Pakistan wrap-up: Bogomolov back to K2

Posted: Jun 25, 2009 04:44 pm EDT

( Die-hard Serguey Bogomolov just landed in Islamabad, ready for a fourth round against the Savage Mountain. Meanwhile, teams on Nanga Parbat and Gasherbrum II are heading up to C1 and C2.

K2: Bogomolovs comeback, take 4

There is no justice in Heaven! Serguey cried on K2 in 2006, after four fellow Russian climbers perished in an avalanche on the Abruzzi spur, which almost swept him with them. Later on Annapurna, Serguey knew hed been playing Russian roulette again. He survived but became snow-blind and didn't top out. In 2007, he left for K2 again, with the Kazakh National team. Last year Annapurna kicked him off again with frostbite to boot - and still he canceled his flight home and returned to help Iñaki Ochoa.

This season, the Russian climber is attempting K2 for the fourth time. With only Chogori and Annapurna left on the 14x8000ers list, Serguey Bogomolov was interviewed by ExWebs correspondent Karrar Haidri in Islamabad.

I have tried to summit K2 three times already, same with Annapurna, Serguey told Karrar. My latest attempt on K2 was in 2007 from the north, Chinese side. Bad weather and excess of snow forced me down from 8,200m. This time Bogomolov will join an international team outfitted by Adventure Tours Pakistan on the mountains south side.

K2 is the last 8000er left for me to climb in Pakistan, after summiting GI and GII in 2001, plus Nanga and Broad in 2003, Serguey added. After K2 however, I hope Ill be able to climb more peaks in Pakistan people are really nice here.

Nanga Parbat: Göschls team to C2, Miss Oh in a hurry

Weather is good, although wind is blowing hard on the upper slopes, Giuseppe Pompili reported yesterday. Were about to leave for C1 and, hopefully, tomorrow (today) well proceed further up to C2.

Korean Miss Oh is also climbing Nanga Parbat she has arranged a chopper to airlift her the moment she returns from the summit, in order to take her all the way to Gasherbrums BC," Pompili noted. "The operation's cost adds up to $12,000, entirely paid by her sponsor.

GII: Climbers to C1, fixing works to C2

"David and Paul have left for Camp 1 (5,910m)," Jagged-Globes Adele Pennington reported. "Our High Altitude Porters carried a load to Camp 1 and three of them are staying to start fixing ropes to Camp 2 tomorrow (today), joined by a team of Nepali Sherpas from the Altitude Junkies team, Hopefully by the end of the weekend we will have our first acclimatisation phase over and the route fixed to Camp 2. Major teams Amical, Altitude Junkies and Jagged Globe are all cooperating to prepare the mountain.

Argentinean Nacho Lucero is currently in his second attempt on GII, before trying his luck on Cho Oyu in fall. Hes climbing together with Spaniards David Neira, Mikel Aramburu and Juan Luis Sanchez, as an independent team. Yesterday they logged in from BC after setting up C1.

Links to climbing teams in Pakistan 2009

Broad Peak:

Elisabeth Revol
Antoine Girard
Ludovic Giambasi
Eelco Jansen
Field Touring Alpine
Iran Mountain Zone News
Karrar Haidri's Saltoro Summits
Serap Jangbu Sherpa
Adventure Tour Pakistan


Fredrik Ericsson
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
Maxut Zhumayev
Fabrizio Zangrilli
Santiago Quintero
Sean Wisedale
Nick Rice

Nanga Parbat

Gerfried Göschl
Louis Rousseau
Giuseppe Pompili
Joao Garcia


Daniela Teixeira & Paulo Roxo
Philippe Gatta
Altitude Junkies
Don Bowie
Valery Babanov
Kinga Baranowska
Nacho Lucero
Camilo & Anna

Lesser peaks and spires

Mt. Noshaq's Afghans to the top

#Mountaineering #Mountaineering

Image of Serguey Bogomolov in Islamabad by ExWeb's correspondent Karrar Haidri (click to enlarge).
Göschl's team member Adriano in Nanga Parbat's C1. Image by Giuseppe Pompili courtesy of Pompili's (click to enlarge).
Image of JG's team Ron by the Gasherbrums' glacier with (L/R) GIV, GIII and GII in background, courtesy of Jagged-Globe's website (click to enlarge).

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