Amical's Great Trango Tower report: It worked - we'll be back next year

Posted: Sep 13, 2006 11:56 am EDT

( This year, German-based outfitter Amical Alpine offered a commercial expedition on Karakorums Great Trango Tower (6286m).

The experiment worked, and 8 out of 9 team members reached the summit. Team leader Herbert Wolf made it to the top twice, accompanying his clients divided into two summit teams.

Guide on top twice

The first group reached the summit on August 24, 2006. Summiteers were Austrians Franz Ornetsmüller, Gerhard Rad, Christian Nedomlel, Bernhard Weiss, and guide Herbert Wolf.

The following day, Herbert headed up again and summited with German Christine Reuter, Austrian Stefan Bendinger, Swiss Daniel Weber, and German Roland Brand. All of them made it safely back.

Clients applying to take part in the expedition had to first prove they could climb grade V, UIAA scale (about 5.6 US graduation), and mixed terrain (rock and ice) with crampons on.

The routes steepest sections at +40º were however fixed with ropes.

Back again next year

Given their success, Amical is already preparing a similar expedition for next year, owner Ralf Dujmovits told ExplorersWeb.

The expected climbing dates will be from Sunday, July 29, until Monday, August 27. Hajo Netzer will be the guide. Hajo is a certified UIAGM-guide, with four 8000ers summited. He guided clients to the top of Nanga Parbat back in 2001.

The Trango Towers mark the threshold to the Karakorum. Located between Dunge, Biafo and Trango Glaciers, the granite spires are a target for big-wall climbers from around the world.

The Great Trango Tower (6286m according to a Japanese survey in 1988), was first climbed by Americans Dennis Hennek (team leader), James Morrissey, John Roskelley, Galen Rowell, and Kim Schmitz, on July 21, 1977 through the West Pillar.

Most of the Amical Trango route goes over 30º and 40º steep rock except for a few 50º sections and an 80º ice-gully. The objective difficulties are increased by altitude and severe weather conditions that may cover the rock sections with snow and ice.

UIAGM guide Herbert Wolf has summited Cho Oyu, Shisha Pangma and Nanga Parbat, as well as Ama Dablam, Shivling and Denali.

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Upper sections of Great Trango Tower's normal route. Image by Ruediger Jooss courtesy of Amical (click to enlarge).
View from the summit of Great Trango Tower towards K2 (left) and Broad Peak. Image ocurtesy of Amical (click to enlarge).

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