Pakistan daily wrap-up: Japanese summit on K2? Spaniards on top of GI - further pushes underway

Posted: Aug 02, 2006 01:05 pm EDT

( The Japanese team summited K2 from a different route than the Abruzzi Spur on Tuesday, according to Banjo Bannon. The Irish climber, along with Wilco and Jack, finally chose to remain yesterday in C3 for the night. Today they will stop for a short break in C4, before departing for the summit. Russian climbers are also on their summit push.

Spaniards Alberto Cerain and Xabier Alzola have summited Hidden Peak - 7 days after reaching the summit of GII.

There is also news on a Ukrainian team achieving the first climb of Shingu Charpas north ridge.


Banjo + Wilco + Jack: Japanese summit were going tonight

Banjo, Wilco and Jack (Polish Jacek Teler) decided to stay in Camp 3 (instead of C4 as planned) for the night, due to unfavorable weather, according to their home teams. They will climb to Camp 4 today, expecting to make their summit attempt on Wednesday night/Thursday morning, reported Banjos team.

Banjo also reported yesterday on the Japanese team summiting K2 via a different route than the Abruzzi Spur. Further details are expected soon.

The Japanese team on K2 belongs to the Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club. It comprises eight climbers led by Deriha Yoshitsugu.

Russian Kuzbass + Serguey and Gia: Summit push

Russian Kuzbass team started their summit bid on K2 on Monday. Serguey Bogomolov and Gia Tortladze are also going up with them.

Broad Peak

Ukrainians: C3

The Ukrainian team has reached C3 on Broad Peak, according to Russian Climb.

Gasherbrum II

Adventure Consultants: Good-bye BC

AC team left BC yesterday, after their porters came to pick up the expeditions loads. The majority of our loads went down the Baltoro Glacier, reported team leader Mike. We are going across the Gondogoro La (5940m) with a small number of porters, including our three high altitude porters and cook.

GI (Hidden Peak)

Alava Spanish team: Summit - Everest was not this tough!

Spaniards from Alava (Basque Country) Alberto Cerain and Xabier Alzola summited GI on July 29, after breaking trail all the way up and finding tough conditions at the Japanese Couloir.

"It's been a tough climb, breaking trail in crazy snow conditions," said Alberto once back in BC. "If we knew the snow layers were so unstable, we wouldn't have even tried. However, since we were already in the middle of it, we decided to go on."

"This is my fifth 8000er, but I will never forget it. Everest was not this tough," added Alberto.

Mexicans Badia and Mauricio: Yet in time for GI?

Mexicans Badia Bonilla and Mauricio Lopez summited GII on July 22. Since their climbing permit is valid until August 12, they have decided to give neighboring GI a try too.

GII is Badia's fifth 8000er.

Shingu Charpa

Ukrainians climb Shingu Charpas North Ridge

Ukrainian climbers Igor Chaplinsky, Orest Verbitsky and Andrey Rodiontsev have achieved the first ascent of Shingu Charpas North ridge - alpine style, according to The team climbed the route in a five-day round trip. From the summit, they climbed back via the same route they had ascended.

Shingu Charpa (5600m) belongs to the Masherbrum massif, Central Karakorum.

Karakorum teams' homesites:


Russian Climb | Nives Meroi (Italian) | Wilco van Rooijen (Dutch/English) | Irish Banjo Bannon's website | FTA's team dispatches on Anan Arnette's website

Broad Peak:

Field Touring Alpine's dispatches | (Polish)


Adventure Consultants' GII dispatches | Mike Farris (ATP team) | Arabako Espedizioa GI/GII(Spanish/Euskera) | Mexicans Badia and Mauricio(Spanish) | News on Bulgarians for Nanga+ GI (Bulgarian)

Other Pakistan peaks:

Benegas brothers live dispatches|

#Mountaineering #Mountaineering

Wilco, Banjo and Jazek (Jack) - from left to right in the images - expect to reach the summit tomorrow. Images of the climbers sent live over Contact 3.0, courtesy of Wilco van Rooijen, compiled on a K2 image courtesy of Nives Meroi (click to enlarge).
Alberto Cerain and Xabier Alzola have summited both Gasherbrums in 7 days. Image of one of them on the summit of GII last week, courtesy of Arabako Espedizioa GI/GII team (click to enlarge)
Ukrainian climbers Igor Chaplinsky, Orest Verbitsky and Andrey Rodiontsev have achieved the first ascent of Shingu Charpas North ridge - alpine style. Image of the peak courtesy of

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