Annapurna update: Tolo Sherpa back in BC, further reports about summit night

Posted: Apr 29, 2010 09:42 am EDT

(ExWeb/Madrid) In sucesive flights, Air Zermatt rescue chopper has airlifted all climbers who remained in C4 earlier today. In an interview with radio Euskadi Juanito Oiarzabal confirmed that Tolo's Sherpa is also back in BC (check the links section to listen to the interview, in Spanish).

Points of view on Korean expedition

Juanito had some bitter comments against Miss Oh team, accusing her of having fixed no ropes (fact is though that Oiarzabal neither did - all ropes were fixed by Edurne's team, who later gave permission to the Koreans to use their gear). He was also rather angry after the Sherpas working for miss Oh refused to leave C4 and help Tolo, in spite of being offered up to 6,000.

On the contrary, Dr. Ramon Morandeira (in BC) posted a report on his blog during summit night, clearly stating that the Korean expedition had used all their resources (technical, human and economic) to support coordination and rescue labors.

Dr. Morandeira: uncontrolled retreat on summit night

"Even Korean super-boss Mr. Jong has been unable to help us though," Morandeira wrote. "Descent from Anna summit eventually turned into an uncontrolled retreat, with each participant fighting for his own life."

"I got concerned the moment I saw the late summit hour: too late, too slow, too tough," the Doc continued.

"Summit evening was terrible, with climbers slowly reaching C4 completely destroyed, in amazing survival stories: Miss Oh was on the verge of complete extenuation; the Russians suffering from aedema and needing help; all others more or less damaged - except for Jorge and Martin, who must come from some far away galaxy and reached C2 helping down a Sherpa suffering from HACE. Juanito, Carlos and Dawa Sherpa stumbled in C4 at midnight, frostbitten and snow-blind. Tolo and Sonan Sherpa, the youngest in the group, culdn´t make it to the tents and were forced to a bivouaq at 7,300m. "

Other climbers back in BC

Nick Rice reports on Kinga arriving in BC from Camp I at 11:26am. "Piotr, Peter, and the Russians are heading down from Camp II and are now just below Camp I," he wrote earlier today.

Tolo (Bartolome) Calafat (40) from Palma de Mallorca, Spain, was on his 7th Himalayan expedition. Climber and ultra-trail runner, he had previously summited Everest and Cho Oyu. Tolo was married and had two kids.

Links to 2010 Annapurna teams:

Edurne Pasaban

Ferran Latorre

Oh Eun-Sun

Kinga Baranowska

Nick Rice

Carlos Pauner

Joao Garcia

Xavi Arias

Juanito Oiarzabal

Horia Colibasanu

Martin Ramos

Peter Hamor

Park Young-Seok


Shots of the rescue chopper and BC crew by Nick Rice, compiled on a general view of Anna slopes.
courtesy Al Filo de lo Imposible - TVE/Nick Rice
File image of Tolo Calafat climbing on Mont Blanc last year.
Image by jcr courtesy, SOURCE

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