Pakistan daily wrap-up: Summits everywhere!

Posted: Jul 27, 2006 01:35 pm EDT

( The cries of summit echoes came ringing in yesterday as Italians Nives Meroi and Romano Benet achieved the first K2 summits since 2004. There is also news of more summits on GII (Polish and Mexicans) as well as Broad Peak, where a Russian team summited later in the day on Saturday. Also on Broad Peak, Spaniards Carlos Pauner and Raul Martinez are on their way to the top from C3 today.


Nives and Romano: First summits after two years

For two years K2's summit had eluded every climber that attempted to reach the world's second highest peak. Yesterday all of that changed. Italians Nives Meroi and husband Romano Benet summited K2 from the Abruzzi Spur route, achieving the first success on that peak since 2004.

Nives and Romano had left BC on July 23. A day later they reached C2 and, on July 25 they reached C3 with just enough time to rest for a few hours. That night, at 11:00 pm, they set off and, in only 11 hours, they reached the summit, skipping C4 and setting no fixed ropes on the upper sections, according to Nives sister Leila. They summited at 1:00 pm (local time) on July 26; at 4:00 pm they were back in C3. The couple is descending back to BC today. Read the summit breaking news in a story published yesterday. (Editor's Note: Previous reports stated that the climbers had reached the summit at 10:30 am local time and had returned to Camp 4)

Broad Peak

Russian Chernogolovka team: Evening summit

Leonid Butov, Alexander Lutokhin, and Dmitry Sinev, members of the Russian Chernogolovka team summited Broad Peak on July 24 at 6:30 pm (local time). They are all safely back in BC.

Carlos Pauner: News expected soon

News is expected soon from Carlos Pauner and Raul Martinez. The two climbers speeded up from BC to C3 yesterday. They hoped to leave for the summit today, weather permitting.

Gasherbrum II

Polish: Summit

Two Polish climbers - Pawel Mitura and Boguslaw Chamielec - summited Gasherbrum II yesterday afternoon. Both are independent climbers sharing a climbing permit and BC with the Playground Friends HiMountain Gasherbrum Expedition.

Spanish Mayencos: Sketchy story

Sources from the Spanish Armys High Mountain School reported yesterday that all team members were safe and sound one of them was already in BC while the other three descended at a slower pace.

However, president of Mayencos Mountain Club (organizing the expedition) told local media that three team members had forced a bivouac on the way down, above C4.

Meanwhile, climbers currently on Gasherbrum II reported on one member of the Spanish team taking a fall while descending he had to be assisted by passing climbers, and bivouacked at about 7600m together with two team mates who brought a borrowed tent and gear to the place where he had fallen.

Further news and a complete report are expected from the team and other climbers there.

Mexicans Badia and Mauricio: Summiting couple

Mexican married couple Badia Bonilla and Mauricio Lopez summited GII on Saturday, July 22 at 1:20pm, local time. This is Badias 5th 8000er after Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu (several of them on O2).


Corominas and Baro: Down

Spaniards Jordi Corominas and Oriol Baro turned back on their attempt to open a new route on GIV, apparently due to bad weather. They are now safely back in BC.

Shisper Peak

French team: Briefing

A 10-member French team led by Jean Annequin is on their way to Shisper (7611m). The team briefed yesterday at Alpine Club of Pakistans HQ in Islamabad.

In the news

Warning to climbers: Is your Thuraya sat-phone working?

Some climbers, such as the Benegas brothers currently on Latok I, have been reporting on their Thuraya sat-phones failing. Yesterday, Thuraya released a warning, saying that it had been experiencing problems with its network since July 17. Check the entire press release in a story published yesterday.

Karakorum teams' homesites:


Ian Bergeron(Canadian/Quebec team) | News on Russian teams on Russian Climb | Nives Meroi (Italian) | Wilco van Rooijen (Dutch/English) | Irish Banjo Bannon's website | FTA's team dispatches on Anan Arnette's website

Broad Peak:

Field Touring Alpine's dispatches | News on Pustelniks Himalayan Trilogy on (Polish) | Carlos Pauner's BP updates (Spanish) | Patagonian guides for Argentinean fist ascent (Spanish)


Mario Merellis G2 team (Italian) | Reinier Zuidhoffs team for GII + BP (Dutch) | Koblers GII teams (German) | Adventure Consultants' GII dispatches | Mike Farris (ATP team) | Spanish Mayencos GII updates (Spanish) | Spanish Extremadura GI/GII expedition (Spanish) | Mexicans Badia and Mauricio(Spanish) | News on Bulgarians for Nanga+ GI (Bulgarian)

Nanga Parbat:

Jose Antonio Delgado's Venezuelan expedition(Spanish)

Other Pakistan peaks:

Benegas brothers live dispatches| News on Masherbrum Russian team on

#Mountaineering #Mountaineering

Nives Meroi and Romano Benet achieved the first summits on K2 since 2004. Images of the couple and K2 courtesy of Nives' website (click to enlarge).
Russian Chernogolovka team members are safely back in BC after summiting Broad Peak very late in the day Monday. Carlos Pauner hoped to reach the summit today. Image of Broad Peak reflected in a climber's glasses courtesy of Ian Bergeron (click to enlarge).
Contradictory reports are not helping to pinpoint the whereabouts of Spanish Mayencos team members. Meanwhile, further climbers are reaching the summit these days. Image of a Spanish climber on the way up courtesy of Mayncos GII expedition (click to enlarge).
Bad weather forced Spanish Jordi Corominas and Oriol Baro to retreat on GIV, where they intended to open a new route from its west face. Image of GIV wrapped in clouds sent live over Contact 3.0 three days ago, courtesy of Adventure Consultants (click to enlarge).

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