Everest & Himalaya wrap-up: Cold wind striking - Annapurna climbers stuck in C3, little news from Dhaula

Posted: Oct 11, 2006 02:27 pm EDT

(MountEverest.net) All teams in Nepals Himalaya are reporting high winds and bitter cold: Ivan Vallejos forecast announced 70 km/h today and 50 km/h tomorrow. Those in BC are staying put; but a number of climbers currently high up on their summit pushes are now facing the gale full force.

The Italians are in Annapurnas C3. On Dhaulagiri, news is expected from two Russian climbers, who could have summited Monday. Meanwhile in Tibet, Edurne and her team has launched a summit push on Shishas south face.

Everest

BAI: South Col ready

Our Sherpa team has pulled off big carries to stock the South Col for our final summit push, reported Wally Berg yesterday. They encountered deep snow after the Geneva Spur, and today fought windy conditions. When Dasona reported to me by radio from Camp II, he sounded tired. But they got the job done.

Annapurna

Italians: Fierce wind

Our supposedly-summit day started at dawn yesterday, and it is not yet over, reported Silvio Gnaro Mondinelli earlier today. High winds and extremely cold temperatures have forced us back to C3. Fabio couldnt resist the cold and has returned to BC. Today we are still in C3, five of us including Sherpas, one of whom has also gone down back to BC. The sky is clear, but wind is still blowing fiercely. We are nevertheless going to wait until tomorrow, hoping for a break which let us reach the summit.

Dhaulagiri

News expected from Poles And Russians

The Poles are out of reach, most probably due to problems with their sat-phone. Czech Radek Jaros reported yesterday from C1 (Polish Sylwia is possibly with them), planning to reach C2 today.

Yesterday (Monday) it was beautiful, Radek said. The Russians might have reached the summit. On the contrary, this past night has been horrible the wind was very strong, and we could not sleep because of cold. My warm clothes are in C2. It will be better there."

Ivan Vallejo: Global warming and freezing winds

On Sunday Sete (climbing Sherpa) and I walked up to C1, reported Ivan yesterday. I was surprised and sad to check the effects of global warming on Dhaulas glacier. The snowy basin I remember from last year is now just a barren zone with some patches of black ice. The route last year began up a steep, safe couloir now the place is a rotten rock face, with stones falling down constantly.

We left a gear cache at C1 and returned to BC. Weather forecasts provided by Portuguese Vitor Baia announce high winds from the NW: Up to 70 km/h on Wednesday and 50km/h on Thursday! With such a forecast I wouldnt even go around the corner.

Shisha Pangma

Edurne: Summit push is ON

Edurne teams forecasts for the south face of Shisha Pangma are apparently announcing better conditions, since the team has launched their last-chance summit push. The climbers were departing today from their advanced camp, hoping to go all the way to C2 for the night. Then they would try to top out on October 13, early morning.

Everest:

Berg Adventures Everest dispatches | News on Spanish Hornbein team on BBK (Spanish)

Annapurna:

Mondinellis website (Italian)

Dhaulagiri:

Ivan Vallejos website (Spanish) | Kari Koblers team Dhaula dispatches (German) | News on Polish teams on HiMountain | Radek Jaros' English dispatches

Manaslu:

JN Urban's Sky-ski attempt (French) | News on French teams - Manaslu, Nuptse, Melungtse on FFME (French)

Shisha Pangma:

Edurne Pasabans website (Spanish) | Joao Garcias blog on Sic/Sapo (Portuguese) | Tom Torkelsons blog | Norwegian Hamar teams blog (Norwegian) | Inaki Ochoas website (Spanish) | Project-Himalayas Shisha dispatches | Project-Himalayas blog| HiMex Shisha & Cho Oyu dispatches

Cho Oyu:

Tom Averys Ski Cho Oyu dispatches |D.Benegas dispatches |Alpine Ascents dispatches |Adventure Consultants dispatches | Kari Koblers team dispatches (German)| Mountain Madness dispatches | IMGs dispatches | Polish expeditions website (Polish) | Romanian expeditions dispatches | Dutch expedition | Malaga Cho Oyu's reports (Spanish) | Australian Blair's blog | News on Russian teams on RussianClimb | Nick Farr's blog Norwegian Hvitserk team | FPMEE Philippine team




High winds and extremely cold temperatures have forced us back to C3," reported Mondinelli today. "Fabio couldnt resist the cold and has returned to BC." Image of climber in high winds on Annapurna, courtesy of Gnaro Mondinelli (click to enlarge).
Our Sherpa team has pulled off big carries to stock the South Col for our final summit push, reported Wally Berg yesterday. They encountered deep snow after the Geneva Spur, and today fought windy conditions. Image of Berg's team climbing Sherpas courtesy of BAI (click to enlarge).
I was surprised and sad to check the effects of global warming on Dhaulas glacier," reported Ivan Vallejo. "The route last year began up a steep, safe couloir now the place is a rotten rock face, with stones falling down constantly. Image of Sete by the once snowy couloir courtesy of Ivan (click to enlarge).
Edurne's team has launched a summit push: The climbers were departing today from their advanced camp, hoping to go all the way to C2 for the night. Then they would try to top out on October 13, early morning. Image of team members heading for C1 courtesy of Edurne Pasaban (click to enlarge).




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