Pakistan daily wrap-up: K2 - Japanese back in BC, Banjos and Russian team move up, Its over for Wilco

Posted: Aug 04, 2006 09:05 am EDT

(K2Climb.net/Madrid) Young Japanese summiteers Yuka and Tatsuya are back in BC, after a longer than expected descent. Apparently the climbers summited on O2, but ran out of gas that night, which they spent in a bivouac at 8200m.

Banjo, Jack (Jacek) and the Russians are still on their summit push Dutch Wilco turned around and descended to BC.

On surrounding mountains, some teams willing to leave BC are reporting on trouble with porters, such as the Spaniards from Alava expedition. Meanwhile, the Benegas brothers prepare to push up on Latok 1.

K2

Tokai University: Safely back!

Young Japanese summiteers Yuka and Tatsuya finally reached BC yesterday night. Apparently they summited on O2, on August 1 at 4:50 pm. However they ran out of gas soon after reaching the summit. The late hour forced them to bivouac at 8200m without Oxygen. They reached back C3 on August 2, and proceeded all the way back down to BC yesterday.

The climbers are exhausted, but otherwise the team doctor hasnt found any symptom of HACE, HAPE or frostbites. He believes Yuka and Tatsuya will feel OK after some rest.

Wilco: Its over

Wilco called of his summit bid and returned to BC yesterday.

Banjo and Jacek: C4 today?

Banjo, Jack and some Russians remained yesterday in Camp 3, hoping to move to C4 today.

Russians: C3

Russian team members in C3 yesterday are Foigt, Kuvakin, Gaponov, and Rusakov. Bogomolov, Kuznetsov and Uteshev were in C2.

Gasherbrums

Alava Spanish expedition: Lost on the glacier

After summiting both Gasherbrums, Alberto, Xabier and Iosu started the trek back to Skardu or so they thought. The porters did not arrive in time to retrieve the teams equipment (a number of teams this year have reported similar problems). Thus the Basque climbers set off on their own with only three porters and a local guide.

We started for the Gondogoro La, but after some hours walking the guide confessed he didnt know the way - neither the porters had any clue, reported the Spaniards yesterday. Eventually we had to turn round and headed for Concordia. Once there, the porters refused to go on. We were supposed to reach Ali Camp they signaled the way, and said it was 3 hours away. Leaving them there, the three of us finally left on our own.

Its been 5 hours since then. We are on the glacier, there is no Camp to be seen, and night is falling. If we dont find Ali Camp we will have to spend the night in the open. It is not that bad, since we have our sleeping bag and mattresses, and the weather is ok but we have no food. We are not worried, but really tired and more than upset with the local crew.

Latok 1

Benegas brothers: Almost ready to go

The weather is still holding and we are becoming like two young puppies in a New York apartment: Just cant wait till we can go outside and play - In this case to spend 10-14 days on a big face, reported the brothers.

We are waiting for some porters to bring medicine for Damians stomach (omeprazol) as he wants to make sure that he wont get sick up high. We think that the porters will arrive on Friday (today) and the next day we will start climbing.

Karakorum teams' homesites:


K2:


Russian Climb | Nives Meroi (Italian) | Wilco van Rooijen (Dutch/English) | Irish Banjo Bannon's website | FTA's team dispatches on Anan Arnette's website | Tokai University K2 expedition (Japanese)

Broad Peak:

Field Touring Alpine's dispatches | HiMountain.pl (Polish)

Gasherbrums:

Adventure Consultants' GII dispatches | Mike Farris (ATP team) | Arabako Espedizioa GI/GII(Spanish/Euskera) | Mexicans Badia and Mauricio(Spanish) | News on Bulgarians for Nanga+ GI (Bulgarian)

Other Pakistan peaks:

Benegas brothers live dispatches| Swiss Trango expedition| Mountain.ru

#Mountaineering #Mountaineering






Young Japanese summiteers Yuka and Tatsuya finally reached BC yesterday night, exhaused after a three days-long descent. Image of the summiteers at arrival in BC courtesy of the expedition team / Tokai University Mountain Club.
The Russian team members were yesterday scattered between C2 and C3 on K2. Bao and Jack hope to reach C4 today. Live image of climbers moving up between C3 and C4 on K2, sent live over Contact 3.0 two weeks ago, courtesy of Wilco's homesite (click to enlarge).
Dutch Wilco van Rooijen has finally called his attempt on K2 off. Yesterday he returned to BC from C3. Live image of Wilco with K2 in background, sent live over Contact 3.0, courtesy of Wilco's homesite (click to enlarge).
The weather is still holding and we are becoming like two young puppies in a New York apartment: Just cant wait till we can go outside and play - In this case to spend 10-14 days on a big face, reported the brothers. Live image over Contact 3.0 of Damian bouldering courtesy of the Benegas brothers / The North Face (click to enlarge).

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