Pakistan daily wrap-up: GII summits wave desperate pushes on Broad and K2

Posted: Jul 26, 2006 11:00 am EDT

( A large number of climbers many of them Spaniards has summited GII in the last four days. Spaniard Carlos Pauner has just launched a fast, last-minute bid on Broad Peak, despite not being fully recovered from a previous summit push last weekend.

Meanwhile on K2 the Italians are already in C4 they could set off for the summit tonight. Other climbers in BC are desperately trying to rearrange their plane tickets and climbing permits, so they can have a second chance on the Savage Mountain. The three Irish climbers are pushing for a joint first national ascent.


Italians: C4

According to Wilcos home team, the Italian expedition led by Nives Meroi and Romano Benet is in C4 today the climbers could leave for the summit as soon as tonight. Wilco also reported on FTAs member Josette having joined the Italians on their current bid.

Banjo: Irishmen united

Banjo, Mick and Gerard are currently in BC recovering from their recent bid on K2, and waiting for a good weather window to make another summit attempt, reported Banjos home team. With more ropes already in place and supplies left at the Camps en-route, let's hope the next push will be successful in having all three Irishmen standing at the summit together.

Wilco: Hoping for a second chance

Wilco is also in BC trying to get his strength back as soon as possible and figuring out how to manage a second summit push, according to his home team. He is already re-arranging the flight back and his schedule for next week. However, Wilco's climbing permit has almost expired - if he wants another shot at the peak he'll have to transfer to another permit.

Weather forecasts are optimistic. As for conditions above C4, he will get a report today from the Italians and Josette.

Broad Peak

Carlos Pauner: Double or nothing bet

Carlos Pauner and his team are not yet fully recovered from their previous summit bid but neither can they afford to let the current spell of good weather go by. Very early this morning they set off from BC decided not to stop until they reach C3 today and the summit tomorrow.

Gasherbrum II

Polish playground friends: Second summit team succeed

Yesterday, July 25, a second group of Polish team members summited G2, led by veteran ace climber Krzysztof Wielicki. Besides Wielicki, Rafal Fronia, Robert Jucha, and Pawel Podsiadlo topped out after climbing from C3. Zbigniew Zimniewicz also summited, starting from C4. Janusz Majer and Agnieszka Adamowska turned back just above C4.

Later that day, the entire team was safely back in BC, or in C1.

Spanish Mayencos: Four men on top

Four member of the Spanish team summited GII yesterday: They are Javier Dumal, Alberto Ayora, Fernando Yarto and Francisco Borja, according to Spanish media. The latter three climbers belonged to the Spanish Armys High Mountain corps.

Spanish Extremadura team: GII summited now GI?

Paco Briongos and Pablo Luque summited GII on Sunday, Spanish media reported today.

The Extremadura team was supposed to attempt both Gasherbrums. However, Paco Briongos told the media he is not positive the team will have a chance to launch a summit bid on Hidden Peak, since conditions might be bad and the expeditions climbing permit is almost expired.

Further Spanish summits: Basques

Alberto Cerain and Kandido Aizpuru, members of a Basque team, summited GI on Saturday. Their mate Xabier Alzola also reached the top a day later. GII is the fourth 8000er for Everest summiteer Alberto Zerain.

The team hopes to attempt Hidden Peak, starting as soon as they recover from the recent ascent. Alberto is optimistic about their chances for a second summit he told the Basque media that the team had enough time to attempt GI before their scheduled return home, on August 13.

According to media, Manel Domingo and Juanjo Garra would have summited on Sunday as well.

Karakorum teams' homesites:


Ian Bergeron(Canadian/Quebec team) | News on Russian teams on Russian Climb | Nives Meroi (Italian) | Wilco van Rooijen (Dutch/English) | Irish Banjo Bannon's website | FTA's team dispatches on Anan Arnette's website

Broad Peak:

Field Touring Alpine's dispatches | News on Pustelniks Himalayan Trilogy on (Polish) | Carlos Pauner's BP updates (Spanish) | Patagonian guides for Argentinean fist ascent (Spanish)


Mario Merellis G2 team (Italian) | Reinier Zuidhoffs team for GII + BP (Dutch) | Koblers GII teams (German) | Adventure Consultants' GII dispatches | Mike Farris (ATP team) | Spanish Mayencos GII updates (Spanish) | Spanish Extremadura GI/GII expedition (Spanish) | Mexicans Badia and Mauricio(Spanish) | News on Bulgarians for Nanga+ GI (Bulgarian)

Nanga Parbat:

Jose Antonio Delgado's Venezuelan expedition(Spanish)

Other Pakistan peaks:

Benegas brothers live dispatches| News on Masherbrum Russian team on

#Mountaineering #Mountaineering

Live image over Contact 3.0 of Italian climbers on their way to C3, along the Abruzzi Spur route, courtesy of Wilco van Rooijen (click to enlarge).
The veteran ace climber has summited all 14 8000ers, including the first winter ascents on Everest and Kangchenjunga. "Mountains are unpredictable but this accident made me realize once more that fashionable summit pushes without proper acclimatization can have very negative results," Krzysztof Wielicki said. Image of the Polish climber courtesy of
Carlos Pauner and his team set off early this morning from BC and decided not to stop until they reach C3 today and the summit tomorrow. Image of Broad Peak courtesy of Carlos Pauner.

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