Slide Show

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Dispatches: April
Dispatches: March
Dispatches: Feb


Mar 31, 04 - It's a bird, it's a plane, no, it's flying sledges!

Today the ice conditions were the worst I've encountered to date. The presented ridges were massive, and there were many of them. not a lot of large pans, but plenty of frozen leads and lots of jumbled pack ice.

The sun was out in a clear sky most of the day, but the wind was relentless. At times the gusts were almost strong enough to knock me down. My 300lb sledges were often blown off course. There was a huge sundog, a double sundog in fact, visible most of the day. For the teachers and students following along, find out what a sundog is and why they occur.

Each step towards the pole is a mini-victory in itself. My body aches from head to toe. And my sledges squeal and groan as though they too object to the physical abuse bestowed upon them.

I did get a chuckle and some amazement going through a large pressure ridge. Large and tall blocks of jagged and glassy ice meant that there was going to be a substantial drop-off where the sledges would be rocketing down the other side.

I carefully and forcefully dragged my sledges through the 'opening' in the pressure ridge. As I came to the drop-off on the other side I tried to ease the sledges down a slick ramp of ice and onto a frozen lead. This made me a bit nervous as it was high to the lead and is how I put my leg into the ocean the first time.

As gently as I could, I lowered the sledges towards the lead, some 7 feet below. The first, and heavier/larger sledge landed fairly well with a mighty thud. But this caused a reaction from the smaller sledge I wasn't expecting. The second smaller lighter sledge rocketed off the ice ramp, becoming perfectly airborne, clearing the other blocks of ice and landing right at my feet! That surprised me, and also made me laugh.

At the end of the day the high winds made setting up my tent difficult, and it took me much longer. With the tent up, I boiled water for my dinners (beef stroganoff and beef enchiladas), ate dinner, and crawled into my icy sleeping bag. I fell fast asleep, only to awake now to take a pee and file my update. Goodnight.








Mar 30, 04 - Less than 400 miles to go. Ugh.

Another Tuesday at the office, or as I've come to call it the 'arfice' (arctic=office). It would feel better if all the hard work I do every day yielded better results. I put out 100%, but often the results (in mileage) don't reflect the effort. I've never worked so hard, both physically and mentally, as I have this trek. I only found out it's considered the hardest expedition in the world a few weeks ago.

I left from the Russian side for the pole because the pressure ridges are supposed to be smaller, and there's supposed to be positive ice drift. So far neither are true. I heard that Bettina, who has several expeditions under her belt, wanted to give up because the ice is so bad. They've got light sledges and are barely 40 miles ahead. They should be more like 150 miles ahead of me.

But I keep hoping that somehow I'll be lucky, get better ice, good positive drift, and reach the pole before they close Borneo ice station on May 3rd.

The wind over the last day or so sculpted the fresh snow. Mostly it looks like sand patterns at the beach or desert. Pulling the sledges, it felt like I was pulling them over a cheese grater - lots of resistance. But I keep plugging along.

At one point today I tried to make a mental list of all of my body ailments. I lost count. In the evenings I tell myself that I'll try harder the next day, but each day I'm putting out my maximum energy.

While pulling I often force myself to smile. Smiling releases endorphins and other chemicals in the body and brain that help keep you healthy and feeling good.

This morning I felt like I had been run over by a truck. I take ibuprofen and/or aspirin and that helps, but it's always so hard to get going, usually it takes a couple of hours to feel stronger.

The sun was out and there was a clear sky, that makes me feel better and eases navigation. I went through the largest pressure ridges I have seen yet.

Today they were supposed to search for Dominique. I think it would've been a recovery and not a rescue. I haven't gotten hews back yet. I like to think that she's happy, pulling her sledge and kayak, smiling, and enjoying the sun.










Mar 29, 04 - One year ago today

Today is a special day, of sorts, for me. It was exactly one year ago I decided to go to the North Pole.

I hadn't done anything 'major' since I rode my bicycle solo across America in 2000. I had been surfing the web, checking out interesting and unusual adventures. I found a site that offered skydiving at the North Pole. I'm a skydiver and I thought that might be really neat. But it seemed too 'easy'.

Then I read about guided tours of 'the last degree'. It takes one week, 60 miles, and you don't need to be in tip-top shape. Still too easy.

Then I found that people go all the way from land to the pole! The instant I saw that, I knew that it was the perfect challenge for me. I didn't say anything to anyone, and let the idea rumble around my brain for a little while.

After a short weekend getaway, I went back online to research how feasible my idea might be. I searched for every site that had anything to do with explorers and the North Pole. I started contacting others that had done or attempted the trek and asked for advice.

I found major obstacles, mostly the expense involved, but continued to learn how others had done it. Within a few days I started making my idea known to others. I checked out books about other expeditions, marketing, and publicity from the library. Spent many hours online researching, planning, and learning.

And now, I lay in my sleeping bag, out on the frozen arctic ocean. I've already accomplished most of my goal and I feel I've achieved a good deal of success. Of course I want to reach the North Pole, but even if I don't, I've achieved a lot and am satisfied to have made it this far.

Today, I've also been pinned-down by high winds, some snow, and white-out. I don't mind moving in such conditions, but putting up the tent can be a huge problem. Huge problems out here can mean loosing toes, fingers, or even one's own life.

I know the clock is ticking, and I feel more pressure every day. I try to stay positive and focused on my goal. I keep hoping for normal positive ice drift, normal weather, and normal ice conditions.

I may have shared this already, but visitors to my site have asked if I get scared. Of course I do! I'm probably not the bravest person you could meet, but the important thing I don't let fear stop me. It's healthy and natural to be afraid, but I try to turn my fear into strength and help carry me forward. It's okay to be afraid, just don't let it stop you from reaching for your own goals.









Mar 28, 04 - Bring your swimsuit

I just finished reading some of the comments you visitors to my site have been leaving. I can't read them directly but they are kindly forwarded to me by my publicist, Tim Cox at Zing Public Relations. I really appreciate the positive feedback, and they help make days like today much better.

You probably are getting tired of reading that today was a hard day. Everyday is hard here, with some harder than others. I've also gotten some requests for more details about my day so I'll try and relate to you a 'typical' day on my trek to the North Pole.

I typically wake up at 2:30am, pee (while lying down, on my side into a special pee bottle). If it's a cold night I sleep with the warm bottle, otherwise carefully pour it out. Back to sleep, or rather try, until 5:30-7:00am, when I crawl out of my warm bag and face the frosty morning.

