Manaslu: first top images and more summits; Makalu: Joao Garcia, Andrew and others ready for summit push; Japan: Hirotaka and Yuka Komatsu heads-up, A

Posted: May 16, 2008 12:30 am EDT

( He bagged the first summit of the season on Manaslu, and today Kazakh Maxut reports that also German climbers Thomas Lammle and Carsten Otto summited at 12 pm, with Australian Michael Parker and Sherpa following at 2 pm.

Max arrived back in BC today. He also reports that one of the Japanese expedition's Sherpas died from heart failure 3 days ago. The other Sherpas have gone on strike and the expedition is currently halted.


CloudClimbing website reports that Alex Gavan reached Makalu Summit on May 12, thus becoming the first Romanian climber to reach that summit.

Portuguese Joao Garcia reports to ExWeb that BC is reduced to half now: "Lots of tents missing but I like it better like this. We are expecting good weather for the 19th so a big party is making a summit attempt. Looks like Fernando Rubio, me, Jean Luc Fohal, Blair and his Sherpa, a French climber and some others are leaving BC tomorrow. Andrew, Hector will try to summit on 20th.

From Japan, ExWeb contributor Yusuke Hirai reports that this March, Hirotaka Takeuchi kicked off his regular climbing mates Ralf and Gerlinde before their summit number 13 (Ralf/Makalu) and 11 (Gerlinde/Dhaulagiri). Both are now heading for Lhotse; his no.14 and her no.12. Hiro meanwhile will return to G2 this summer.

Japanese K2 female summiteer Yuka Komatsu has not climbed since Shispare. She's quit her Job at ICI in Japan and is currently scouting new routes in Okinawa.

Links to teams in Himalaya:


UK Royal Navy
Waldemar Niclevicz and Irivan Gustavo Burda
Andrew Lock
French Makalu
Santiago Quintero
Blair Falahey
Joao Garcia
Ralf Dujmovits' updates
Spanish paper covering Lolo Gonzales
Andalusia/Basques and Lolo Gonzales dispatches
Latvia:Atis Plakans (leader), Liga Plakane, and Kaspars Klapkalns
News on Juanito on
Alex Gavan's website


Dutch team expedition website
Katja Staartjes
Menno Boermans
Maxut's updates on (Russian)


Maxut's image from the summit of Manaslu (click to enlarge).
"Everything was wind-packed, totally unpredictable, and just really, really bad," said the climber about the Manaslu ski descent (unrelated file image from the peak).
The route above camp 4 towards the summit (click to enlarge).
Max flags main sponsor banner. All photos courtesy of Max Zhumaev and Olga Zhumaeva (click to enlarge).

Image over Contact 4.0 of Everest and Lhotse view from C2 on Makalu, courtesy of Joa Garcia (click to enlarge).