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Trekking
Nepal - Dispatches |
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| Sunday 11 | |
 | Finally home in Uppsala, Sweden. After an 8,5 hour wait in Bangkok, were I sat of the time in an uncomfortable plastic chair, I'm finally home! When checking in with my ticket to my flight home, from Bangkok, they moved me up to business class- for the flight was so full of swedes. I didn't mind that at all! We flew with a jumbojet, 747 I think, and when they told me my seat was upstairs I then realized how big these planes really are. Nobody sat in the chair next to me so I streched out! I actually slept well, sleeping laying down! (first time sleeping laying down on a plane.) We had delicious food and I aspecialy liked the desserts! What a nice ending to my adventure! When arriving at Arlanda, Sweden, my parents stod waiting for me with flowers. It was nice meeting them again! But I miss Nepal. I will return!! Thank you Explorers Web for giving me this opportunity! This was a great adventure and I hope to finish it completely next year- reaching the top of the world! |
| Friday 9 | |
 | Last day in Kathmandu. Picture: a happy salesman that sold me a nice pink belt. We had a long discussion about the price, but after 5 min we finally agreed! Got up at 8.45 am and had breakfast at Pumpernickel, as usuall. ( white loaf of bread with cream-cheese, fresh squeezed orange juice & jasmine tea.) Went shopping for last gifts, and purchased a beautiful pink belt as well! (I love the color pink!) I'm now sitting on the roof top sunning in bikini! I'm not gingerbread-woman, but close. I'm leaving for the airport at 11.30 am tomorrow, and the plane is taking of at 1.50 pm. I know I'm overweight in luggage, but I'll just have to pay for the extra. (I'm of some wierd reason always overweight with luggage when traveling somewhere. A mystery...) Tonight I'm going to Tom & Jerry's for the last time- to say goodbye to everyone. A bit sad actually... I will miss this city, and country. I'm looking forward to my return! |
| Thursday 8 | |
 | Picture: mrs & mr Hari Dharel in front of there house & home. At 12.00 Hari's driver came and picked me up, here from my hotel. After a very bumpy 20 min we arrived to Hari's home. The house was beautiful! They had a gate and everything. Hari's wife showed me around the house, all 3 floors. When entering the first floor I got barked at by there 3,5 month old german- shepherd-dog. (First time he saw a blond tourist so naturaly he got scared of me.) All the stairways were made out of marble, and it was at least 4 meters to the celing (roof top, sorry bad spelling. There were gold borders along all walls, and beautiful lamps in glas & gold in every room. I felt like "Annie, the homeless girl" that just got adopted! (the house reminds me of the one in the movie "Annie".) In there garden they have pumpkin, lemon, corn, papaya and bananas growing. Very exotic! Hari & I sat down on there porch enjoying the first course- green salad in a good creamy souce, pistachios & some San Miguel beer. (his wife didn't join us- she was in the kitchen preparing the main cours.) Then for the main course we went inside to the kitchen, were it was served. We ate typical Nepali food: bhat= rise, chicken curry, fried potatoes, boiled greens and pickeled- HOT- beans. Very good! But I never did understand why his wife and sister never ate with us, only sat and basically feed us. They said "guests first". We finished with homemade ricepudding with cashews & yellow raisins in it. I'm at this point so full I'm gonna explode, but yet it's a good kind of fullness!( Not like with the steak the other day.) I met Hari's other dog, Johny. He was very nice! He's a watchdog at night, so he sleps during the day. I was surprised how gentil he acted considering he's a dangerous dog at night. I assum he has 2 personalities, one in daytime & one at night. Hari, me and his wife returned to Thamel, Kathmandu, around 3 pm. I then went to my hotel and took a nice long nap, for I was excousted afterwards! The Pumpernickel Cafe is calling for me. Time to go down there- order a pot of tea and write in my, soon filled, diary. |
| Wednesday 7 | |
 | 3 days left in Thamel, Kathmandu. I had a slow start today because of my cold that has a firm grip on me. (nose-running and cough) After a nice and long breakfast at Pumpernickel Cafe I walked over to a small salong were they do manicure & pedicure for a very resonable prize, 7 dollars. 1,5 hours I treated myself to some female aktivity, which was needed after 20 days of trekking. I enjoyed it very much and planning on having a body-massage on friday, if my sunburn calmes down. Erick and I had a nice dinner last night. We ate tandori-pizza with a pitcher beer. Very good! Erick left for San Francisco this morning, so guess I'm on my own again. Today Hari and his wife treated me to lunch! I had such a craving for meat that I ordered a steak with bearnaise-souce & french friez. (I'm actually a veggi and haven't eaten steak for at least 1,5 years, but when I get a craving for something- I have to have it.) I'm now extremelly full, and bulloded. My stomach is showing it's anger, cause of the meat, by enlarging itself. I now look like I'm pregnant in the 6:th month, very attractive! (therefore I'm not leaving my hotelroom anymore today.) |