I put on my down jacket, though it's hard because it is frozen with ice inside. I usually have to bend it into shape to put it on. I slip on some insulated pants and down booties and fill my pot with snow and ice.

I start the stove, warm my hands for a moment, then put the pot on to melt snow and ice into water. I also go to the 'toilet', by digging a hole in the ice/snow and going as quickly as possible - this is known as the hardest maneuver in the arctic - the polar poo.

Once that's done the water is close to boiling and I prepare my breakfast, usually oatmeal, and lunch in my thermos (usually top ramen noodles with meat added).

After breakfast I pack everything up, and turn the stove on to warm my feet before I put them in my ice-laden boots.

With boots on, I start putting things into the sledges. The last thing I do is take down the tent. Then I put on my pulling harness, put on my skis, and find 'north' and start my long day of pulling my 300lbs of sledges towards the north pole.

I stop for food/drink about every hour or so. It's important to keep nourished and hydrated. I watch the sun/shadows and time to navigate towards north.

Today I encountered many dangerous leads, with thin ice or no ice at all. I also had to swim today. Of course there were plenty of pressure ridges, some jumbled pack ice, and some pans.

Lately I've been getting started at 8 to 8:30am, and stop around 5pm. Today I stopped near 4:30pm, I just didn't have much energy and nearly being dragged into the ocean by my sledge wore me out.

Once it's determined time to make camp, I look for a place to pitch my tent. Put on my down jacket and pants, pitch the tent, and unload everything I need for the evening. Typically this includes stove, fuel, sleeping bag and pads, electronics, cook kit, and thermos'. I setup everything inside the tent, boil water, make my dinner, eat any left-over food from the day, and then crawl into my sleeping bag.

I hook up my PDA to my satellite phone, write my daily update, transfer pics from my camera to my PDA, then send in my report. I go to sleep anywhere from 9pm - 1am. Sometimes I have to stay up late to give tv or newspaper/magazine interviews.

Then I do it all over again! That's a fairly typical day for me. Every few days I repair equipment, or write a song, call a loved one or friend, and send out short emails. Sound like fun?!


Mar 27, 04 - No more snow, please

Not too bad for a Saturday. I started off the day with it snowing and a white-out. So far, it has snowed half of the average yearly total in the last three weeks. Ordinarily I would be happy for fresh snow, but not during an expedition to the north pole. It covers dangerous sections, and makes it much harder to pull the sledges.

By around noon it stopped snowing, the clouds receded and the sun appeared! It was very up-lifting to see the sun. Navigation becomes much easier, and it got warmer.

It got so warm today that I took off my sweater and skied in my thermal fleece underwear top. I had to open the sides of my pants to let in cool air. It got to about -15c, similar to a cold day at a ski resort, and tropical feeling here in the arctic.

I crossed many leads. Most were easy, though one had thin ice and was too wide to jump. So I pushed my large sledge into the lead to act like a bridge and skied across the top.

That was exciting. About half way across I got a little tripped up with my skis and nearly fell in the lead. The sledge had already broken the thin ice and was sitting low near the water. The sledge was tipsy, and I regained my balance, only to catch the tip of my ski on the edge of the lead as I neared the other side.

Again I fought hard to regain my balance, and un-hook my ski tip while standing on my rocking sledge. I knew that if I fell, I would surely be completely immersed in the ocean.

Finally, having kept my balance I was able to free my ski and cross over onto solid ice. Whew! That was exciting, and my pulse was beating pretty fast. The rest of the day was filled with more leads, pressure ridges, and some good-sized pans.

After several hours of sun a strange mist/fog enveloped the sky and obscured the sun. I skied until 5pm, and then setup camp. By the time I finished setting up camp the arctic fog had lifted.

At least I skied nearly 8 miles, a pretty good day. Now, if the ice drift, weather, and ice conditions cooperate I might just make it to the pole.


Mar 26, 04 - The Arctic as unusual

This has been anything but a normal polar season. The weather, likely a fatality, nothing really 'normal' this year. Of course it would have to be like that the year I decide to go to the pole.

It continued to snow last night, dropping almost another inch and a half of fluffy, powdery snow. I've experienced a lot of snowfall in the last three weeks for a place that's supposed to be an 'arctic desert'.

It was a white-out day with low visibility. It was like skiing in a Twighlight Zone movie. You couldn't see the ground, and so you never knew if you were going to go up a small bump or ridge, or down one. Surprisingly I didn't fall too many times.

I crossed many leads, some with solid ice, many with open water or thin ice. Several dangerous leads had thin ice, which barely supported my weight on skis if I moved fast, and the sledges broke through and were floating in the sea water.

Made it back to 83 degrees, again. Normally the ice is drifting 5-16 miles a day towards the north pole. Not this year. I've probably only drifted a total of 17 miles north, but at least 45 miles south. And lots of miles to the east, very strange and unusual.

in the evening it was continuing to snow, which it had been doing all day. It was warmer, in fact warm enough that I striped down naked and changed my underwear! Ah the joys of fresh socks and underwear.






Mar 25, 04 - today marks three weeks!

Ah the joys of polar living. Each day, I consider myself going to my polar office, putting in a full day's work, and then getting to relax by setting up the tent, heating water, eating, and crawling into a frozen sleeping bag.

Today was a 'rest day', due to a mild storm and white-out conditions. I couldn't determine the ground from the sky, and fell down three times just trying to walk 80 yards to see if I could see anything. I couldn't see anything. Being more cautious than adventurous I decided to stay put and start early in the morning.

Unfortunately I've also been drifting a bit south, and a lot east. This is very strange as the wind has been blowing from the south, which means I should be drifting north. I've also drifted back to 82 degrees. Darn!

No day would be complete without another lead opening up near the tent, and last night was no exception. This one opened about 50 yards from my tent, and even started building a pressure ridge.

Today it's been like sitting in mild earthquakes all day long. Reminds me of being back in California, though we don't have quakes so often. I'm on a good-sized piece of ice, so for it to jostle around like it has been means there are some powerful forces at work.

This morning I carefully examined my feet. I got a bit of frostnip on several toes from my dip in the ocean yesterday, but I should be alright. I removed probably a pound of ice from inside my boot. I've been getting the full polar treatment.

Dominique continues to weigh heavily on my mind, as I'm sure it is on the other remaining explorers. I try not to think of her, but do most every hour. There is a lot of controversy and speculation as to what has happened to her, and what could be done if she's still out there waiting for a rescue. It's a tragic and difficult situation.

