Himalaya & Everest wrap-up: departures, arrivals, no O2 attempts and busy camps

Posted: Mar 26, 2010 03:04 pm EDT

Canadian Ta Loeffler posted a short report saying hi from Nirvana Hotel in KTM. Fellow Canadian Rob from No Guts Know Glory expedition posed for departure pics behind a huge pile of duffle bags at Vancouver airport. Sherpas are staking out the best spots in Everest BC. Liz Hawley and crew are interviewing arriving climbers. Himalaya is getting busy.

Sherpas building BC

We arrived on Tuesday at Base Camp, a day behind the majority of our Sherpas and porter loads, Altitude Junkies leader Phil Crampton reported. We will spend the next week building the rock kitchen and levelling the tent platforms for our dining, communication, medical and storage tents respectively.

There are Sherpas from several other expeditions already in attendance setting up their respective camps and slowly base camp will transform over the next few weeks to the tented village it becomes during the Everest season, Phil added. Our team members are still yet to arrive in Kathmandu but should start to filter in over the next few days.

Also working in BC are IMG deputy leader Ang Jangbu and the expedition Sherpa sirdar Ang Pasang. All total we will have 42 climbing Sherpas and 10 Sherpa cook staff working for us; now that is some serious manpower, chief Eric Simonson reported.

Finns return and Spaniards w/o O2

In KTM are Mikko and Tomi from last year's Airborne Rangers Club Everest Expedition. Tomi reached the summit while Mikko made 8200m. Mikko Vermas will try Everest again with a sherpa while Tomi Myllys plus Joni Kirtola are headed for Lhotse. The Finns have climbed together since 2005, mostly in Peruvian Andes.

Spanish Alfredo Garcia and Pedro Garcia are headed to Everest north side for a no O2-attempt. We'll store two bottles in C3 only for emergency, Alfredo said. He has previously summited GII (2006), Cho Oyu (2007) and Broad Peak (Main summit, in 2008).

Fellow Spaniard Josu Ortubay will share their logistics to BC, from where Josu will ump his challenge by using no porters or fixed camps. I want no help, Josu told Barrabes.com. I know it shrinks my summit chances but to me how you climb is as important as what you climb. Not everything works.

In addition to peaks in Alpes, Andes and Tien-Shan, Josu has summited Cho Oyu and reached 8,200m in a storm on Makalu last year.


Edurne Pasaban & Co. are still the only climbers on Annapurna. Currently fixing ropes along some delicate sections between C2 and C3 theye been sleeping in C2 since Wednesday and are expected back in BC tomorrow.

Pustelniks international team set up C1 on Pumori.

Oh Eun-Sun checked in two days ago from Tatopani. The Korean team is expected in BC soon.

Shisha Pangma

Zimbawean-born Mark Hose is currently gearing up for his fourth attempt on Shisha Pangma. Outfitted by Asian Trekking, Mark will train in Lantang area and then move to Tibet by April 8 for a climb without O2 or porters until (at least) Shisha Central summit. "Then, depending on conditions, I'll continue along the arête to the Main Summit," he told ExWeb.

Links to 2010 teams:

Everest south side

No Guts Know Glory

Ta Loeffler

Altitude Junkies

Peak Freaks

Alpine Ascents

Adventure Consultants
br>Scott Woolums Explore your Planet




Finnish expedition

Everest north side

Alfredo Garcia - La Rioja expedition


Edurne Pasaban

Ferran Latorre

Oh Eun-Sun

Kinga Baranowska

Nick Rice

Carlos Pauner

Joao Garcia

Xavi Arias

Juanito Oiarzabal

Horia Colibasanu

Peter Hamor

Park Young-Seok

Shisha Pangma

Mark Hose
#Mountaineering #topstory

IMG Sherpas setting up tent platforms in Everest south side BC.
Image by Ang Jangbu courtesy International Mountain Guides, SOURCE
Rob, Carly and Clintot at Vancouver International Airport.
Image by John courtesy No Guts Know Glory expedition, SOURCE
Alpine Ascents unloading a chopper near Everest BC.
courtesy ALpine Ascents International, SOURCE
Josu Ortubay will try Everest north side without any help at all.
Image by Josu Ortubay courtesy Josu Ortubay, SOURCE
Elizabeth Hawley and HimalayanDataBase assistant Billi Bierling in Kathmandu.
courtesy Finnish Everest-Lhotse expedition, SOURCE