Iñaki Ochoa de Olza summited Shisha Pangma Main today at 2.15 pm Nepal time - a sweet success for the climber following several attempts including an ascent of the central summit 11 years back. Iñaki climbed alone and told his family that he thinks he opened a new route or repeated the Russian route in the final part of the ascent.
Now resting in camp 2 (7.000 meters) Inaki is reporting that he did a variation of the Russian route running to the left of the normal route which he found very avalanche prone. Iñaki left camp 1 (6.400 meters) at 2.00 am local time this morning and arrived at the summit 12 hours and 15 minutes later.
He had to use his both ice axes in a number of pure climbing sections and upon arriving at 7.900 meters, he found the edge coming from the south side. After summit, he came back the same route he had climbed from 7.200, after which it converged with the normal route. He plans to descend to advanced base camp tomorrow.
This is the first ascent of Shisha Pangma this autumn. Iñaki reports that there was lots of snow - turning back climbers on both sides of the peak by each passing day. Shisha Pangma became Inaki's 11th 8.000er.
Inaki Ochoa de Olza summited Manaslu with Jorge Egocheaga this past April and now has Kangchenjunga, Dhaulagiri and Annapurna left for the complete list of 14, 8000ers. To his 11 summits, Inaki also has summited Cho Oyu twice more, plus done Shisha central and the foresummit of Broad peak.
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