Newsflash: Broad Peak SUMMITS - Mondinelli bags his 14th!

Posted: Jul 12, 2007 08:01 am EDT

(K2Climb.net/Madrid) "Silvio 'Gnaro' Mondinelli, Marco Confortola, Ivan Vallejo, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Ralf Dujmovits, Fabio Iacchini, Edurne Pasaban and some other members of "Al Filo" team have reached the summit of Broad Peak at 12:30 p.m, local time," Silvio's wife Idel has just told ExplorersWeb.

Storm conditions

Nearly 70 climbers departed Broad's C3 last night on a massive summit bid. However, Silvio has reported on rather tough conditions: Bitter cold and stormy weather. The group of summiteers, who worked together on the higher sections, needed over 12 hours to reach the top, breaking trail in fresh, deep snow. They are currently on their way down, hoping to reach C3 for the night.

"After topping out, Marco is descending in high winds," confirmed his brother Luigi Confortola.

Gnaro joins the 14x8000ers summiteers club

Silvio Mondinelli has thus become the 13th climber to complete the 14x8000ers quest. He is the third Italian to achieve the feat, after Reinhold Messner and Sergio Martini. He is also the 6th person to summit all the Great 14 without supplementary O2.

Also, Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has stepped up to the frst place in the top league for female 8000er climbers. Broad's has been her tenth 8000er. Spanish Edurne Pasaban closely follows her: By summiting Broad Peak, the Basque Country climber has bagged her ninth 8000+ summit.

There are no changes however on Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo's and German Ralf Dujmovits' 14x8000ers quest accounts. They had both previously summited Broad Peak. Ralf has summited 12 main 8000ers, while Ivan has only Dhaulagiri to go in order to complete his quest.

News expected on the rest

News is still expected on the other climbers teaming up with Mondinelli for the final push, such as Carlos Pauner, Silvio's mate Marco Confortola, and Ecuadorian Santiago Quintero; as well as further expeditions aiming for the summit today.

On July 12, 2007 Italian Silvio Gnaro Mondinelli summited Broad Peak, thus becoming the 13th climber to complete the 14x8000ers quest. He is also the 6th person to summit all the Great 14 without supplementary O2.

Mondinelli is climbing together with regular mate Marco Confortola, after both summited Cho Oyu as a spring season training. In addition to Broad Peak, Confortola has also summited Everest, Shisha Pangma and Annapurna.

Today Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has stepped up to the first place at the world's top league for female 8000+ climbers. Broad Peak's is her 10th 8000er summit - all of them climbed without O2, and often choosing difficult routes. Husband Ralf Dujmovits (who had already summited BP some years back) topped out as well. Ralf has summited 12 8000ers.

After attempting Annapurna in spring Edurne Pasaban has bagged on Broad Peak her ninth 8000er. She is teaming up with her is Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo, who already summited Broad some years ago and now has topped out again. Annapurna became Ivan's 13th 8000er in spring this year. Also members of the current Broad Peak team are Asier Izaguirre, Ferran Latorre, Marron, Valenti Giro, Esther Sabadell, and Juanjo Garra.

After being forced back just meters shy from the summit on two previous attempts, Spaniard Carlos Pauner wanted to get done with the Pakistani peak. Teaming up with a small team of friends (Jose Villalta, Marta Alejandre and Alberto Sanmartin), Carlos reached Broad Peak's BC by June 12. Carlos, Jose and Marta dparted C3 toward the summit yesterday night.

Sharing permit with Pauner was Ecuadorian climber Santiago Quintero, attempting Broad Peak in spite of having lost all his toes to frostbite on a previous Aconcagua climb.



Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner(German) | Ralf's Amical (German)| Silvio Mondinelli's BP news (Italian) Marco Confortola (Italian) | Ivan Vallejo (Spanish) | Edurne Pasaban's BP news (Spanish) | Carlos Pauner's reports (Spanish) | Santiago Quintero (Spanish)
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Silvio Mondinelli has become the 13th climber to complete the 14x8000ers quest. He is the third Italian to achieve the feat, after Reinhold Messner and Sergio Martini. He is also the 6th person to summit all the Great 14 without supplementary O2. Image of Silvio courtesy of his website (click to enlarge).