Slide Show

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Dispatches: April
Dispatches: March
Dispatches: Feb


Feb 29, 04 - Let's get on with the show!

Almost a week of waiting here in Khatanga. We've been told this is normal, though this years delays are unique to Cerpolex and their operation. Tomorrow could be the day, and we are all hoping we will fly to Sredny on Monday.

Today I will repack my gear and again look for ways to reduce the weight of my equipment without sacrificing its function or reliability. Zippers and mosquito netting are cut out of tents, straps are cut-off or shortened, cord-locks are removed - everything in an effort to reduce weight. Not having to pull as much weight means I can move faster on the ice, and consume less food to produce the energy needed on the ice. If I can reduce the total weight of my equipment without reducing food or fuel I will do better going solo to the pole.

Today as part of my activities I tested trip flares with Ben Saunders and Martin Hartley. They seem to be effective and we modified them to work better in the arctic.

After that I went to the Tamir regional cultural museum. The curator, an older native lady gave me a personal tour. It was interesting to see the similarities and differences between the native peoples of Siberia and North America.

As I was heading back into the hotel I met with Val (Ben's girlfriend), and Saska, and we went to visit the studio of the Mammoth ivory carver. I bought a small figurine, a spiritual man native to the people of Tamir, this region we are in.

Right now we are waiting to find out if we need to load the pulka's and gear into the helicopters tonight. I'd like to know as I'm hungry and want to try one of the two restaurants in the village.




Feb 28, 04 - Khatanga-wanga



So, last night after dinner Bernard of Cerpolex, gave us the good news and the bad news, which after reversing their order was hard to distinguish which was which. The end result being that we would be flying to Sredny on Monday, with a possible drop onto the ice on Tuesday for Ben Saunders and myself.

With the news Bernard encouraged us to relax, sleep in, and prepare to leave on Monday morning. After a short rest in the room, we were invited by one of the locals to go to the only bar in town. The entire entourage followed our newly appointed entertainment director to a small restaurant/bar.

With plenty of dancing all of us seemed to have a good time. Walking back to the hotel the aurora lights were the best I've seen yet. Vivid colors of green and white danced and shimmered across the as if knowing their celestial beauty was meant just for us. The aurora lights have a very calming effect on me, whenever I see them I feel peaceful inside.

And up until last night I had managed to avoid it.

Today was a quiet day with everyone sleeping in and missing breakfast. We all managed to make it to lunch at 2pm. Tomorrow will likely be another restful day, with some photography and perhaps a quick visit to the local museum.

The only other developments are that my Russian is improving, as is my British accent, since I tend to spend a fair amount of time with with Ben Saunders and his team (Val, Tony, Martin, and Robbie and Dan who left this morning).





Feb 27, 04 - Sredny? Stand-by...

It seems that politics are the star in this years arctic expedition drama. There are competing companies all vying for the mighty dollar, and at the moment all clients of Cerpolex (myself and all the expeditions here in Khatanga) are paying the price - time. This morning we were informed that though we finally have air traffic clearance, and clearance for the helicopters themselves, the pilots don't want to work weekends. Which means it's likely that it will be Monday before we are able to fly to Sredny.

For those of you that are just tuning in, a solo expedition to the North Pole takes around 60 days. The ice station Borneo, where we can get flights from the pole to land, will close promptly on May 1st.

This means that each day wasted waiting to start the expedition steals valuable time and lessens the chances to make a successful trek to the pole. Delays also mean more ice melt and more open water making conditions more dangerous and decreasing travel speed towards the pole.

I received a disturbing email from Polus, the group Now running Borneo ice station. In the email it stated that Cerpolex (my expedition travel company) will not be serviced at Borneo this year. We've been assured by Cerpolex that we'll have emergency support and pick-up/fly-out from the pole. But as they say in Siberia, nothing is for certain.

During the day I was supposed to be transported out to the frozen river for photos with my sledge but it didn't happen. Instead I walked out to the river and walked back with Ben Saunders and his photographer. We took a pic together out on the ice, with the temperature below -42C (-40F).

At dinner tonight we were told that we will fly on Monday, with the possibility of being dropped onto the ice on Tuesday. Eventually I will get to start my expedition, but for the weekend I'll be here in Khatanga.

Image: Martin Hartley.com





Feb 26, 04 - Let's Fly!

It's Thursday and I had been preparing to have been dropped onto the ice yesterday. There were some political issues causing delay, but we learned a short while ago that we will be flying to Sredny tomorrow. We will be at Sredny for a day or two and then be flown out to Cape Arctichevsky for the expedition start. This will likely occur on Sunday or Monday, barring any more delays or bad weather.

This morning I took a walk around the 'town' of Khatanga. Believe it or not there are 14 small stores in this tiny village. At many of the apartment buildings people hang their food outside their windows; freezer au natural. The entire village gets its power and water from the same source; and they burn coal and fuel to keep the village alive. The number of people living here has dwindled to around 3,000, down from 4,500 ten years ago.