On a lighter note, I've managed to write/compose five songs so far. All are centered around being in this polar region, and I intend to compose and record a complete CD from my experience here. Some of the video I'm shooting will be used to create several music videos to accompany the CD.

Wherever you are, I hope you are warmer and more comfortable than I am! I'm glad to be here but look forward to enjoying the simple comforts again.

Oh, by the way, Jack Foster of No. Calif. Your quote you left on my site has made several of us polar explorers laugh and smile. Thanks!













Mar 24, 04 - Rock and Roll

Today was a bit exciting, perhaps more than I would have preferred. Last night I heard several big bangs and cracks, a couple of times the tent even shook. When I started skiing this morning I found a lead had opened up about 75 yards away from my tent.

I finished skiing to end of the large pan I started on yesterday. It wasn't too long before I reached 83 degrees! Finally! I didn't drift North at all last night, in fact drifted half a mile south. And I've been drifting many miles east and west.

A few more pans and pressure ridges, along with a couple of leads, and I came to an area where many large pressure ridges and leads were converging.

After crossing one lead I came to a larger one, with open water, some ice blocks, and a tall pressure ridge on one side. There was no way around it so down into the lead I went. Half way through I got my second dose of Arctic sea, and put my left leg into the ocean, up to my thigh.

My first thought was annoyance, then to get my leg out quickly. I ran for snow and quickly began rubbing snow all over my wet leg and boot. I had gotten more wet this time, and could feel cold water greeting my toes. My second thought was wondering how bad this might become. I decided to press on and push the water and moisture from my boot and pants by work heat/pressure.

Though cold, stiff, and a bit heavier, I figured my foot would be okay. I finished getting my sledges through the lead only to encounter more leads, nearly all with portions of open water.

It seems as though the ice could feel my presence, and was unhappy about it. The ice all around me started making lots of noise and soon there were many large blocks of ice in full motion.

At one point all the ice around me was in motion, and to some it may have seemed as though my world was falling apart. Of course, I thought it would be a good time to relieve my self, while large blocks of ice were falling and heaving just a few yards away.

Once relieved I decided I had better not hang around and got myself and sledges into action. As I began to cross more leads, it seemed the ice was speeding up. Several times I and the sledges crossed over moving and grinding ice only to see our 'path' disappear right behind me. It was like being at an amusement park and regretting the choice of rides.

I crossed about a dozen of the leads and made my way to a larger pan and solid ice. Whew, that was an exciting several hours.

Both feet/legs have now been christened in the sea, and I was rocking and rolling on ice. Enough excitement for one day.

I did want to part by saying thank you for your comments on my website. I'm glad that I'm having a positive impact on others and helping inspire people. I truly appreciate the feedback and am glad some of you are enjoying reading about my adventure to the North Pole.





Mar 23, 04 - Sundogs and enchildadas

Ah, finally, some large pans. Though not completely flat and smooth, a big improvement over the last several days. Also, the fresh snow had frozen a bit, offering less resistance and should continue to improve daily.

Got a late start, but the weather was nice, the wind changed to a favorable direction, and made a few miles today. I'm just about a mile from 83 degrees! With a little luck I should drift into the next latitude by the morning.

Besides some large pans, there were plenty of pressure ridges, some looking as though they'd like to eat my sledges. I managed to get through them and only fell on my face once today, an improvement. Seems a polar expedition is a contact sport.

It's still cold, about -35c, but felt hot. In fact, for many of the last days (except yesterday) I ski most of the time wearing just a sweater and pants with thermal underwear on underneath. Sometimes I get so hot I have to take off my hat, no joke.

I continue to eat tasty meals, tonight's dinner was cheese enchiladas with strawberry shortcake. I'll cook up some scrambled eggs, sausage, and bacon for breakfast. I'm not suffering in the food department....

Each day my desire to reach the pole increases. Yesterday I got fairly beat-up, both mentally and physically. Today was a nice change from that. I've still got a long way to go, but I know that each day brings me closer to my goal.

Today saw more sundogs, the 'rainbow' of the Arctic. They always help improve my spirit. I haven't seen the aurora lights since Khatanga. Being stuck in Siberia is thankfully a distant memory.

Sorry no picture yesterday, I was having some technical difficulties. Everything is sorted out now.

Signing off from the comfort of my damp and chilly sleeping bag. Wave








Mar 22, 04 - 82 just won't let go

I should've known better. When I woke up this morning the sun was out and the sky was clear, though the wind had reversed 180 degrees. Which means I got to work with wind hitting me directly in the face, and robbing me of hard earned miles.

To date, the most mileage I've done in one day was while lying in my tent waiting out a storm! Those 'free' 10+ miles I've now paid for several times over.

It was a very hard day with little to show for the immense amount of energy expended. It snowed last night, which made it warmer, but also made pulling the sledges like pulling in glue.

Funny, it snows on average less than 10 inches a year up here. I've already had 35%+ of the yearly total in just over two weeks.

It was also hard work as I had pulled/tore a shoulder muscle last night. Sleeping was painful, and I didn't get much of it. When I got up this morning I checked my GPS only to find I had been blown back 2 miles.

Of course my day wouldn't have been complete without falling on my face several times. It's especially fun on glassy and sharp-edged ice covered by fresh snow.

Needless to say, I wasn't a happy camper today. I got a bit of frostnip on my nose, but not like the frostbite on my finger. The wind was searing, turning a pleasant -25c into a painful -50c. I had icicles 3 inches long hanging off my chin and nose.

But don't despair, I'm not. Even with all the 'little' problems, mileage lost, injured body parts, and rough terrain, I'm more determined than ever to reach the pole.

And yes, some might say I'm a little bit crazy, like my friends at Reeds Sport Shop (have concluded/knew). The words 'perseverance' and 'determination' are often in my mind. I hope that I will not only inspire you, but also encourage you to take action in your own life. You've got one life to live, make the most of it. Or as I like to say "It's a delicious world out there, take a big bite!"









Mar 21, 04 - Ground Hog day is over - I hope

Have you seen the movie "Ground Hog Day", where Bill Murray keeps reliving the same day over and over? It's been somewhat like that for me for the last four days, though finally today was a bit different.

More pack ice today, but more pans too. Pans are the best, little or no obstacles and 'hills' of snowdrift. Did encounter a hungry lead that threatened to eat both my sledges but managed to get them out - not without some souvenir bruises to show for my efforts.

The weather was strange, and in fact at this very moment it's snowing - again. The day started off clear, then clouds came in quickly and obscured the sun, making navigation difficult. They cleared and the sky was a brilliant deep blue. Then more clouds, some snow, more clearing skies, more clouds and snow. All this in one day.

