Himalaya wrap-up: Kazakhs for Lhotse-Everest traverse, climbs from Tibet at stake

Posted: Mar 04, 2009 05:42 pm EST

(MountEverest.net) The list of expeditions is still being updated; one of the latest additions is the Kazakh National team going for the infamous Lhotse-Everest traverse a world first and definitely a remarkable challenge.

Climbers hoping to attempt Everest from Tibet are reconsidering their options following reports about Chinese authorities planning to close the mountain at least until April 1st.

Lhotse-Everest traverse: Kazakh attempt underway

Kazakhstan's National team is aiming for a world's first: the Lhotse-Everest traverse, RussianClimb reports.

Previously attempted by Simone Moro and Denis Urubko in 2001, the traverse is considered as one of the main unsolved climbing problems in the Himalayas. The Kazakhs will fly from Almaty to Nepal on March 28.

Everest south side: Svetlana Sharipova

Kazakh Svetlana Sharipova (member in the Central Sport Club of Kazakhstan Army) is attempting Everest from its southern side. Svetlana previously summited Dhaulagiri (2007) and Makalu (2008). As a preparatory climb, Sharipova summited Aconcagua earlier this week, together with club-mate Artjom Skopin and his Ukrainian client.

David Liaño: Everest double traverse at stake

When I departed home for a training trip to Colorado, everything seemed to be going fine with climbing permits, Mexican David Liaño reported. Back at home though, there are reports of Chinese closing the Tibetan side of Everest until April 1st. This means there will be few teams attempting Everest from its north side.

In order to complete my traverse within certain limits of safety, I would need a number of expeditions working on the side of the mountain I plan to use for the descent, David added. The question is: Shall I wait for yet another year before attempting the double traverse? Shall I just quit the project? Is it worth it to return to Everest for a single ascent?

7-Summits club: News expected

Alex Abramovs is one of the few expeditions reportedly attempting Everest from its north side. The team has reported on the climbing restrictions and political unrest expected in the area. However, there is no statement yet about how the situation may affect the teams climbing plans.

Makalu: Roland and Mick for the Great Black

British Roland Hunter is teaming up with Mick Parker for a non-commercial, private expedition to Makalu. Roland runs his own expedition outfitter, The Mountain Company.

Manaslu: Joao García enroute

Scheduled to arrive in Nepal today, Portuguese Joao García will attempt Manaslu together with two old mates from previous expeditions: Belgian Jean Luc Fohal and French Johan Perrier. Vitor Baia will support the team from BC, taking care of comms and weather forecasts.

Should Joao succeed, Manaslu would become his 12th 8000er. Next is Nanga Parbat, which Garcia hopes to attempt in June this year.

Nepal: Ryan Waters connecting the world

American Ryan Waters is running a cross-cultural and educational Everest project. Ambassadors led by Doug Sandok are travelling to Nepal, in order to trek to BC and donate supplies to kids in the country.

The project will provide a school in Kathmandu with computers. This way, these children in Nepal will be able to talk with kids around the world to share information, Waters told ExplorersWeb.

Links to 2009 Himalaya expeditions:

Broad Peak winter expedition:

Don Bowie's website

A. Hajzer's HiMountain


David Liaño's blog

Bill Burke

Richard Hidalgo's blog

David Tait's dispatches

Abramov's 7Summits-club


Zangrilli's blog

Zangrilli's guiding blog

Roland Hunter's expedition blog


Joao Garcia's expedition blog

Jean Luc Fohal's website

Shisha Pangma

Andrew Lock's Shisha+Everest dispatches


File image of Chinese soldiers patrolling the streets in Tibet (click to enlarge).
The Lhotse-Everest traverse, Kazakhstan National Team's next goal. Image by Gleb Sokolov courtesy of RussianClimb.com (click to enlarge).
Portuguese Joao Garcia, with sights set on Manaslu, was expected to land in Kathmandu today. Clip of Joao during an interview on SIC TV channel (Portugal), courtesy of the expedition's blog (click to enlarge).

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