(K2Climb.net) Weather is turning for worse, high winds are approaching the Pakistan 8000ers, spiking at 45 m/s on the 7000 meter level Thursday and Friday. Several summits were reached in the last good weather days the past weekend, but not without a toll. Markus Kronthaler, leader of the Austrian team, died out of exhaustion between Friday and Saturday he and climbing mate Sepp Bachmair had bivouacked at the foresummit and proceed to the summit on Friday morning, but couldnt make it back to Camp.
Piotr Pustelniks team found Sepp on their own summit bid, and Piotr Morawski helped him down to C3, whilst the two others continued for the summit. En route they found Markus, ho had already perished. Pustelnik and Hamor reached the summit that day while Morawski departed up again from C3 yesterday and summited on his own.
Back in BC, Wilco and Gerrard dispatched they didnt reach BPs main summit, but turned around at the foresummit.
Meanwhile, Gasherbrum II and Nanga Parbats summits have also been reached, for the first time this season.
mBank Lotto Himalayan Trilogy: Summit!
Saturday Piotr Pustelnik, Piotr Morawski and Peter Hamor did an unexpected summit push on BP normal route. Although just planning to acclimatize, the three Peters decided to take advantage of good weather, and despite Pustelnik having no suitable high-altitude boots they left on Friday, July 8 at 2:00 am. From C3, at 7200m.
They found an Austrian climber on the col (7800m) in bad condition and Piotr Morawski helped him down to C3. On the summit ridge Piotr P and Peter H found a second member from the Austrian team (Markus Kronthaler) who had already perished. After performing the last rites, the Poles proceeded to the main summit, which they reached at 2:00 pm.
Morawski: Rescue first, then summit
Piotr Morawski who gave up his summit attempt in order to help the injured climber made a solo bid on Sunday July 9, reaching the summit at noon.
In spite of the bad events, Piotr Pustelnik's BP summit is sweet; coming after three earlier failed attempts and concluding number 13 in Piotr's 8000ers resume. The climbers are currently on their way back to BC. Once there theyll decide if they still launch an alpine-style push via a new route along the South ridge.
This is also the third 8000er summited by the mBank Lotto Himalayan Trilogy 2006 Expedition this year. In April, Piotr Morawski and Peter Hamor summitted Cho Oyu (8222m); in May Peter Hamor climbed the main summit of Annapurna (8091m); while Piotr Pustelnik and Piotr Morawski reached its eastern summit (8010m).
Austrian Markus Kronthaler lost on Broad
Austrian Markus Kronthaler died of exhaustion on the upper slopes of Broad Peak. Marcus and team mate Sepp Bachmair set off from C3 towards the summit on Thursday. However, they only managed to reach the foresummit and bivouacked there on Friday night. They reportedly continued to the main summit early Saturday, but got too exhausted to reach C3 on descent, according to BroadPeak.org.
Marcus died sometime Friday/Saturday night Sepp was helped down to C3 by the Polish team.
The Austrian team had been on the mountain for weeks, and this was their last chance to reach the summit, before running out of time.
Wilco and Gerrard turned around at the foresummit
Gerrard and Wilco made it to the front (rocky) summit of Broad Peak - due to falling darkness they decided NOT to proceed to the true summit of Broad Peak, stated their home team.
Jorge, a spanish climer who had some trouble on the mountain, finally managed to climb down with a little help. During Wilco and Gerrards summit push, their FTAs team mate Mark Sheen stayed all day in Camp 4 and now suffers from a serious frostbite in his fingers. He is now in Basecamp and is a bit depressed. His fingers are being treated.
Gerrard is with Mark and Wilco in BaseCamp and is feeling tired but he is in good health. The expedition on Broad Peak is finished and climbers are packing to move to K2. Climbers who will not go to K2 are leaving on July 11th.
Argentineans: First summit attempt over
The Argentinean team of Patagonian mountain guides decided to turn back at 7600m on their first summit push, due to the late hour. The team is gathering in BC for some days of rest before launching a new attempt.