At least the wind was blowing from the southwest, which means I'm drifting northeast - towards the pole. I'm a little more east than I need to be but it's okay because eventually I'll start to drift west.

Often on a Sunday morning I would be enjoying a relaxing brunch of fresh bagels, lox (smoked salmon), and cream cheese with a generous glass of orange juice. I let this thought fill my head most of the day and it made me happier. Also, the extra padding on my harness helped a lot. And for the first time my sledges felt slightly lighter.

Lately I've been making equipment repairs almost nightly. The cold takes it toll on just about everything. Tonight I repaired more electrical cables and sewed some tears in my outer-gloves.

I'm getting close to finally being out of the 82 degree latitude, about 6 miles away from 83! I'm still on track to reach the pole!!

If you notice in the picture, you can see the right-hand side of a 'sundog', which I got to see for several hours today.







Mar 20, 04 - Oh yeah, I'm the sled dog

Whew! Another very hard day with little mileage. Today was again filled with lots of pack ice and countless pressure ridges. Only crossed a couple of frozen leads and zigzagged East and West a bit to avoid severe rubble fields. And, as has happened the last several days, ended the day with a couple of relatively flat pans.

Sources scouring satellite images claim I'm almost past the worst of the ice. And Bettina has been reporting large pans ahead (she and Jean-Gabriel are 20+ miles in front of me). I'll certainly be happy to be out of the twisted piles of ice boulders and mounds. It's extremely draining physically and wears a person down mentally.

Tonight when I crawled into my sleeping bag I fell fast asleep. Normally I'm awake enough to write my dispatch, but not this evening. It's now 2:30am so I'm going to keep this report brief.

I'm hoping for a better Sunday and to make some mileage. It seems the 82nd degree (of latitude) doesn't want to let me go just yet. I have just over 12 nautical miles until the next degree.

With sore hips pulling definitely wasn't so fun today. I modified my harness by cutting up part of one of my sleeping pads to add more cushion.

And most of the day I kept thinking of a nice hotel room awaiting my finish. With clean clothes, a hot shower and fresh cooked food. I hope you have been enjoying your Saturday....





Mar 19, 04 - The Arctic is on the move

The Arctic is getting noisy. With the longer sun hours, things are starting to move, and when the ice moves, it makes noise.

Today was the hardest day yet. Large pressure ridges, pack ice, and very little in the way of flat pans. By the way, if you're not sure of some of the ice terminology I use, go to my major sponsors website and I think the ice terms are there; www.worldwidelearn.com/northpole/

At one point the ice looked as if I was walking into a white-washed Indiana Jones Temple of Doom set. Large boulders of ice glowered at me, and at times escape looked impossible. But I persevered.

I have a lot of time to think when I'm pulling the sledges. I think about family and friends. My special friends Yoko and Gel gave me small charms to help keep me safe. I think about my friends like Antoni and his family. The many school kids following me, like Miss Jonas', Ms. Uhren, and Ms. Westlake's classes. But most of all, when it's really tough I find myself thinking about sushi! Strange, I know.

During a pulling break the ice got really noisy. All of a sudden it sounded as if a waterfall had opened up, yet there was no water falling. Another time while I was crossing a frozen lead it started to moan, crack, and boom. It made me a bit nervous.

I ended the day with a nice sunset, though not many miles were covered today. Also thoughts of Dominique filled my head and heart, for it appears she is missing in action. My sympathy goes out to her family and friends.

Some readers have asked if I will write a book about my journey; absolutely. I hope that you will ad it when it is published and I will be able to touch your mind and soul and inspire greatness in you.







Mar 18, 04 - Two weeks!

Two weeks! I've lasted two weeks out here! I know to some people they think two weeks is nothing, out here it's an entire lifetime. They say if you last two weeks out here you have a very good chance if making. I plan to do just that! Make it to the North Pole.

Today was an interesting day. I put my leg into the water, and saw the rescue helicopter fly nearby. The terrain was mixed, a few large pans, some thin-ice leads, and plenty of jumbled pack ice.

I did happen to find a nicely frozen lead and cut-off about 2-3 hours worth of sledging through rough pack ice.

Later, coming down a substantial pressure ridge I got to experience something new, and highly dreaded in the Arctic. I was lowering my sledges down a thick, angled slab of ice onto a frozen lead. When I lowered the larger sledge my right foot went through the ice up to the knee!

I quickly got my leg out and ran over and patted snow in it to help absorb the sea water. I got off lucky, no water made it to my foot. Expeditions have been cancelled and toes lost from such 'accidents'.

this evening when making camp the rescue helicopter flew within about 1/4 mile from me. They were going to resupply Bettina and Jean-Gabriel, likely after having been searching for Dominique. It's good I saw it tonight rather than several days ago when I was wanting to go home. I still don't have news about her yet.

Made some okay mileage, it's still very cold and the wind continues to blow me North. We'll see what tomorrow brings.





Mar 17, 04 - Bart Simpson in the Arctic

It happened, I actually had fun today! Maybe it's that I'm getting used to being out here, or I've been out here too long, but I had fun today.

The terrain was the most challenging yet, with many high pressure ridges and Miles of jumbled pack ice. But I also found a very nice, freshly frozen lead to follow. It made all the difference in the world - at least to me.

I crossed over many leads, some with very thin ice. I've found that I like the tricky sections, there's risk, challenge, and the purity of the adventure. At one lead I used my sledge as a bridge and ran across the top.

Also, the ice takes so many different forms and shapes. Recognizable figures start to appear. Today I saw Bart Simpson, the head of a tyrannosaurus rex, and an elaborate Spanish bull. The other day I saw a hammer, and often see lots of pyramids.

The weather was decent, though a wind continued to blow from the South. This is good for two reasons; it's not in the face searing my flesh, and it's blowing me North, helping my mileage rather than rob it from me.

Towards the end of the day the ice started to flatten out. The pressure ridges decreased in height though there were many more leads and thin ice.

I topped off my day with a tasty beef enchilada dinner and a fresh pair of socks. Not bad for another day in my Arctic office.







Mar 16, 04 - Jumping Arctic puddles

I had one warmer day, several days ago, and am looking forward to more! It's not that I didn't expect really cold weather at the North Pole (go figure), but it has such an impact on everything.

Today's terrain was mostly very difficult. I crossed over many frozen leads and pressure ridges with a lot of pack ice. Often it looks as though I'm passing through a construction zone, with huge blocks of ice that resemble frozen concrete.

