Alex Abramov on Kazakh Everest summiteers: 48 hours without O2

Posted: May 02, 2007 06:22 pm EDT

(MountEverest.net) I was really worried about the Kazakhs, Alex Abramov told ExplorersWeb from Everests north side BC. No wonder: They spent 48 hours without supplementary O2!

Maxut and Vassily started at midnight from 7,900 meters," the 7Summits-club team leader said. "At 2:00p.m. on Monday they radioed from the Second Step. It was already 6:00 p.m. when they reached the summit."

Midnight at 8,300m

"Then climbed down until midnight, when they looked for shelter in an empty tent at 8,300 meters (very cold and still without O2). Their next call was Tuesday at 1:00 p.m., from 7,900 meters they stepped at the North Col at 7.00 p.m., and still kept on descending towards ABC, which they reached at 11:00 p.m.

Given the circumstances, their state is not that bad - at all!

Sherpas from several teams assisting

Abramov said the Kazakh counted on the help of a group of Sherpas during the long descent on Tuesday. Among those is Dawa, from Arun treks (the local outfitter providing with BC logistics for Maxut and Vassily) and, according to Alex, Sherpas from Brices HiMex team and from the Chinese expedition also collaborated. Previously, Duncan Chessell had reported on his team's sirdar and one Sherpa working with Abramov's team to have assisted as well.

Maxut Zhumayev, who was born on Jan. 1, 1977, and Vassily Pivtsov, born on Aug. 16, 1975, were both experienced climbers before venturing into the Himalayas and had both been awarded several times for their climbing achievements in the former Soviet Union. After Everest, both have summited 11, 8,000ers without supplementary oxygen or the help of hired high-altitude porters. Of the 14 peaks, the two still have Everest, Lhotse, K2 and Manaslu left to climb. Maxut and Vassily are part of a National Army team coached by Ervand Iljinsky.

Vassily Pivtsov and Maxut Zhumayev radioed from the summit of Everest on April 30, 2007 at 6.00 p.m. Chinese time. Climbing without O2 or high altitude porters, they achieved the firsts Everest summits this season together with five Sherpas working with HiMex team and fixing ropes - the latter climbing on supplementary O2.

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"At 2:00p.m. on Monday they radioed from the Second Step," Abramov said. "It was already 6:00 p.m. when they reached the summit. Then climbed down until midnight, when they looked for shelter in an empty tent at 8,300 meters." Image of Maxut (left) and Vassily courtesy of Russian Climb, compiled on an image of Everest's North Col, courtesy of 7Summits-club (click to enlarge).
I had been really worried about the Kazakhs, Alex Abramov said No wonder: They spent 48 hours (in the deathzone) without supplementary O2! Image of 7Summits-Club team some days ago in their mess tent - Abramov on the right, Vassily at his side, Maxut in front, courtesy of 7Summits-Club (click to enlarge).

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