| Tuesday 6 | |
 | Lunchtime in my room. Picture: View over the Pumpernickel Cafe, from my room. I eat breakfast, lunch and sometimes I enjoy a pot of jasmine-tea- while reading a good book in there garden-cafe. Just had a nice lunch with Erick, pre-med from Base camp, at the pumpernickel- bakery-garden-cafe. Nice meeting someone I know! Erick filled in my blanks regarding all the gossip on base camp. Yesterday I had dinner with Christina and Reki, two dannes, at the Four Seasons Restaurant. Afterwards we went to Tom & Jerry's and played pool. Then of to Fireclub for some dancing! Went to bed at 2.00am, excausted for I've gone to bed at 7.00pm the last 2 weeks. This morning I did some more shopping, and soon I'm of to get manikure & pedicure. ( much cheaper than in Sweden.) I just might get some massage as well! I burned myself yesterday in the sun, forgot to put sunblock on my legs. I've now got red stay-ups! Nice! Hopefully the burn will settle down soon, for I can't be in the sun- neither enjoy it. I'm in my room watching "The familiy Griswolds in Europe". I always laugh watching it, and it never goes old! Well, time for some manikure & pedicure! |
| Monday 5 | |
 | Noontime on the roof top. Picture: the roof top on my hotel, with my lunch; yak-cheese-sandwich + 7up + pistachios. I've got a cold so my head is a little fuzzy. My nose is running like Niagara falls, and I've got flem in my throat. Today I was on a shopping-trip in Thamel, center of Kathmandu. I bought so much stuff that I had problems carrying everything. I'm getting the hang of discussing the prizes, and getting a lower-better price. All thou I never go to low regarding the price, for this is a poor country and they make a living on us tourists. Yesterday I hade a wonderful dinner! I bought one watermelon, 3kg:s, one ripe mango, 7up and different kinds of nuts. I then enjoyed all this on the roof top with a gorgeus sunset. I,m planning on repeating this tonight! I'm now able to go on internet everyday so write in my guestbook! I'm planning on coming home as gingerbread-woman, so today's afternoon I'm gonna fry on the roof top! (with sunblock of course) |
| Sunday 4 | |
 | Back in Thamel, Kathmandu. Picture: This sign was at the end of Namchi Bazaar. I never said goodbuy because I'm coming back next year, to summit. Today was a loooong day. We arrived at Lukla Airport at 7.00am for the flight was gonna leave at 7.40am. "Sorry, but that flight was cancled. Come back at 10.00am". I got so angry, but what to do. (never fly Royal Nepal Airline.) We came back and luckally, for them, the plane was on it's way from Kathmandu. The plane contained me, 4 russians and a howl family from India. The plane did a stop after 20 min somewhere, I've got no clue, and got filled up with nepaliser instead. One of them had a broken leg, and it stunk like I don't know what. Finally landing at Kathmandu Airport, and me after 30 min holding my nose, got to take some nice big breaths of Kathmandu air. When arrived at my hotel, I jumped in the shower! I washed my hair, twice, shaved all the important places, scrubbed away all the dirt with a sponge- half of me disappeared, and soaped my body at least 3 times. It was the most wonderful shower I've ever had! Afterwards I creamed my body with fat bodylotion, for my body got so dry up there. I also put on some makeup- absolutelly wonderful! (I look great, except my nose for I burned it to many times.) I'm now gonna enjoy my clean self and suck up the last sun for the day! |
| Saturday 3 | |
 | Last day in the Himalaya. Left Namche Bazaar at 7.00 am this morning. After about 2 hours I started getting hungry for lunch. And we were 2 hours from our lunch stop, Phakding. I sort of went in to a trance, because of the hunger, and put in a higher gear. ( I was like a sherpa!) The hunger had now token over me, I was on a mission. If anyone stood in my way I would get very angry, and nobody wants to mess with a hungry+ angry boxer. When seeing the lunch place, it was like seeing Meka! I started walging, nearly running! After an absolutely wonderful lunch, and my stomach was in peace, we started our walk towards Lukla. I felt strong again, and with a satisfied stomach I thought it would be a piece of cake walking the last 2,5 hours. So wrong I was. Uphill, uphill, uphill... it never ended. And I was under the impression we were going down. "Are we going back to Base camp, Bhadra?" I wouldn't mind that, but my mind is sort of aiming for Lukla. "Soon there.." I got from Bhadra several times. My lunch, that I thought was filling, disappeared just after an hour, so again my stomach started