I also crossed over an open lead. I attached a longer rope to my sledges and then gently pushed them into the water . Threw my skis and poles across, and then jumped and hop-scotched over several floating blocks of ice to reach the other side. I planned out each footstep. If I screwed up I would've gone completely in the water, and at -41c temps that is very bad.

My mood was a bit better, which helps overall. support from my family, mostly Brenda keeps me going. There's no doubt I'd like to go home, but I'm Not willing to quit.

It's late for me now and I must rest. Tomorrow will be another day....







Mar 15, 04 - There are no stores up here

Ouch. I've got frostnip on several of my finger tips and it doesn't feel good. Today was another cold and hard day. I slogged through lots of pack ice and over many small pressure ridges.

The wind initially was calmer, but picked up a bit while pulling the sledges. Of course, it was a headwind, biting my flesh and robbing my mileage. After a hard day's work, I have barely a mile to show for my efforts.

I'm also loosing my eyebrows and lashes. Any moisture on the body or clothing is quickly turned to ice. The small amounts of moisture on my lashes and eyebrows are no exception. They dangle icicles which then freeze to other parts of my clothing. Eventually my vision is obscured and if I close my eyes for even a second I run the risk of having them frozen shut - which has happened a few times. Clearing the ice rips out lashes and eyebrow hairs. I like it when the temperature is warmer....

At least the sun was out, which makes it seem warmer (though it was at least -41c). In the morning I discovered another lead had opened up just south of me. This time a bit farther at around 80 yards away. steam was rising from the open warm water.

During the day I tried to maintain a Positive Mental Attitude, this helped. But I know in a day or so a helicopter will fly nearby and home with a warm bed is just a phone call away. I try to out this thought out of my head, and instead tell myself my reward will be a nice hot shower in Spitzbergen, Norway after my trek is over.

Taking down my tent I broke another tent pole - the third one in 11 days. I brought with me special carbon fiber poles because I was concerned with breaking aluminum ones. Of course the aluminum pole works great and the carbon fiber poles have been causing me grief.

I had to repair the poles, as I didn't have any other options. When making camp tonight I spent an hour huddled around my stove, pulling poles apart, re-stringing elastic through good pole sections. Eventually I had a complete working pole and proceeded to setup the rest of my tent and prepare for the night.

And so this was another day of life/surviving in my Arctic office.





Mar 14, 04 - A very cold Sunday.

Last night in the beginning it was relatively warm, but then the wind kicked up and hasn't let up since. Unfortunately it's blowing from the North, which means it's pushing me South. I've lost all the mileage from the last three days.

While most people would be relaxing on a Sunday, my day was far from relaxing. It was extremely cold during the day, likely below -45c, and with the wind it was driven down to around -75c!

I didn't check my goggles from the day before, and when I put them on they were completely iced. I could barely see out of one portion of one side because of the ice on the goggle lens. I battled into the headwind for several hours and then setup camp.

Now night has come and it's even colder. Welcome to the Arctic.

Today I saw my first 'sundog', where the sun casts bright spots on each side of it, almost like the beginnings of a rainbow but without all the colors. It was a very nice sight,.

This morning I got out of the tent and tended to my sledges. Two hours later when I went back out I noticed open water near my tent, it wasn't there two hours earlier. A lead opened up just to the South of me, only 25 yards away! And fortunately I was on the North-side of the break. It didn't make any noise that I noticed, it just split the huge pan of ice I was on.

Because of the cold, the stove didn't dry anything out, I'll try in the morning. Now, burrowed in my sleeping bag I hope I don't shiver all night long. The wind is rustling my tent as if it's trying to keep me from sleeping well.

The worst thing I hate is the frost that falls off the roof of the tent and onto my face and eyes. When this happens it sends chills throughout my body.







Mar 13, 04 - Beards happen

Somebody heard me; today is much warmer than yesterday. Thanks!

Made a few miles of progress, though I skied a bit more than what I have to show for my effort. That's just the way it goes in the Arctic.

During the day visibility was low, as it was snowing lightly and a descent wind was blowing the 'snow' horizontal. Snow in the Arctic doesn't really look like snow, it's just frozen bits of white stuff.

The terrain was descent, though very difficult to distinguish sky from ice. The large lead that yesterday was impassable was frozen enough to allow a gingerly crossing.

Saw another set of old polar bear tracks. As long as they are old.... I'd rather not encounter a bear.

My mishaps for today are that I learned I have frostnip in the tip of one finger, and I had fuel leaking in my small sledge.

The frostnip I got from having a small hole in one of the fingers of my liner gloves which I constantly wear. I fixed the glove last night but now have to watch out for the finger. It's painful, but I should be alright.

The fuel leak was a greater concern. When I discovered it, I immediately took everything out of the small sledge and tried to absorb the fuel with some snow. I figured out why the storage can was leaking and shouldn't be a problem again.

I've got plenty of extra fuel, and the leak didn't impact my daily rations. I was more concerned with fuel contaminating my food or harming other items in my sledge.

After I made camp and dealt with the fuel-leak issue, I ran the stove extra-long tonight to dry out some clothes. It actually got warm inside my tent! As soon as the stove was turned off it got cold again, quickly.

And now I'm back to shivering in my sleeping bag and waiting to call into a TV station and speak 'live from the ice'. This will be the first of many live interviews during my trek.

The picture is of me, happy to be warm (at that moment), and my beard and moustache starting to show.





Mar 12 , 04 - Please tell management to turn up the heat!

Did I happen to mention IT'S COLD IN THE ARCTIC?!! Okay, so probably not news to most people, but lately it has been getting very cold in the evenings. I've come to manage -35c without much issue, -25c is nearly balmy, but when the temperature dips below -45c, it's downright cold! Last night I believe it dipped below -50c, could be the same tonight. Brrrrr.

Today wasn't the most productive day, mileage-wise. The weather was nicer, saw the sun most of the day, but tough ice and a huge lead kept me from making much forward progress.

After several hours of pulling, I came to a lead that was just freezing over. It was too thin to cross, and too much ice to swim across. Contemplated using the dry suit but wouldn't have been able to tow the sledges across.

The lead was about 450 feet across at its narrowest point. Tried skiing around it but after another hour decided to call it a day. I did see a ring seal pop his head up through the thin ice to check out this stranger in his backyard. He followed along popping up occasionally to check my progress as I skied along the lead.

I eventually had to go south, to get some distance between my camp and the lead. Polar bears like to hunt along such leads and I'm not interested in being part of anyone/anything's, menu.

