Egocheaga, Urubko, Samoilov, Bogomolov, Tortladze, Colibasanu and Guggemos for Manaslu, Inaki continues to Dhaula

Posted: Mar 06, 2006 05:14 am EST

Monday next week (March 13) Iñaki Ochoa de Olza, 38, is leaving Europe headed for Manaslu and Dhaulagiri. If he strikes luck there, only Kangchenjunga, Annapurna and Shisha's main summit will remain to place the Pamplona speed climber on the prestigious but dangerous list of 14, 8000ers.

The Lorpen-Diario de Navarra expedition will be on Manaslu with a strong International group. The other climbers are Spaniard Jorge Egocheaga, Kazakhs Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov (climbing pair awared by explorersweb among the Best of 2005 for their new route on Broad Peak), Russian Serguey Bogomolov, Georgian Gia Tortladze, Romanian Horia Colibasanu and German Peter Guggemos.

Most climbers will go for the normal route and plan to set BC (4.600 m) in April. Iñaki will arrive earlier to do an acclimatization trek: This is his second attempt on Manaslu since a 1999 attempt was wrecked by poor snow conditions.

Iñaki to release book later this year

After Manaslu, Ochoa de Olza will attempt Dhaulagiri (8.172 meters) normal route with Italians Luca Vuerich, Romano Benet and Nives Meroi.

No climber reached the summit of Dhaulagiri last year. Iñaki climbed from BC to 8.000 meters in 16 hours but had to turn back due to poor snow conditions in the final traverse from the foresummit to the real summit.

Iñaki is once again sponsored by Diario de Navarra (the local newspaper of Iñaki`s birth town) and Lorpen, a Mountain and Sports gear company located in Etxalar (Navarra). Inaki's new sponsor is the Italian mountain wear company Montura.

Iñaki's website,, will carry dispatches but also include excerpts from Iñaki`s first book about his 16 years of Himalayan expeditions, to be released fall 2006.

Iñaki Ochoa de Olza (born in Pamplona, Spain, 1967) is currently involved in completing the 14 8000+, having already summited nine of them: Cho Oyu three times (1993, 2001, and 2004), K2 (2004), Makalu (2004), GI (1996), GII (1996), Lhotse (1999), Everest (2001), Nanga Parbat (2003), and Broad Peak (2003). He has also summited Shisha Pangma Central (1995).


Iñaki Ochoa (left) and Jorge Egocheaga (right) in Himalaya last year. This time both climbers will meet again - on the slopes of Manaslu. Image of the two climbers close to Shisha south BC, courtesy of Iñaki Ochoa/Diario de Navarra-Lorpen expedition (click to enlarge).

Visit our new website