screaming for food. And if it couldn't get any worse, my water ran out. People were passing me on the right and left, and I got more and more irritated about how a 70 year old guy can have more energy than me. Were did all my energy go, I who had the speed and strength like a sherpa just before. I found my mouth hanging, because of dehydration, and all my eyes could see was hill after hill. "Will this never end?" At 3.54 pm I passed the Lukla-sign. Both me and Bhadra were nearly dead, from dehydration, and put our last effort in to getting to the guesthouse. When getting my room we both fell down on the bed and sighed. I'm now enjoying a thermos milk tea, pop corn, grilled sandwich and WATER!!! Leaving for Kathmandu tomorrow at 7.00am. This was a wonderful adventure! People usually say: "I found my self in Paris." Well... I found myself in the Himalayas! I will return, definitely!!! |
| Friday 2 | |
 | Namchi Bazaar, afternoon. Picture: Me sitting on the steps, which we are gonna walk up soon, with rhododendrum-bushes behind me. Today it was nice walking! I had so much energy. There were a lot of hills, both up and down, and I was walking with a big smile on my face. Maby I was so happy because the spring has hit me. The birds were singing and the smell of rhododendrum-flowers is wonderful. I guess it's my swedish side coming up to the surface. ( Swede's "wake up" when the sun is out; we're sun-worshipers.) Right before lunch we walked threw a rhododendrum garden, and it was pink, white and red all around us. It was amazing! Yesterday I had an interesting discussion with 3 russians. We were discussing how Russia should act regarding there economy. Afterwards we sat in front of the warm oven drinking russian wisky. (I wasn't very fond of it, so I only had one glass. We only needed some big fat cigars, and then it would be a perfect painting.) Here in Namchi it's warm, I like it! I took of my socks, in my room- not in the diningroom; gotta spare the other guests, and it was wonderful airing my feet! I'm planning on washing them tonight, for they need it! When I get home I'll scrub them thurley, take away all the dirt in between my toes. I'm now enjoying some milk-tea, in a small thermos, and some pop corn. Today I have no thoughts on leaving the diningroom, I'm just gonna sit here writing in my diary, sipping on my tea and filling my mouth with pop corn! |
| Thursday 1 | |
 | Tengboche, afternoon. Finally reached tree-line! Easier breathing, not used to this much oxygen. I'm turning in to an air-o-halic, taking deep breaths constantly! Picture: Far in the distance you can see Tengboche. Far far far away. Luckally it's downhill the most of the time! Slept 12 hours, feel really good! Left Pheriche this morning at 8.30. Stopped in some small villages for lemon tea, gives energy, and finally arrived in Tengboche- for a late lunch. I ordered mashed potatoes again. (I just can't seem to get rid of this craving.) I've ordered a special dinner for when I get home: Thanksgiving dinner. I just love that dinner with mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, gravy, cranberries... I love it. Maby that's why I have such a craving for mashed potatoes; because I know what's waiting for me when I get home (I seem to dream about food every night now... potatoes in perticular) It's a lot of downhill now, and my knees are doing great. But my big toe-nails are not so good. I think they're changing color, black. When walking downhill your foot is automatically pushed forward in the boot, which results in rubbing against the front wall of the shoe. Not fun. Well, look at the bright side: I won't have to paint my toe-nails when back in Kathmandu! (I hear black is the latest in toe-nail-color) My MD, mini disc, died on me today, typical. I tried fixing it, but I think I made it worse. So I had to walk without music, which in the beginning was very painful but after a while I kinda enjoyed it! I'll tell you a secret; the mountains sing. (wait, didn't I say this in a dispatch before... oh well... doesn't hurt repeating it) It's true! Met some russians today, very friendly people! Hearing them talk made me feel like I'm trekking in Russia. I was just waiting for them to sing: Kalinka kalinka kalinka... (I think it's a russian song anyway) I'm eating like a horse here, I'm soooo... hungry. I hope it's only here, I can't afford it otherwise. I've already, in 2 hours, eaten: a big portion mashed potatoes, 2 boiled eggs, one big portion boiled cabbage, 1 portion fried potatoes and one thermos milk tea. And I'm still hungry, how weard isn't that?!? (Plus I'm gonna gas up my room tonight because of all the cabbage) Now it's time to visit the monastery, 3 pm. Tomorrow Namchi Bazaar, and after that Lukla! Next year I will go on the summit, and I will reach the Top Of The World! (this trip turned into a trial-trip... to see how my body would react.) |
| Wednesday 30 | |