Us polar explorers got together and talked while one person (Bettina's boyfriend -Jean) filmed us for the movie he is making. We talked about our dreams to go to the North Pole, and things like that.

It's been good to spend time with the other explorers and we have all shared and learned from each other. What one person doesn't have someone else usually does, and I believe each of us wants to see the other succeed in their own quest for the pole.

We've been told we will fly to Sredny tomorrow- finally. But as it goes in Siberia, nothing is ever a 'sure thing'. But I think we will leave in the morning. I've seen the town and even the three-legged dog so it must be time to go. With a little luck my next dispatch will from Sredny and I can tell (and maybe show) you about the polar bears.




Feb. 25, 04 - On standby in Khatanga

No flight today, I'm not sure if we are waiting for weather or one of two flight permits. So another day in the thriving metropolis of Khatanga.

Today I have been promised I'd get to see the "Mammuhus", Cerpolex's storehouse of Mammoth artifacts. Sadly it was robbed recently and the owners haven't wanted to stomach determining their actual loss.

It's colder today, and the thermometer in my window alcove reads -20c inside , and it's -40f outside. I tell myself that it's not cold, though it will be considerably colder out on the ice. I enjoy the relative warmth of the hotel, but each day not on the ice increases the 'drama factor' and lessens my chances of reaching the pole in time before they close the ice station.

Some of the expeditions went down to the river and took promo shots. I'm the only completely solo expedition here, everyone else have camera crews and support teams. It's okay, I manage by myself, but is a little more challenging to take pictures and video of myself.

Lastnight we saw the aurora lights, with colors of red, white, and a ghostly green. I was unable to take a picture, but have a nice memory of it in my mind.

Soon it will be lunch, and meals have become the highlight of my day. I don't think I've gained any additional weight, but haven't lost any either. I gained the most amount of weight for this expedition over the other explorers , coming in at 50lbs of gain. Ben Saunders gained around 38lbs, and the others not as much. It will be interesting to see how us explorers look at the end of our respective journeys.

In the picture I am holding a smaller tusk from a Mammoth, millions of years old! Though going to the North Pole is one kind of history, being among the remains of these giants was truly to stand beside history.

Signing off from chilly Khatanga - Wave.







Feb, 23, 04 - Khatanga calling

Well, here I am in Khatanga, the staging place for North Pole expeditions going from the Russian side. I flew up here with a group of about 20; expedition logistics personnel, several other expeditions, and some French and British film crews. After nearly a full day of travel we arrived to a balmy -33c evening with the aurora lights easily visible.

The other expeditions include; Ben Saunders, whom will attempt to be the first to cross the Arctic solo and unsupported, Frederick, a Frenchman that will attempt the pole also solo and unsupported, Bettina Aller and her boyfriend that will go with resupply, and Dominique Arduin whom was already here and will go solo and with resupply.

We've spent a full day preparing our gear and will do the same for Tuesday. The plan is to leave for Sredny on Wednesday morning by helicopter and hopefully be dropped off that day. My own preparations have been going well and I feel prepared for my coming two-month task of reaching the pole, solo and unsupported.

It has been interesting and beneficial to see the other expeditions gear, and we all share tips and tricks. I'm the newcomer to this polar club, yet my research and preparations mean even I've had valuable insights to share. I've enjoyed the sharing and friendship, but soon that will end as each team is dropped onto the pack ice or starts on the shore of Cape Arctichevsky.

Tuesday I'll buy My butter and oil, prepare and pack my sleds, and ready myself for two months of self-imposed exile and perilous discomfort.




Two weeks till Moscow

The days are dissapearing as the time to leave for my solo expedition draws near. There's still much to do but I believe I'll be ready to tackle my two month journey to the pole.
Right now I'm testing a new iPAQ, making sure it will allow me to update my website while out on the ice. So far, so good.




Back from Alaska

Tested everything, much to do! More reports soon.


Jan. 17, 2004 - Arctic Training

Well, here I am out on the frozen arctic ice, near Barrow, Alaska. It's about -30F outside and a good wind is blowing, dropping the temp down to -60F.

Nestled in my sleeping bag I try to make sense of my decision to go solo to the north pole. It's cold outside (and inside of my tent). Hoar frost covers everything and my sleeping bag is cramped with all of the electronics and water bottles keeping me company (and to keep from freezing). I'm not complaining and I know my upcoming expedition to the north pole will be filled with discomfort and sacrifice.

Preparing for such adventure takes a lot of time, funds, and most of all personal commitment. But I am committed and for me there's no alternative.

Then of course there's dealing with unexpected issues. In my case, my stove pump wouldn't work, even after several attempts to fix it. Unfortunately I only brought one pump for this training trip, but learned many valuable lessons.

My water is almost gone so I'll head back to the Village and try and procure another pump, but at least I can continue to test and train with other equipment.

Signing off from the dark north and a chilly tent - Wave