Bulgarians: Summit on first ascents anniversary
Bulgarians Doychin Boyanov (30) and Nikolay Petkov (48) summited Nanga Parbat (8125 m) on July 8 via the Kinshofer Route after 14 hours-long push from C4 in deep snow, according to the expedition doctor.
Doychin and Nikolay departed from BC aiming for the top on July 3, exactly 53 years after Hermann Buhl summited the peak for the first time. On July 5 they decided to continue their bid despite other teams turning back between C2 and C3. The Bulgarians reached C4 on July 6 and rested there for an entire day before setting off for the summit in the first hours of July 8.
Koblers team: Summit from the south - first ascent to GII East from the North
The Swiss team summited GII from the south side (normal route) on Friday. On the north side Ueli Steck, Hans Mitterer and Cedric Haehlen reached the summit of GII East earlier this morning, via a new route from the peak's north side.
The climbers had to face loads of fresh snow and increasing winds on the upper slopes. Bad conditions prevented the summit team from trying to reach GII's main summit from the East point, via the West ridge as planned.
Ueli, Hans and Cedric are currently back in C2, hoping to reach BC tomorrow. Due to bad weather, there won't be further attempts to climb the route, or even to retrieve the gear left by the summit team.
Mario Merelli: Summit push tonight
Mario Merelli, Mario Panzeri and Lina Quesada are in GIIs C3, getting ready to leave for the summit tonight.
Dutch: Summit push aborted
The Dutch team aborted their summit bid on GII due to weather forecast announcing bad weather from Tuesday. They are currently back in BC waiting until a further summit window opens.
French+Canadians: Back from C2
Hugues and Antoine (the latter rather tired and dehydrated) are back in BC from C2.
Canadian Maxime is suffering from pneumonia it is not clear if he will be able to climb any time soon. His team mate Mario hoped to be back in BC from C2 today.
In the News
Look whos here: Oiarzabal and Edurne Pasaban in Pakistan for trekking
The Northern Areas of Pakistan are a paradise for mountaineers, adventure and nature lovers. Also Pakistani people are peaceful, Spaniard Juan Juanito Oiarzabal told ExWeb representative in Pakistan Karrar Haidri. The Basque 14x8000er climber is back in Pakistan, with female ace climber Edurne Pasaban (8 8000ers summited). This time, both are trekking in Northern Pakistans valleys.
They also plan to check out some aid works Al Filo de lo Imposible documentary TV series is doing in the Hushe region.
Juanito, who has climbed 21 8000er without supplementary O2 (all 14 of them included), still hopes to return to high altitude climbing, despite not being yet fully recovered from the serious frostbites he suffered on K2 in 2004. I hope to climb Broad Peak on 2007 to celebrate its 50th anniversary, he said whilst showing his amputated toes.
Edurne Pasaban hopes to give Shisha Pangma a try this fall, she told ExplorersWeb.
Karakorum expeditions homepages:
Ian Bergeron(Canadian/Quebec team) | News on Russian teams on Russian Climb | Nives Meroi (Italian) |
Field Touring Alpine's dispatches | News on Pustelniks Himalayan Trilogy on HiMountain.pl (Polish) | Markus Kronthaler German/Austrian team for BP/Chogolisa (German) | Wilco van Rooijen (Dutch) | Patagonian guides for Argentinean fist ascent (Spanish)|
News on Amical teams (German) | News on Bulgarians for Nanga+ GI (Bulgarian)
Mario Merellis G2 team (Italian) | Reinier Zuidhoffs team for GII + BP (Dutch) | Koblers GII teams (German) | Adventure Consultants' GII dispatches | Mike Farris (ATP team) | Mexicans Badia and Mauricio(Spanish)
Other Pakistan peaks:
Alpineclub Sachsen Batura team (German)| News on Masherbrum Russian team on Mountain.ru|
Visit our new website