 | Pheriche 4200 meters. Today we walked 6 hours, from Gorak Shep to Pheriche. Picture: When coming farther down the mountain you sometimes see bones from different animals. I hope there's no big snowman that eats us humans, I'd like to return home to Sweden with all my bones in my body. When getting closer to Pheriche a smell hit me when walking. The smell was earth, wet dirt, and bushes. I haven't smelled these smells in a long time, and it was wonderful smelling them! I also saw purple flowers in the valley where we walked. Beautiful! When we arrived I got my room, number 10, and ordered lunch after settleing in. (Even though we passed lunchtime, I had to eat. 2.30 pm) I had a craving for mashed potatoes and boiled carrots, so I ordered that. After I ordered my lunch I took of my trekking-boots, for my feet were very hot. Bad thing to do, at least in the dining-room. When my feet reached normal air they started to reek, they were so hot. And the smell... oh boy it was bad. People actually started looking at me with a look like: you should put your shoes on again for it's ruining our apetite. I miss B.C. It's really a wonderful place, I think. Here there's no gossip, I don't even have anyone to talk to, much less gossip with. And all the jokes we shared with each other. Being up at B.C more than 2 weeks makes your brain mushy, which results in better jokes! Talking to a person, that's been there for a month, is the best. I almost peed my pants because I was laughing so hard! I think I, before going to bed tonight, will write down some of the jokes that were told up at B.C. Then when down at normal sea level I'll read them, to see if they're as funny as on B.C. |
| Tuesday 29 | |
 | Last day at base camp. Picture: You can see "The Top Of The World" behind the mountain. Was cold all last night so I slept badly. We watched the movie Memento, and when there was only 20min left of the movie the generator spiked and blew up all the fuses in camp. Luckally the computer didn't get hurt. (We watch DVDs on it) I feel bad about leaving B.C. I've just got in the groove, and found friends, and now I have to leave. I'm hoping to return next year though. In one way I'm looking forward leaving but it's sad too. I mean I've reached my goal, and now I'm on my way home. The adventure is finished. If there's one thing I wont miss, at B.C, it's the so called "toilet". I really miss indoor plumbing. There's nothing worse than getting up in the middle of the night, and freezing your butt of. One thing I'll most surely miss: Here on B.C. a lot of gossip flowes around from mouth to mouth. One of my favorite stories is about the massus. He's a weard little man that's hanging around B.C helping people with stiff necks. He actually helped someone with hemroids, all thou I don't know how. He was staying in the India- Nepal Army camp, but just a few days ago he got kicked out, for he was arrogant. They actually threw stones at him... He's given us all lot's of good laughes. I'm planning on being back in Lukla in 5 days, I'm taking it slow on the way down due to my kneeproblems. Time for lunch now and after that we, me and Bhadra, hit the road for Gorak Shep. |
| Monday 28 | |
 | I just got back from an incredible lunch! Me, Luanne & Erik were invited for lunch by the Indian & Nepali Army. We ate indian food, and it was the first time I sweated at base camp, from food. They treated us like royalty! It was amazing! First we got an appertizer- drink, I think it was some kinda fruit juice. We also got fried bread, that was sweetend with sugar. After that the chief brought out like 10 different dishes of food. Me and Luanne started taking food, the men had to wait. (I guess it's an India tradition.) First they hadn't planned on serving us water, but when they saw how much I was sweating they gave me some water. Thanks!! (my eyes were running, luckally I wasn't wearing any makeup.) This morning Lhakba, sherpa, woke me at 6.30. We'de planned on going up on the Ice-fall. But when I looked outside it was a heavy snowstorm. So I went back to sleep and got up at 8.00. Really to bad for I was looking forward on climing on it. Well... maby next year. Tonight is my last night here on base camp. We're gonna have a fiesta! Good food, dessert, chocolate and a movie: "Memento". We've asked some people over, they're bringing chocolate!!! |
| Sunday 27 | |
