Pakistan wrap-up: climbers on the move in slow season

Posted: Jun 07, 2010 01:42 pm EDT

With only 25 climbing permits issued for all peaks, this may be the quietest Karakoram summer yet. In addition, climbing seasons merge closer by the year with guides such as Fabrizio Zangrilli, Chris Szymiec and Phil Crampton migrating from Himalaya straight to Pakistan.

Broad Peak

I arrived in Islamabad two days ago, Fabrizio Zangrilli wrote. Essar and Naiknam at ATP said that the Karakoram will be very quiet this season. According to them there are only 25 permits sold to the entire range - including 6, 7 & 8000m peaks! Neither could remember such a slow year.

Last year we thought was slow with around 70 permits sold - perhaps the economy, the events in Lahore and the Attabad (Hunza) flood and lake formation have really put second thoughts in peoples minds about coming, Fabrizio reflected. The KKH is supposedly in bad shape and the lack of people will be good for the always difficult to get seats on the flight to Skardu.

I must admit that I am looking forward to not so many teams in both base camps, Fabrizio, hoping to move to Skardu on Sunday, added.

We have a 14 member team with about 8 attempting K2 as well, FTAs co-leader Chris Szymiec, still in Kathmandu, reported. Everyone will acclimatize on the normal route of Broad Peak.

This is a non-guided trip for experienced climbers, Chris noted. As far as I know, all members have summited at least one 8K peak in the past.

Also headed for Broad Peak; Alberto Iñurrategi, Mikel Zabalza and Juan Vallejo had their briefing session at the Pakistan Alpine Club this weekend. Their goal is a traverse of the three summits of BP.


In the blink of an eye there was a razor to my neck, Fredrik Ericsson reported. I had committed the ultimate rookie tourist error, suckered into complacence by a few friendly encounters that lulled me into dropping my guard.

Check Fredrik's and Treys update for a complete report on their thrilling encounter with the - barber.

The ski mountaineers were lucky enough to score seats in one of the scarce planes flying from Islamabad to Skardu, and thus skipped the bumpy, endless trip along the KKH.

This will be my fourth time at the Baltoro, where I have never managed to reach the summit of any 8000er, in spite of several attempts, Giuseppe Pompili reported earlier today. I hope this will be my time.

Pompili will attempt K2 via the Abruzzi Spur. Should I succeed, Id be the 26th Italian on top Who cares, though. This is something I am doing for myself; not for the record.

Nanga Parbat

Last week, the Polish team fought their way along 1000 meters of 45 to 75º steep ramps: the route to C2.
(Ed. lost in translation note: C2 has not yet been established as previously published.


Altitude Junkies, Phil Crampton on Saturday from Kathmandu:

We are still in Kathmandu after the conclusion of our Everest expedition this spring but should be arriving in Islamabad very soon.

Double-header climbers (for GI+GII) are Phil Crampton (UK/USA), Max Kausch (Argentina/UK), Arian Lemal (France), Samuli Mansikka (Finland), and Fredrik Strang (Sweden). Roo Dix (UK), Tachi Pesando (Italy) and Wally Reisinger (Canada) will go just for Gasherbrum II.

Our friends Max, Sammy and Freddy will be joining the expedition using Junkies base camp services, weather forecasts, communications and sharing the good coffee we have brought. They will be climbing without any Sherpa or High Altitude Porter support.

Heading for GII; French Ludo Challeat and team latest logged in from Payju on Saturday. The team also includes Marc Dreyer, Jean-Marc Wojcik, Yves Blazer (on his 3rd 8000er), Christian Maurel and Pemba Sherpa from Kathmandu.

Links to 2010 Pakistan teams:


Fredrik Ericsson

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner

Field Touring Alpine

Mike Horn's Pangaea expedition

Fabrizio Zangrilli

Giuseppe Pompilli

Mike Horn's Pangaea expedition

Broad Peak

BAT Basque traverse team

Nanga Parbat

Artur Hajzer's Polish Winter Himalayism

Kari Kobler - blog


Waldemar Niclevicz: BP+GI

Don Bowie: GIII+GIV

Altitude Junkies

Ludovic Challeat


Lesser Peaks

David Falt: Latok I
#Mountaineering #topstory

American Trey Cook getting a local hairdo in Skardu.
Image by Fredrik Ericsson courtesy Fredrik Ericsson, SOURCE
Mikel Zabalza (left) and Alberto Iñurrategi briefing in ACP's HQ in Islamabad.
Image by Karrar Haidri courtesy Karrar Haidri - ExplorersWeb, SOURCE
Paiju Camp on the Baltoro trek.
Image by Ludovic Challeat courtesy Ludovic Challeat, SOURCE
Diamir side of Nanga Parbat and the route to C2.
courtesy Polish Winter Himalayism 2010-2015 expedition - Nanga Parbat, SOURCE
Giuseppe Pompili.
courtesy Giuseppe Pompili, SOURCE