Gasherbrums I & II wrap-up: Few climbers still hoping for summit

Posted: Aug 06, 2007 03:37 pm EDT

( Commercial expeditions are leaving GIIs normal route unclimbed this season, yet climbers like Jean Troillets crew still want to give it a final shot. So does Italian Marios Merelli and Panzeri in G1's BC, teaming-up with a French expedition.

Jean Troillet GI summit report and plans for GII

Following a fast G1 summit, the four climbers are catching breath in BC before going for GII - probably this week, according to Mike Horn. Jean Troillet says it's unsually mild compared to previous expeditions he has led in the Himalayas. Funny enough, Horn has never climbed before, so what did the seasoned Troillet think of his debut on G1's summit?

Mike and I were very tired but we wanted to reach the summit, no matter how long it took [] To encourage ourselves, I took 10 steps forward and waited for Mike to join me, and then we would continue, and then I would take 11 steps in order to advance faster, but Mike also counted and asked me if I thought he was an idiot! Mike handled the altitude very well. He passed the test!

Iranian Mahdi Etemadfar: GI summit on July 30th

Another debrief comes from Iranian Mahdi Etemadfar: "I started my summit push on July 25th from BC and stayed for the night in C1," he reported to fellow-Iranian climber Minoo Zabetian. "Due to bad weather I stayed put for one day and reached C2 on July 27th, in the afternoon."
"Deep snow and high avalanche risk prevented me from setting C4 - I launched the summit bid from C3 instead, on July 29th at midnight. I topped-out at 1:00 pm on Jul 30th, and was back in C1 at 6 pm that day."

Madhi had hoped to attempt GII as well. After an avalanche killed two people on the mountain and bad weather forced him back at 7850m, he called the expedition off.

Alex Gavan: GI Summit proof

Alex Gavan has posted a video clip and several images shot during his ascent on GI, which he says to have achieved in alpine style. Alex topped-out on July 30th.

Merelli: Maybe tomorrow

Weather is unstable, with strong winds at altitude, Mario reported yesterday. Theres just us and a French expedition in BC so that weve held a meeting and agreed to cooperate on a joint summit push. MaybeTuesday when weather should be nice according to forecasts.

Links to teams on the Gasherbrums:

Project-Himalaya's Gasherbrum II dispatches | Alex Gavan's GI & GII expedition website | Mario Merelli GI's news(Italian) | Jean Troillet (news in French) | Mike Horn's website| Mountain Madness

Image of Mario Merelli courtesy of Project Himalaya (click to enlarge).
Romanian Alex Gavan's G1 summit pic (click to enlarge).

Iranian Mahdi Etemadfar (left) summited GI on July 30th. Image courtesy of Minoo Zabetian / Damavand Club (click to enlarge).
Should he summit, GII would be Jean Troillet's (in the image) 9th 8000er. All images courtesy of Mike Horn's website (click to enlarge).