I got my tent up and ran the stove extra long, trying to dry out some clothing that has become wet and then of course frozen stiff as a board. Made some progress in this area, but still have plenty of drying to do. I also did a little sewing to repair a hole in my gloves.

It's still very early in the polar expedition season. In several weeks the sun will be out 24hrs a day, and it will get much warmer. Until then, Ill just keep doing the best I can (and dream of tropical places).







Mar 11, 04 - One week on the ice

A hard and not so fruitful day. I pulled long and hard, but the slight headwind I was skiing into is also blowing my piece of ice south. So, instead of making 5 or 6 miles I netted 3. That's the way it goes sometimes.

At first the weather was somewhat descent, but within an hour or so the light got flat. Soon after that it was thick, kind of like fog but not quite. Visibility dropped to about 200 feet and it was hard to distinguish the sky from the ice.

I had a few minor problems; both of thermos' won't close or stay closed tight, spilling liquid onto me, my tent, and other items. I lost my potholder. So not too serious and I can work around these and the other minor problems I'm faced with.

No good news about Dominique. They are debating stopping to search for her. This weighs heavily on me, and from now on I must try to put it out of my mind - but it's hard.

I continue to reach for the pole. With luck and perseverance I should make it. During the day I fill my head with pleasant thoughts, like sleeping in my own bed, taking a shower, or just going to the store for a food I desire.

The odd thing is I often have songs playing in my head. Typically older songs from the last 20-30 years. I guess a bit of sensory depravation will do that (at least to me).

The other thing you experience when out here in the Arctic is that your senses become heightened. you can hear a pin drop, and opening a box of matches I can smell the chemicals used to make them, the cardboard box, everything.

Well, time to sleep for me. Last night was really cold, well below -45c - I don't know how far below yet until my ARGOS reports come back. I hope to sleep better tonight.






Mar 10, 04 - Hitching a ride to the pole

The storm has passed. I'm still in my tent though. This morning it was still raging outside and with the good progress made just drifting I decided to stay put. Packing up camp takes several hours which would've let me ski for about an hour and a half.

I've spent the day sending emails and hoping to get some positive news about Dominique. Still no word from her. Hopefully she is safe and well, and just having ARGOS problems. Most of us are.

The ARGOS system is a satellite transmitter beacon we explorers carry with us. It gives our location, temperature, and sends out a pre-coded message to our basecamp managers. My ARGOS is giving two timestamps, which is wrong. Ben Saunders unit us showing him farther north than he really is.

It's my hope that Dominique is having ARGOS and Iridium phone trouble, and is safe on a solid piece of ice somewhere. I know they are out in helicopters searching for her.

They rescued Frederick yesterday, but no news of his condition as of yet. Being a polar adventurer/explorer is dangerous, we all prepare, and don't take the risks lightly. The situation can go from fine to deadly in just a matter of moments out here.

Me, I'm fortunate to be safe, warm, healthy, and basically well. I've been eating very tasty meals such as beef stroganoff, honey-lime chicken, BBQ beef with mashed potatoes, and even strawberry cheesecake. Tonight's dinner is three-cheese enchiladas.

It also helps me a lot that I'm able to communicate with family and friends. Special thanks to World Communication Center (www.wcclp.com) for Iridium satellite phone service. If you need to stay connected anywhere in the world, they are the people to contact.

A lot of people also wonder about my daily updates. The words you read are the words I tap out on my PDA. I take digital pics, put the memory card into my PDA, and using technology developed by the amazing couple Tom & Tina of explorersweb.com, send out my dispatches right from the ice. No one is converting my reports.

Tomorrow I will get moving again. I drifted over ten miles towards the North Pole in the last day, but still have a long way to go, about 465 nautical miles. Stay tuned...









Mar 9, 04 - Wishing Dom and Fred well during this storm

A storm is raging outside my tent. Early this morning I got a text message from my 'basecamp' managers Tom & Tina Sjogren of explorersweb.com, telling me of a storm headed my way for the next 24hrs. The clouds I saw yesterday told me the same thing.

It's blowing 30kts, with gusts of 50-65kts. I was going to continue on in-spite of the weather, but my tent is difficult to put up when it's calm, which could be dangerous or deadly in a storm. Visibility is very limited (about 40 feet), and yesterday I saw a huge expanse of open water just to the East.

So, being cautious I decided to call it a rest day, though it's hard to rest when it's so noisy. Also, the ice is shuddering beneath me, like being in an mild earthquake lasting many hours, an unsettling feeling.

The good news is that I'm being blown North and East in this piece of ice I'm camped on. In fact, I've probably made more mileage today resting in my tent than I did yesterday - and with much less effort.

I'm on older ice, which is supposed to be safer, but you can never tell where the ice is going to break up. Being out here you have to be ready to move at all times.

I can hear the ice grinding and moaning and try not to think much about it. I'm in good spirits, healthy, warm (and damp) snuggled in my sleeping bag and vapor barrier.

Night is upon me, which means darkness and more cold. The ice forming inside my tent is violently shaken off by the winds, and lands uncomfortably on my face. The winds have intensified and no longer is it just gusting 50-65+ - I hope my tent holds-up, I don't fall into the frigid ocean, or be crushed by colliding ice.

No matter how uncomfortable I might be, I'm gravely concerned for Frederick and Dominique. From what I understood this morning, Frederick was camped on a small piece of thin ice. In a storm a small piece of ice is generally eaten by other larger pieces of ice. It's likely he's fighting for his very survival.

Frederick is a really great guy, and embraced me with openness and kindness from the very first moment we met in the hotel lobby in Moscow. He's physically the strongest and largest of us explorers. A member of the French Navy and father of three children, he too is a novice to the polar region, just as I am. I hope he is well.

Dominique is an interesting lady. Of French nationality but living in Finland for about 15 years, she is famous there for her expeditions and efforts. The smallest of us explorers, she barely reaches five feet tall, yet has attempted several solo expeditions to the pole. Visit her website at: www.dominiquearduin.com

Visit www.thepoles.com for the latest news on all the expeditions and other things related to polar treks. I'll be signing off now, time to brave the cold and prepare dinner.

If you are a praying person, please pray for Dominique and Frederick.

The picture is of some ice yesterday, when the weather was calm and nice.





Mar 8, 04 - Jaccuzzi in the Arctic

Here I am again! It was a hard day, and not a lot of mileage covered. There were many small pressure ridges, lots of jumbled ice and snow, and one open lead (open water) that was opening wider by the minute.

I skied following Bettina and Jean-Gabriel, and Ben Sanders tracks. I've been staying fairly close to Ben, as I learn how to survive in this unforgiving and desolate place.

