Everest + Himalaya wrap-up: Summit Tsunami underway

Posted: May 20, 2010 04:33 am EDT

(ExWeb/Madrid) "May 17, over fifty people made the summit - the night of the 22nd will be even busier," speed climber Chad Kellog reported yesterday, while gearing up for a record ascent - crowds permitting.

Virtually all big teams on both sides of Everest are moving up, including some mega-expeditions. South side groups are mostly aiming for Saturday as summit day, while the Tibet climbers are placing their bets mainly on Sunday.

Makalu teams and remaining climbers on Cho Oyu are also on summit push.

Everest south side

No Guts Know Glory team, featuring Crohn disease patient Rob Hill, is in C2 battling fierce winds. The expedition Sherpas have meanwhile carried supplies to C4.

I intend to leave at 4:30 pm on the 22nd and head for the summit, Chad Kellog reported. "I can wear shoes from Base Camp to Camp 2 and then Carry the boots to the base of the Lhotse Face. At the Lhotse Face I will leave one ski pole and change shoes. Then I will climb to Camp 3 and change into my down suit at about 10 pm. I will also put on my (high-altitude) boots and feet warmers. I will drink some water and refill my hydration pack. There are some bars and gels as well as my mitts and goggles. Then I will continue to Camp 4 refill my water and head toward the summit. I aniticipating reaching the summit around 11 am if all goes according to plan.

Teams in C2 today: Altitude Junkies, Mountain trip, Peak Freaks team #2, Alpine Ascents, Adventure Consultants, Finding Life, Adventures Global, Jagged-Globe team #2, the Everest-Lhotse Finnish expedition and HiMex. The latter team comprises 42 climbers (!) - 13 members, 5 guides, and 24 sherpa, according to guide Adrian Ballinger, who is back up towards his second Everest summit of the season.

IMG team members are scattered between C1 and C2; RMI team has not confirmed location.

Everest north side

Mexicans Yuri Contreras and Laura Gonzalez summited Everest from its south side last year, and are now giving it a try from the north. Members in Kari Kobler team, they will move to North Col tomorrow and gain one camp a day, in order to attempt the summit on Sunday. Should they succeed, this will be the 4th Everest summit for Yuri.

Silvio Mondinelli is also aiming for Sunday summit. Then yaks will come to get our equipment. We will return home with or without summit, he reported. So is the case of Spaniards in la Rioja expedition.

7Summits-club team has divided into two groups. The first one, led by Noel Hanna, hopes to reach the summit on Saturday and a second group headed by Serguey Larin will try to follow one day later.

All 11 members are departing BCand heading for intermediate camp, SummitClimb reported yesterday. Then we will move up to ABC, the North Col, camp 2, camp 3, and god willing, the summit.

Adventure Dynamics are ready but not yet decided to set off. Jordan Romero is at the North Col, and so is Bill Burke.

Everest north face

After another scouting ting trip to the north face and two scares with crevasses hidden under fresh snow, conditions on the north face are apparently better than on the previous check, but still far from perfect. Back in BC, Gerlinde was willing to go for it as soon as the weather improved, but husband Ralf thought otherwise.

For me, climbing the North Face in these conditions is out of the question, so I asked Gerlinde whether she would join me in climbing the Odell route to 7,200m and from there onto the NE ridge, which is still a great challenge, especially when climbing without oxygen, Dujmovits reported. And the likelihood to reach base camp safe and sound is certainly much higher.

I simply have to accept that I am no longer as brave as I was when I was younger. But maybe I just see the risks and dangers more clearly after so many years of experience, added Ralf. Or I have just seen too many deaths during my years of climbing. Or it is a combination of the above stated facts that stop me climbing the North Face. Whatever it may be, Gerlinde has agreed to follow my intuition and do without climbing the North Face, for which we have trained so hard for such a long time. Charly (our meteorologists) forecast a lull in the wind after 22nd May, which might be our time to finally push for the summit.

Cho Oyu

After a dramatic rescue operation and lost opportunity for a summit push there are only three men still standing in the Baltic United team, Tarmo Riga told ExplorersWeb.

On May 13th the team was moving towards C2, where the expedition leader Saulius Vilius had been waiting them for 3 days. Alar Sikk, Estonian Everest summiteer collapsed just before C2. It took several hours of hard work to get him back to C1, oxygen and dexamethasone were given during descent. What initially seemed like an acute case of HACE, was later diagnosed to be a stroke by doctors in Kathmandu, only swift and decisive action had saved the man's life on the mountain. The remnants of the team moved up to C1 today, hoping to launch a summit push on May 22nd.

Links to 2010 Everest & Himalaya teams:

Everest south side

No Guts Know Glory

Ta Loeffler

Ta Loeffler

Altitude Junkies

Anne-Mari Hyryläinen (AJ) - SkyClimbers

Albert Bosh

Colombian expedition

Chad Kellogg speed attempt

Mountain Trip

Peak Freaks

Alpine Ascents

Paul & Denise Fejtek (MT)

Patrick Hollingworth

Adventure Consultants

IMG

RMI

Elia Sailaky - finding life

Adventures Global

Malta team

Eco Everest

SummitClimb

Mountain Madness

Expedition Hanesbrand

Jagged-Globe

Dream Guides

Kari Kobler

HiMex

Adrian Ballinger - Alpenglow

Everest-Lhotse

Simone Moro

Finnish expedition

Cleo Weidlich

Everest north side

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

Silvio mondinelli

Alfredo Garcia - La Rioja expedition

Hungarians - Dreher 24

Jordan Romero

Project-Himalaya

7-Summits Club

Adventure Dynamics

Duncan Chessell

Adventure Peaks

Bill Fisher

Bill Burke





Image sent live over Contact 5.0 of climbers leaving BC on Everest south side on summit push.
courtesy Adventure Consultants, SOURCE
Chad Kellogg self-portrait in C2. Image sent live over Contact 5.0.
Image by Chad Kellogg courtesy Chad Kellogg
Adventure Dynamics team members checking O2 systems in ABC, Everest north side earlier today. Image sent live over Contact 5.0.
courtesy Adventure Dynamics, SOURCE