2012: Kuriki's fourth attempt in four years to climb Everest the hard way.
courtesy Kuriki Nobukazu, SOURCE
Hornbein: Everest from space showing the steep North Face. The 2500 high wall starts at 6300 meters (the equivalent of 100 meter above the summit of Denali). From the West ridge at app. 7300 meter, Kuriki traversed out on the North Face and hooked onto the Hornbein Couloir. He used no fixed ropes, sherpa or oxygen support.
courtesy HumanEdgeTech, SOURCE
Kuriki's 2012 line.
courtesy Kuriki Nobukazu, SOURCE
Top altitude of 8000 meters eventually landed Kuriki in Kathmandu hospital with serious frostbite in his hands.
courtesy Kuriki Yama, SOURCE
Himalaya Fall Season Preview: Slow Return of Climbers, Kuriki Back for Everest

Posted: Aug 19, 2015 05:22 pm EDT

(Tina Sjogren) Remember Kuriki? In 2012 Japanese mountaineer Kuriki Nobukazu suddenly appeared on Everest Hornbein culoir, attempting a solo, off season climb. He got to 7200 meters on October 13, climbed to 7500 meters three days later, and commenced summit push at 7 pm on the 17th.

 

After four days in the death zone (at this altitude the human body can no longer recoup) Kuriki arrived the base of Hornbein at 11 pm. He climbed the section through the night until aborting at 6 am the next morning, citing hard wind. He returned to his shelter at 7500 meters at 5.30 pm on the 18th, and called for rescue the next day, unable to use his hands.

 

Sherpa reached him that same night, lowering the mountaineer to camp 2 by the 20th, finally dispatching Kuriki to KTM hospital by airlift with severe frostbite. 

 

Stefan Nestler (check ExWeb's news feed section) brought news today that Kuriki is coming back for Everest this fall, sans fingers but with Japanese co-climber Masaru Kadotani, no details yet of route.   

 

Original source Himalayan Times further reports a fairly slow comeback season to the quake-struck region thus far: Five teams from Japan, US, Austria, Germany and UK have applied for permits to climb different peaks, including Mt Everest and Mt Manaslu (8,163m).

 

Previous/related: 

In footsteps of giants (cool infographics)

 

The toll of difficult (2012 Kuruki ascent wrap)