 | Forth day at base camp. Picture: Erik, Luanne and Lhakba enjoying the sun and warm afternoon. Slept 12 hours last night, and I'm still tired. It was a beautiful morning, 20 degrees and sunny, but changed fast to 5 degrees and snow-rain around 2pm. We've had one patient today, but otherwise it's been a calm day. Many climers are coming down from camp 1, 2, 3 and 4, to base camp because of the bad storm that's arriving tonight. So we're expecting more patients. Last night there was a big avalanche not far from B.C. Luckally it didn't reach any tents or people. Today we saw a big avalanche, that didn't reach us. It was incredible seeing it, how powerful they really are, and beautiful! It's better than fireworks! I called home earlier today to sing for my mother, it's her birthday today, but I only got to "Happy Birthday to you..." and then I got out of breath. Today I've had difficulties breathing, just walking to breakfast from my tent was a hard workout. I checked how much oxygen I had in my blood, and it was normal. Somedays are better than others I guess. Workout at 4pm. Shall be interesting regarding my breathing difficulties. I might just do abs today, stomach, for I've lost a lot of my ab-muscles. My legs and rumper on the other hand are very muscular, from all the walking. Tonight we're planning on watching a movie with our dinner. We're having a Italian dinner. When treating an Italian climer we got, as a gift, 6 packages of Bruishetta ham. So tonight is a festive night! |
| Saturday 26 | |
 | Third day at Base camp. Picture: Base camp view from inside my tent. Today is another beautiful day! But we've heard that a bad storm is blowing in, and will arrive tomorrow. It's predicted to be a bad snowstorm that will delay all the expeditions. I'm hoping that the weather will be kind to me when trekking down. Today we're expecting 6 swedish climers, they're staying here for 2 nights. Me and Luanne are looking forward to meeting them, and hoping they're hunks with viking blood flowing in there vains. (Not much to look at up here, all the hunks are up climing...) Yesterday night, after a filling dinner, we got Luanne's computer working and watched a DVD. We watched the movie Shakespeare In Love, wonderful movie. During the movie we ate pears and snikers, yum! When not much to do here, no sick people to help, we usually exercise. Today we're bowling on the glacier, we're having so much fun! My dreams are getting more bisarr for every night. Last night I dreamed I was in my church directing my gospelchoir, when all of a sudden we started dancing to Rave music. The howl church was rocking! How weard isn't that?!? |
| This is me after 2 weeks in Nepal! | |
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| Friday 25 | |
 | Second day at base camp. It was very cold last night. It was so cold that my thermos, with warm water, froze. Also my pee-bottel, that was full, was frozen in the morning. I went to bed at 10 o'clock, and got up at 7.45. During the night you can hear the water under you, the glacier, running and also some stone-avalanches. Picture: the Ice-fall. I'm hoping to climb up a ways on it, though I'm a bit frightened because many people have died when trying to climb it. Most deaths happen on the Ice-fall, not on the summit, because the glacier is constantly in movement. So we'll see if I dare... Seeing butterflies and birds up here at base camp is nice, for it reminds me of the world down below. Today I took a shower... well I had a pail of warm water in the shower tent. My hair was so oily it felt like bubblegum. If brushing my hair upwards I could get my hair standing straight up, like a rooster. So it's nice having soft hair again! And now when it's clean, I can see that it's gotten bleached. I'm very blonde... I was at Everest Base Camp Internet Cafe today. Thank you all for writing in my guestbook! It was so nice reading your comments! Unfortunatelly I can only read your messages in my guestbook, sending is not possible for me. So write more, I get so happy!!! (I got tears in my eyes when reading all your comments. It's so nice hearing what you're all doing!) Today many expeditions left base camp for camp 2 and 3. So this morning the Ice-fall was full of hopeful climbers. I'm really enjoying base camp! This is a one in a lifetime thing and I'm enjoying every second of it! |
| Thursday 24 | |
 | Base Camp 5500 meters. Arrived around lunch, met Luanne Freer - doctor, and some pre-med students. The feeling seeing B.C. was wonderful! Never has a city of tents, on a glacier, looked so great! (That I was so tired and just wanted to fall over, and sleep, could also have something to do with it) Seeing Mount Everest top, so close, was amazing! I felt such peace and calmness looking at the Top Of The World. When resting against a stone I turned of my music, and just listened to the mountain and the glaciers. The mountain and glaciers actually sing, it's incredible hearing! At 4 pm all the people; Luanne, Erik, Hillary, Bill and me, exercised outside. We hade music, from small Sony speakers - Luanne's, and took stones and trained biceps, triceps and shoulders. Very much Flintstones! I felt like Wilma, except I'm way more muscular, and blond! After our workout we went in to the dinner-tent and drank hot chocolate and whiskey. I must say; whiskey warms you up more than hot chocolate. For dinner I've ordered tomato-pizza. I've never had pizza at 5500 meters. It's gonna be very interesting! I've just got information regarding going to the toilet. We're only allowed to poop (number 2) in the bucket in the toilet tent, not pee (number 1) because when the bucket gets emptied you pay by the kilograms. So I use my Frechette many times a day here. |