It's very hard work, and towing over 350lbs of gear makes it just that much tougher. That's probably my biggest problem right now, I have too much weight in my sledges. Even Ben got rid of his small sledge with food and fuel after the first day. While 'working' during the day I think of ways I can reduce the weight in my sledges, as well as think about my family, food, and easy living in California.

During the day I saw fresh Arctic fox tracks, and old polar bear tracks. It looked as the polar bear had broken through the ice looking for a ring seal.

Towards the end of the day I came to an open lead. Bettina's tracks skied right over it leading me to believe that it was a fresh crack. It was widening and making what sounded like a generator hum/buzz sound.

When I first encountered the lead it was narrow enough to jump over. By the time it was surveyed for any other crossing point it was too wide to jump over.

Not seeing any other way to cross the open water I got out my dry siut and tow rope. I put on the suit, threw my skis and poles and rope over the lead. I tied both of the sledges onto the rope so I could pull one over at a time.

I peered again into the water, it was black, with little pieces of ice starting to form. You could see the edges of the ice descending below the water.

Gingerly I got into the water. It wasn't that bad, I floated well, and the water was warmer than the outside air. I can honestly say I had fun!

With some effort I crawled out on the other side, then pulled both of my sledges across. All in all it was a fun learning experience and it went well.

After another section of thin ice I made my camp, tired from the day's efforts.

I just got news about Dominique and Frederick. Frederick fell into the water, was in it for over 4 minutes, has frostbite on his hands and feet. He's currently bivouacked and awaiting helicopter rescue, but they can't come now as tgere is a 30kt storm on its way.

Dominique hasn't been heard from since Friday. Ugh. I hope she is okay. Some of the expeditions out here have been having Iridium phone trouble and Dominique's ARGOS isn't sending any status or location messages. She has a kayak and can traverse open water. I wish good thought for both Dominique and Frederick!!

My current position as of Mar 8, 04 - 8am; N 82 05.343 E 096 17.270
Drifting quickly East and a touch North.




Mar 7, 04 - Frosty and good

Another day of progress towards the pole. I didn't make as much mileage today, it's hard with heavy sledges and dozens of minor pressure ridges.

My body is still getting used to the intense physical exercise and for me this is normal. Each day my body gets in better physical shape to match the workout I'm doing as my sledges decrease in weight from food and fuel consumption.

Each day has its ups and downs. In the mornings I dread getting out of the warm and damp sleeping bag. Once out I want to get moving as the exercise keeps me warm. At the end of a long day I look forward to resting, but it takes effort to put up the tent, and prepare food and hot water.

Again I dread crawling into the chilly and soon to be damp, and frosty sleeping bag. Though eventually the sleeping bag warms up, moisture that comes from breathing freezes around the mouth. Even the warmth of the head freezes. It's not an easy life to live outside in
-40 to -55f temperatures for days on end.

I'm still not eating enough calories each day, but as my body adjusts my appetite gets better. I know I've lost weight and this was to be expected.

The icy 'terrain' is constantly changing. Each day's ice looks different than the day before. Skiing across thin ice is the easiest, and looks very interesting. The ice forces salt crystals up which then form ice crystals in unique patterns. If they were green it would look like fields of grass.

I prepare my dispatches the following morning, so if you read my current position with the next day's date you'll understand. I did pass 82 degrees of lattitude, which means another 8 to go before I reach the pole.

Current position at Mar 8, 04 - 6am; N 82 02.187' E 095 58.776






mar 6, 04 - Making progress

Again I'll nestled in my sleeping bag. It's damp inside because I must sleep in a vapor barrier to keep my body moisture from escaping and freezing into blocks of ice in my sleeping bag. The vapor barrier is like one big plastic bag.

It's also crowded inside my bag, as I have my water bottle, GPS, satellite phone, connection cables, camera, PDA, and pee bottle inside with me - to keep them warm.

It's very cold out, how cold I do not know yet. My thermometer stopped working at -35f, and it's colder than that. At these low temps eveery move is calculated and planned, from getting dressed to eating to goin to the bathroom.

Yesterday was a hard and long day, and I finally got the tent up in the moonlight. I don't know for certain yet, but I probably covered 7 or 8 miles, which is good considering how heavy my gear and sledges are. Also I'm drifting north, and should've made at least another mile or two. Though I have plenty of food and fuel, I'm in a racee against time. 12 days of delays in Khatanga mean I have started late, and they will close Borneo ice station promptly on May 1st. When May 1st comes the will pick me up no matter how close I am to the North Pole.

I skied across lots of thin ice. It feels solid but I jumped up and down (slowly) and felt it give, swaying and undulating from my movement. I also skied over many pressure ridges, though they were relatively small.

Polar bear tracking were spotted, though they were somewhat old and not too big. They are a constant threat, but I don't worry too much about them.

Sorry, no new pictures yet. I need to warm the camera and the other PDA to transfer the images into my sending unit. I'll try and do that tonight.

The weather has been good, with beautiful sunrises and sunsets, and not too much wind.

Current position as of Mar 7, 04 - 7am; N 81 57.678' E 095 54.501





Mar 5, 04 - On the ice at last!

I'm writing to you from inside my sleeping bag, somewhere near Cape Arctichevsky. After nearly a year of planning, training, and preparation I'm finally on the ice!

In the morning we got up early, had a quick cup of tea, and packed our sledges and gear onto the truck. A half-hour truck ride from the weather station where we spent the night, across the sea, brought us to the once secret military base of Sredny. We divided into two groups and boarded the helicopters.

We then flew for nearly two hours to the first drop-off point. Ben Saunders, Bettina Aller and Jean-Gabriel, and myself got dropped off. We didn't get dropped right at the cape because of a large expanse of open water. They flew us over the open section and thin ice onto solid, good ice. Dominique Arduin, and Frederick opted to start from land and flew back with the helicopters to the actual Cape. There seems to be some friendly competition between the two French people.

At around 2pm, everyone said their goodbyes and well-wishes and the helicopters flew back towards the Cape. Bettina, Jean-Gabriel, Ben, and I each said our own goodbyes, hugged, and started on our own respective journeys to reach the pole.

Bettina and Jean-Gabriel made good time through the different ice conditions as Ben and I struggled with our heavy sledges through the varied ice terrain.

In my first day on the ice, I encountered a wide variety of ice conditions; flat, smooth, jumbled blocks, pressure ridges, frozen leads, and open leads. I must have seen 20 different types of ice formations. I skied until dark, around 6:30pm, and chose a place to make camp for the night.

