuanian Saulius Damulevicius and Ernestas Marksaitis are part of International Nanga Parbat Expedition.
courtesy Saulius Damulevicius , SOURCE
Trekking to Broad Peak BC.
"Anyone who has climbed GII, would surely have felt the strong attraction exerted by his older brother (GI)." Photo of Patxi Goni in front of GI. (GII Expedition 1999)
Pakistan: Teams Arrive at Base Camps

Posted: Jun 11, 2013 10:55 pm EDT

(By Raheel Adnan, Story updated June 12, 06:50 am EDT) Climbers who arrived in Pakistan a week ago are now reaching their respective Base Camps. Apart from adjusting in thin air, they have to get used to the Pakistani food as well. The majority of them reported stomach problems but fortunately nothing alarming. Base Camps on both Diamir and Rupal sides of Nanga Parbat are active now, whereas Karakoram teams are still on the move.


Nanga Parbat Rupal Side


The Romanian team aiming to climb Schell route on the Rupal side has reached the BC (3800m). The team consists of Marius Gane, Teo Vlad, Zsolt Torok, Bruno Adamcsek and Aurel Salasan. Currently, they are the only team on this side of Nanga Parbat. The team has been having digestive problems since their arrival in Pakistan but everyone is better now. Yesterday, they carried 60kg gear to Advance BC (4500m). The other Romanian team of Cosmin Andron and Cristina Pogacean had to cancel this year's Nanga Parbat expedition due to financial reasons.


Nanga Parbat Diamir Side


The Pakistani group led by Karim Hayyat was the only team working on Kinshofer route so far but with the arrival of the International Expedition, work can be divided between different climbers. Couple of days back, the Pakistanis went above C1 and shifted 500m of rope to a temporary camp site, 300 meters below planned C2.


Yesterday the International Expedition members were hoping to start the climb but bad weather didn't allow them to go up. Snowy and windy conditions are expected on Nanga Parbat for a few days. Three members of the Polish group have also reached Diamir BC safely (except for the stomach problem like everyone else).


Turkish climber, Tunc Findik, reached Islamabad on June 8th. As per recent report, he will be climbing with the Chinese group. They are still in Islamabad completing the official procedures and finalizing preparations before heading to Chilas.




The Japanese K2 team is currently on the way to Base Camp and members of the International expedition will start arriving in Pakistan by the end of this week. The International group will climb Cesen Route; without bottled oxygen and porters.


Another group has acquired permits to climb both Broad Peak and K2. This expedition includes New Zealander Martin Schmidt, his 25 years old son, Denali Schmidt, Australian Chris Warner and two Greek climbers, Alexander Aravides and Nicholas Mangitsis. They will first attempt Broad Peak and then K2 via Abruzzi Spur.


Starting from June 20th, a multinational expedition will also be attempting K2 via Abruzzi Spur. British explorer Adrian Hayes and Canadian Al Hancock will be part of the team. [Ed note June 12, 06:50 am EDT: team updated] The team is a British/Canadian/Nepalese team of Seven Summits Trekking: Lakpa Sherpa (Nepal), Adrian Hayes (UK), Al Hancock (Canada), plus 2-3 Sherpas.


Two Broad Peak expeditions, with around 24 climbers, are currently trekking on Baltoro Glacier. They are hoping to reach BC today (June 12th).


The German GI & GII Expedition, led by Thomas Lammle, left Besham, an intermediate town on the KKH, yesterday and was hoping to reach Skardu today. Apart from teams mentioned in earlier reports, Spaniard Patxi Goni and Oscar Cadiach will team up to climb Hidden Peak (GI) this summer.


Based in Lahore, Pakistan telecom engineer and mountaineering enthusiast Raheel Adnan is contributing reporter for ExplorersWeb's mountaineering sections. He shares regular updates on Twitter and runs his own blog at AltitudePakistan posting initiated climbing news from Himalaya and Karakoram.




K2, Nanga Parbat, Broad Peak and Gasherbrums Teams Arrive in Pakistan


Summer 2013: Climbing Season Kicks Off in Pakistan


Preliminary list of expeditions to Pakistan


ExplorersWeb Expedition List


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