Himalaya wrap-up: Cho Oyu summits, Lhotse summit pics, pushes ahead on Makalu, no new Anna route for Mr. Park

Posted: May 19, 2010 12:06 pm EDT

(ExWeb/Madrid) IMG members summited Cho Oyu Monday in bitter cold; Kazakhs are back in BC and posting summit pics; Makalu teams prepare to attempt the "Great Black" summit next weekend, and both Iranian Ehsan Partovi-Nia and S. Korean Park Young-Seok have called it quits on Annapurna.

Cho Oyu: IMG summits

"The climbers left Camp 3 at 2am and reached the summit at 8am," IMG leader Eric Remza told his home team Monday evening. "For our head sherpa, Panuru, it was his 12th ascent of Cho Oyu and he said it was the most difficult Cho Oyu climb he had done. It sounds like there was a lot of exposed rock above the Yellow Band which made for added difficulty."

According to Eric, the wind was not too bad for their ascent, but it was very cold. The team returned in deteriorating weather to C1 for the night.

Lhotse: Kazakhs summit pics

"The Kazakh summit team members have safely reached BC," Andrey Verkhovod wrote in an email to ExplorersWeb yesterday. "Now it can be said that the long and difficult Kazakh climbers' project -- Kazakhstan National Team on all 8000+ is now successfully completed!"

Lhotse was the only summit left to reach for Kazakhstan national 14x8000ers project.

Makalu: summit push plans

"Weather is weather and completely unpredictable at this point. After having been informed by the various weather services that the previous weather window was "short lived and dangerous" we abandoned our summit plans and have been waiting," Chris Klinke reported today from ABC. "Well, the window was good, and we missed the first one, but we are going for the second one with gusto and commitment. The goal will be to summit on the 22nd of May."

"We will leave ABC on May 20th and go directly to Camp 2," Chris added. "Then on the 21st we will head up the Makalu La and go to our Camp 4. We will leave on the morning of the 22nd at about 1 am to arrive on the summit by 10 am. Then we will return from the summit, break camp 4 and descend to Camp 2 by 5pm on the 22nd."

Annapurna/Dhaulagiri: Iran news

"Ehsan Partovi-Nia decided to waste no more time on snowy, dangerous Annapuna," IMZ news reported. "Also, Mountaineering Federation of Iran has released the list of Dhaulagiri summiteers: Azim Gheychi-Saz, Iraj Maani, Seyed Vaase Seyed Mousavi, Majid Nematollahi and Seyed Mahmoud Hashemi along with nepalese sherpa, Haloung Dourchi."

Annapurna/Cho Oyu: Korea news

Park Young-Seok has renounced to open a new variation route on Annapurna south side, ExWeb Korea correspondent Kyu Dam Lee reports. Kim Jae-Soo (partner of the late Go Mi-Sun ) is also back from Cho Oyu with some frostbites.

Ama Dablam

"May, 13 a group of climbers from Club 7 Summits climbed on Ama Dablam: Pavel Laktyushin, Dmitriy Nikitin, Vladimir Khitrikov (our guide) and two Sherpa climbers," 7Summits-Club reported.


Links to 2010 Himalaya teams:

Makalu

Chris Warner & Marty Schmidt

Field Touring Alpine

British SE ridge expedition

Russian Climb

Chris Klinke

Outware exp./Arnold Coster

Dhaulagiri

Stephan Keck - Austrian expedition

Kari Kobler - blog

Manaslu

Carlos Soria

Tente Lagunilla

Patxi Goñi

Shisha Pangma

Edurne Pasaban

Jorge Salazar

Mark Hose

German Ski expedition

Amical

Ramon de Madariaga

Cho Oyu

IMG

Adventure Peaks

SummitClimb
#Mountaineering





Vlad and Maxut holding their national flag on Lhotse summit.
Image by Vassiliy Pivtsov courtesy Kazakhstan National team, SOURCE
Vassiliy Pivtsov, 13x8000er summiteer (only K2 left).
courtesy Kazakhstan National team, SOURCE
Young Kazakh climber Vlad right back from his first 8000er summit: lhotse.
courtesy Kazakhstan National team, SOURCE
Makalu ABC on a windy day.
courtesy Outware treks & Expeditions, SOURCE