| Wednesday 23 | |
 | Gorakshep 5180 meters. I arrived here around lunch time. The walk was not fun today, for it's really hard breathing up here. You take 10 steps, then you're out of breath. I attached my Pringels on Bhadras pack, so when walking, if I get tired, I just look up and se them in front of me bouncing on the pack. My mouth watered so much today, looking at the chips, that I had to dry it many times. *slurp* I've had some very interesting conversations with Albanian people today when I arrived here. When meeting people from different places you get new perspective on things! Very interesting. Tomorrow we're headed for Base Camp, nice! Finally getting rid of this pelicase, I've got bruses on my back and my spine is very sore from carrying it. |
| Tuesday 22 | |
 | Second day in Loboche, 4930 meters. My head is not as thick as yesterday. I'm on my third thermos lemon tea. Slept really well last night! I had 3 blankets over my sleeping bag, so I was really warm. Last time I was that warm was in Namche Bazaar. Tomorrow we're leaving at 6.00. Last stop before Base Camp. I can actually see an end on this trip, which is nice but sad to. Some people from Los Angeles just arrived. Nice having someone to talk to! It easily gets lonely. I took a cat-wash today, for it was needed. (I smelled absolutely horrible) I got some warm water from the kitchen and washed by normal ritual, cat-wash, in my room. I looked myself in the mirror for the first time in 4 days. I look the same, except for my nose and forehead peeling. I'm going scrub my face and body when I get home, that's for sure! I love my boots, they are so sturdy! I'm so glad I bought a good pair of boots! Thank you dad! I've dreamed the weirdest things while here, at this altitude. The other night I dreamed I was an actor in a soap-opera. The other dreams are so weird that I'll keep them for myself. I feel like Tweedy Bird, my head feel's like it's the same size as his. But hopefully it'll be better tomorrow! Soon at Base Camp, YES!!! |
| Monday 21 | |
 | Loboche 4930 meters. This day was hard, because of my thick head. Yesterday, when arrived in Thukla, I started getting a slight headache, so I drank lots of lemon tea and ate a lot of garlic soup, which later on at night resulted in a very gasfilled stomach. (I had gas all night, so lightning a match was out of the question.) The walk is only 3 hours to Loboche, from Thukla, but it was hard. I had no energy, and my head was pounding all the way up. When walking today I listened to music from the Bond-movies which gave me a little energy, and of course started up my lively imagination. Breathing is more difficult now. Just turning over to the other side in your sleepingbag results in difficulties breathing. You have to move, and do stuff, much slower now. It's not a nice feeling when having difficulties breathing. I've always took breathing for granted, but after today I respect it more! And that's why I'm here, on this adventure: to not take anything for granted. I tell you; I've already got a new perspective on everyday things! I've not took a warm shower since in Namchi Bazaar, and that shower wasn't even warm, only tap warm. I will stay in Loboche for 2 days now, or until my headache disappeares. Weather: snowing and just around zero degrees. I miss Kathmandu- the summer warmth! Hopefully I can sleep tonight even though I have headache and feeling frozen. |
| Sunday 20 | |
 | Thukla 4620 meters. This morning I woke up freezing. It was -2 degrees in my room, and outside it was thundering and lightning + a snowstorm. Just my luck, typical. I got up and put on at least 7 layers of clothes, and ate my rise pudding, wearing a hat; cold head. We left Dingboche around 7.30, and arrived in Thukla around 11.00. The snowstorm let up after 1,5 hours, which I found nice! It was hard work trekking in snow, but fun. It was beautiful when the sun came out, reflecting on the snow. Me who loves snow had to of course feel it, and it didn't feel the same as the snow at home in Sweden. This felt like cotton candy, but the taste was the same as all snow. ( I had to see if it tasted like cotton candy) While trekking I always listen to music and today I listened to the soundtrack from the film " The fellowship of the ring". I felt like Frodo, a hobbit, carrying something very important to Base Camp, in the pelicase. I'm hoping to meet Gandalf the Grey with his wagon, so he can give me a lift to Base Camp! Today I've seen something incredible: two french people being carried in baskets by two small nepalieser. When they arrived, the french people were put in wheelchairs. Absolutely incredible seeing that they too can see the mountains, even though they can't use there legs! I'm starting to get a headache, so I'm forcing myself to drink water. The higher you get, the wearder you dream. I've dreamed the most bisarr dreams... Shall be interesting seeing what I'll dream tonight on this altitude! |
| Saturday 19 | |