Setting up the tent was challenging, as is nearly every aspect of surviving alone out on the cold, frozen Arctic ocean. I made hot water and prepared dinner, a tasty chicken and noodle meal and drank hot water.

After dinner I flossed and brushed my teeth, even out here in -37c (or lower) temperatures. I got my sleeping gear into the tent and crawled into my chilly bag for a cold, not so restful night. I wasn't too worried about polar bears, it was just very cold!




Mar 4, 04 - In Sredny at last

Again we are sitting in the airport waiting lobby, waiting. We were woke up at 7:30am, telling us that we have to be at the airport in 45 minutes. We quickly packed our belongings and had a quick breakfast.

We all walked to the airport and it was -47c outside. That's fairly cold! It will get even colder on my expedition but not for the entire trek.

This time they have plane tickets with our destination on them (from Khatanga to Cape Arctichevsky). And we've seen both helicopter pilots and the navigator. I'm still skeptical, after 12 days of being told we would go, I won't believe it until I am standing on the ice at Cape Arctichevsky.

Within an hour or so we all boarded a small bus and were driven out onto the runway towards two waiting MI-8 helicopters. After a while we divided up and boarded the helicopters. With much joy we lifted into the air and headed to Sredny. Along the way we made a quick stop for the pilots to pick up two large sacks of frozen fish.

After another stop for fuel we reached Sredny! We are all very happy to be here, though there is work to do. We must load and prepare our sledges, as tomorrow we will fly to Cape Arctichevsky and start on the ice!

Sredny is on the edge of an island in the Arctic ocean, off the coast of Siberia, Russia. It is surrounded by sea ice, and is beautiful in a special way.

Tonight will be my last night in a heated room for the next two months, the last of sitting in a chair, of seeing other people, of many simple comforts that we take for granted. Of course it will be hard, and long to the pole. But I believe all the planning, work, training, raising sponsors and support, and personal sacrifice I've endured for nearly a year will be worth the final outcome.




Mar 3, 04 - Stuck in Siberia

Da. Nyet. Da. Nyet. Da. Nyet. This was my day today. I got up at 6am expecting to pack the helicopter at 7am heading to Sredny. We loaded up the truck with all 5 expeditions worth of gear around 8am. The truck traveled 50 yards before stopping. After a half an hour it turned around and we had to unload everything (about 1.5 tons of gear).

Within an hour we were told we could go and we quickly loaded the truck - again. After a while we were told we could not fly today because of bad weather - this was a lie.

A bit later we were told we could leave today and we all walked to the airport and made our way through the security checkpoints. Once in the waiting lobby, we waited, and waited. All the while knowing that once the time reached 11am, the pilots would not fly because they need daylight to land at Sredny (Sredny is at least 5 hours away by helicopter).

11am came and went, our gear still sitting on the truck a few yards from our waiting lobby. Once it became 11:15am we were told that we wouldn't leave today, we walked back to the hotel and checked back into the same rooms we have been staying in for the last 11 days. Ugh!

And so it goes in Khatanga. We did manage to load the helicopter with all of our gear, and hopefully we will fly to Sredny tomorrow. We later were told that our permits to fly were only valid until March 2nd, and today is the 3rd.

Each day we do not get onto the ice it becomes more difficult to make an expedition to the North Pole. There was much frustration among the group, but we are also optimistic that we will eventually make it to Cape Arctichevsky and start our expeditions.

For teachers and students; learn three Russian words (for example; Yes, No, and Thank you).




Mar 2, 04 - Thanks for the memories Khatanga

With a little luck my next update will be from Sredny. It looks like all negotiations have been successful and we should be flying via helicopter to Sredny, then the following day to Cape Artichevsky to the drop-off point and to start the expedition. Sredny is little more than a military base and two houses with two families that maintain the weather station.

Once at the Cape, there is another problem to contend with; open water. Bettina Aller, one of the other expeditioners called a satellite weatger monitoring service in her native country of Denmark and tgey report there was 70 kilometers of open water around the Cape. This could be a serious and dangerous problem. If there is that much open water, then I will ask tobeflown further north until there is ice.

Each year the ice is decreasing, by about a rate of about 1%, or 10% every decade. Some people say that global warming does not exist, but our polar regions tell no lies; our earth is getting warmer.

Today I spent the day eating, taking several naps, and modifying a little more of my equipment. Modifying equipment is a constant activity. And having functioning and capable equipment is critical to the success of my expedition, and my life.

Imagine if you were to go camping and you had to trust your life to nearly every piece of equipment you bring; your tent, sleeping bag, cooking stove, clothes, even your watch. Then you'll start to understand how important the right gear, and quality are to my solo expedition to the North Pole.

I have enjoyed making new friends, and it will be a little sad to say farewell to my fellow polar adventurers and their support crews. But we have all come for tge same basic goal; to reach the pole by our own efforts. I look forward to my coming adventure.

For the school kids reading my dispatches, find on a map where the Tamir region of Siberia, Russia is. You can also ask your teacher about the Mammoth - this region has the most concentrated area of Mammoth remains on the earth.




Mar 1, 04 - Polar drama; when will we leave?

Well, Monday morning has come and we are still here in Khatanga with no clear idea of when we will be able to proceed. This morning's excuse was 'bad weather', but we all know it is simply game playing and leverage for control and money disputes that keeps us grounded. I knew that getting to the drop-off at Cape Arctichevsky would be challenging, but I had no idea it would be this hard or take this long.

Unless things change dramatically with Cerpolex and their situation, planning an expedition from the Canadian side might be a wiser choice for future expeditions. I believe I understand the situation and the dynamics involved, and am sorry to see Cerpolex in this position, but the end result is that we (the expeditions on hold here in Khatanga) are pawns and are being leveraged by each side in this drama for polar control.

For us expeditions we sympathize with Cerpolex' position, but at the forefront of our thoughts is each day wasted waiting lessens the chances of a successful trek to the North Pole.

Today we may fill our time by visiting the newly discovered theatre, pool, and bowling alley. Relaxation and enjoyment are fine, though all of us explorers would much rather be out on the ice heading to the pole.

I wish I had more positive news to report. At least I'm still healthy and fit, and just as resolved as ever to make my solo journey to the top of the world.

We got news shortly before lunch that all of our expeditions are in jeopardy, and Cerpolex conceeded that they may not even be in business next year. Not even starting the expedition would be tragic and I dare not think about the consequences. Hopefully everything will work out but things are very much up in the air at the moment.