 | Dingboche, 4200 meters. Today was a medium hard day. Got up at 5.45, ate breakfast at 6.30 and started walking at 7.00. The days are starting to get more alike, and it's hard keeping track of what day it is. After 2 hours of walking my head felt heavy and my nose started to ache. So we slowed down our pace and took many breaks, thank you! The wind was strong today so the sand blew up into my eyes, nose and mouth. I've got so much sand in my nose and lungs that I'll probably, when blowing my nose, be blowing sand for the nearest month. I also have sand in my mouth which has it's special taste! Today I've met all kinds of different people, and it's been very interesting. I've met a spanish team, an english man from Wales- radio guy, two american girls, many french people and a swiss couple. All are very nice people and it's interesting hearing why they are doing this, trekking that is. Many people are aiming for base camp, but they aren't staying as long as I will. Today is Easter Eve at home. Painting eggs, decorating the dinner table, CANDY!!! I miss candy, and the egg painting. The egg-hunt is one of my favorite things with easter, and of course the food! When it comes to painting eggs I can always take some round stones and use red Rodedendrom-flowers and yak-droppings, which results in a brown and red colored stone! But it's not the same as with eggs... Today I washed for the first time, which was needed for I smell like a yak! I borrowed a tin bowl from the guesthouse and walked over to the small, small river. Well river, it's about 0,4 meters wide... The water was freezing but I got my laundry washed and it's now drying. Temperature here: 15 degrees during the day, when sun, and just above zero at night. Later at night the clouds cover the village like thick milk, so I've now breathed clouds! Nice experience! Somebody is having a Bar-BQ...well it smells like it anyway, and it's driving me crazy. Tonight I will dream about an american Bar-BQ!! |
| Friday 18 | |
 | Afternoon Tengboche, 3867 meters. Today was a great day! Got up at 5.45, packed last minute stuff, and hade a wonderful breakfast at 6.20. Breakfast contained: muslii with fresh fruit and warm milk + one cup of ginger tea. An absolutely wonderful start on a long day! Because of my pack being 22 kilos and it nearly killing me the other day, Bahdra- my sherpa carried my pack today and left me with carrying the case for base camp, 10 kilos. Walking got all of a sudden so much more fun and more enjoyable. Weird how 12 kilos lighter can make such a positive difference! We left Namche Bazaar at 7.00 and arrived in Tengboche around 15.20. The place were we're staying is very simple but it works. I'm now sitting in the dining room drinking lemon tea and eating popcorn... yummi! When walking today I saw eagles flying over my head and in, and around, the valley. It was amazing seeing them so close and in there own habitat. It's so interesting seeing how they use the wind, and surfing on it with there wide big wings. After seeing them I decided what my next adventure will be: Paragliding in Australia. Earlier in Kathmandu I met an Australian police, at Fireclub, and I'm hoping he will show me Australia and Paragliding! But that's my next adventure, first I got to finish this one. When walking we met a lot of yaks, and something very interesting happened: a close encounter! One yak, very hairy and smelly, pushed me up against the mountain wall. The passes are very narrow, sometimes only half a meter, so you gotta be sure walking closest to the wall or you might be pushed down, by accident, by a yak. Instead of earmuffs tonight I'm sleeping with gloves and a nose warmer. ( Burned my fingers and nose) |
| Thursday 17 | |
 | Noontime. After a very long, long, long, long...walk yesterday I spent the last hours, before bed, in the dining room enjoying the fire and some Pringles chips and some lemon tea. While enjoying my snacks I talked to an Australian guy and a Swedish-Canadian girl. We speak Swedish, which is nice because I miss it a lot. Got interviewed by Swedish radio today. Nice having contact with the normal world outside, apart from my daily contact with my family. These 3440 meters, Namche Bazaar, are starting to show in my body. The blood is so much thicker up here, which results in heavy, hard breathing. I got to be careful with taking too big breaths, because caughing can occur. Today is a beautiful day, clear blue sky, with the sun shining and the snow reflecting from the mountains all around. The view has to be seen with own eyes and it's close to a spiritual experience! |
| Wednesday 16 | |
 | Dinnertime. Got up this morning at 6.30 full of energy, I slept all night. (Well part from running to the bathroom once; diarrhea) We started walking at 7.30, leaving Phakding behind us. The first few hours were nice and easy! My thoughts:"This isn't so bad. This will be a nice vacation!" So wrong I was. After a few hours I started getting really tired, and we hadn't even had lunch yet. I knew it was going to be hard, but not this hard. Met some Swedes today for the first time, since I arrived in Nepal. They saw how tired I was so they offered me some Swedish chocolate, which I love! My bag is way too heavy. All the other trekkers have small bags and many people stop and ask if I need any help with my bag. Of course I say NO, for I can do it myself! Also showing that girls can to, and are strong as well, has its ring! Short sum of today: This was the hardest, most difficult and horrible day ever. The feeling when your body says no and you anyway force it up the hill is indescribable. Today I pushed my strength almost to the limit. Luckily my body didn't put a full stop during the trek, for which I'm very thankful for. The sun gets stronger the higher up you go, and today I burned the top of my ears, which usually never happens. So when going to bed tonight it will feel like I have earmuffs on! |
| Tuesday 15 | |
 | Noontime. I just arrived to Phakding, I stay at Namaste Lodge. Didn't sleep anything last night in Lukla, and got up at 6.30. Feeling like I'm gonna throw up I tryed eating my breakfast: pancake with honey & lemon te. We, me & my sherpa Bhadra, started walking at 8.00. We walked in a normal speed, and my pack just seemed to get heavier for each step I took. My pack is around 23 kg. I've noticed that the breathing is heavier and I'm starting to feel these 2600 meters in my body. My puls is faster and I get easy tired. While walking I listen to my MD, mini disc, which makes it a lot easier. While walking you have a lot of time to think. I often, every 5 min, ask myself WHY I am doing this. I think often of my family, wondering what they are doing. I miss them so much, and I'll enjoy coming home after this adventure. The view is absolutelly wonderful, mountains surround the valleys. I now understand why so many people go trekking in these regions; the beauty is undescribable and has to be seen with own eyes. I'm so thankful that I've been given this chance! |
| Monday 14 | |
 | I'm now in Lukla, arrived at 9.00. So tired, been up since 4.00, so I took a nap for 2 hours. I had mushroom soup for lunch, very good! It has started to rain now and the temperature is around 12 degrees. Just now it started to snow and hail, so I think I'm going to hit the sack! We are, my sherpa and I, leaving tomorrow morning at 8. Then the long journey starts! Miss my family a lot, it's very lonely and quiet. Looking forward to sleep in my bed at home in Sweden. Also miss my rabbit. Well, time to get some rest, so that I will manage tomorrow. |
| Sunday 13 | |
 | 15.00 on the balcony . Today I've packed my bag for the trekking. I leave for Lukla tomorrow morning at 05.45. The plane leaves at 07.00. A bit early I must say when I have to get up at...usch...04.00. Well, it's certainly a different kind of vacation. But I'm really looking forward to the trekking. Yesterday night my friend Santos, Nepalese- that's him on the picture, took me to a real genuine Nepalese restaurant. The food reminded me a lot of India food where rice is always included. While enjoying the good food there was live music where 2 girls sang and 3 guys played different instruments. Also the music reminded me of India. Afterwards we walked to a place called Tom & Jerry's, a pub and pool playing. After a couple games of pool we walked to Fire Club/ danceplace. There I met some Danish people, very nice and friendly people! The sun is very strong here; I've already burned my shoulders. I hope the burn settles down before starting to trekk. My pack weighs 21 kilos. |
| Saturday 12 | |
 | Noontime. My first sightseeing with Mickel as my guide. To get to the Monkey palace, a buddist-stupa, you can walk, 30 minutes, but we took his motorcycle, 15 minutes. Monkeys all over and I saw a few monks too. The palace is around 80 meters above Kathmandu valley, where Buddha is watching over everybody! The view is amazing where you see over the whole valley. It's a very holy place where many go to pray, and I felt very privileged for being allowed in there. This city, Kathmandu, is a very special place and I'm really enjoying it! This is a lifetime experience and I will probably return to Kathmandu someday! For the moment I'm sitting on the balcony-rooftop on Highlander-guest-house/ that's where I live. The sun is shining and I hear all the noise from the town below, and it's wonderful! The honking cars, people talking, whistles, birds singing. It's wonderful! Tonight I'm going to meet my Sherpa for the first time. W'e are going to go through the trip to Loukla, and trekking. Time for lunch! love Kristina |
| In Kathmandu | |
 | Finally I'm in Kathmandu. 30 degrees. I'm on the roof with a wonderful view over Monkeytempel.
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| Angel | |
| Angel at homejust before leaving for the airport.
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| Contact 2.0 training | |
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