Yes it's that time of the year again! Some teams have already left for the big peaks so check out the first edition of the brand new 2011 Everest and Himalaya list of expeditions below.
The final edition will be published in the fixed Expedition List section (above) next week after which changes will be harder to make so please email email@example.com asap with corrections or additions.
Has the global recession affected commercial and independent climbing? Perhaps. Some commercial teams have cancelled projects, but below are at least 50 teams headed to Himalaya this spring.
Everest South Side
Spanish Edurne Pasaban is returning to Everest, this time w/o supplementary O2.
In his sixth visit to the peak, British David Tait hopes to bag the summit without oxygen this time. His acclimatization includes a new route on Lhotse, and perhaps another traverse attempt.
For the first time, a Dominican team is attempting to climb big E.
Ecuadorian Ramiro Tisalema (CO 05, EV 06) will try to summit Everest in less than 24 hours and without bottled oxygen.
Brazilian Rodrigo Raineri (EV 08) will lead a Brazilian expedition to Everest and attempt to hang-glide back to BC. Team member Carlos Eduardo Santalena will try to be the youngest Brazilian to summit the peak.
Basque Unai Llantada, headed for Everest, will share BC with Carlos Soria, Carlos Pauner and Juanito Oiarzabal headed for Lhotse.
Outfitted by Asian Trekking, Dawa Steven Sherpa is returning to big E with Apa Sherpa (20 times Everest Summiteer!) and Nanga Dorje Sherpa in an Everest clean-up expedition utilizing green energy when possible.
Headed by Tim Rippel the Peak Freaks outfit is fully-booked this Everest season.
Following last year's success, Phil Crampton wil be back on Everest south side this spring leading Altitude Junkies all-inclusive outfit.
Dream Guides is another all inclusive, this one led by Brit Everest multi-summiteer Kenton Cool.
David Hamilton & Andy Chapman wil lead UK's Jagged-Globe.
Scott Woollums is back with his Mountain Trip.
Everest mega-serial-summiteer Dave Hahn is leading RMI's 2011 expedition.
Mountain Madness is back with Willie Benegas, 8 times Everest summiteer.
Sumit Joshi is leading the international Himalayan Ascent team including Aussie breast cancer survivor Sharon Cohrs.
NZ-based Adventure Consultants are returning with Mike Roberts as leading guide, Ang Dorjee Sherpa as assistant guide, and Dean Staples guiding a private client.
Similar to many of the other commercial outfits, Alpine Ascents International have extended services with a partial trip to C2 and a complete Lhotse expedition.
Large, Seattle-based commercial outfitter IMG is led by Justin Merle, Greg Vernovage, Mike Hamill, Ang Jangbu Sherpa, Eben Reckord, Adam Angel and Max Bunce. Blogging for Outside mag, Alan Arnette will launch his second attempt on Everest with IMG.
Once a regular sovereign in Tibet, Russell Brice of Discovery TV fame (and David Sharp/NangpaLa infame) has moved his mega outfit Himalayan Experience to Everest South side.
Henry Todd's low budget outfit is back with Everest Ice 8000.
Swiss Kobler & Partner outfit offers no less than six 8000ers trips this spring, Everest from Nepal among them.
Everest north side
Mexican serial Everest summiteer David Liano is back for a double ascent: one from Tibet and one from Nepal. Last year David retreated on the northern attempt due to chest pain before moving to Nepal and topping out Hillary's route.
American Nick Rice will attempt Everest w/out 02 with Spanish friends from previous expeditions.
The Spanish Reto Everest 2011 expedition will acclimatize in Nepal before trying Everest from Tibet.
Kiwi guide Jamie McGuinness will lead Project-Himalaya this season.
Alex Abramov and his 7Summit-Club team will be back to their usual Everest playground as well.
UK-based outfitter Adventure Peaks will be climbing the north side, and so will Summit Climb led on the north side by Arnold Coster. Kobler & Partner have outfits on both sides of big E as well.
At 72 years old, Spanish veteran climber Carlos Soria hopes to turn Lhotse his 10th 8000er this spring in a step to complete the 14x8000ers by age 75.
Attempting Lhotse for the third time, Carlos Pauner hopes three will be a charm on his 11th 8000er.
Sharing BC with Soria and Pauner, Juanito Oiarzabal will go for his 25th 8000er on Lhotse. The first Spanish 14x8000er summiteer is trying an encore and has already bagged 8 of the summits twice.
South Korean Chang-Ho Kim will attempt to open a new route on Anna's north face.
Mingma will try his final 8000er on the standard SW route to become the first Sherpa 14x8000er summiteer. His team uses O2 and includes Ted Atkins (friend of Mingma's and inventor of the 'Topout' oxygen masks).
Philippe Gatta and Ludovic Chaeat are among members in a French-Swiss team attempting Kangchenjunga SW route. Brazilian-American Cleo Weidlich might be there too.
Climbing Kang without O2 or sherpa support are Italians Mario Panzari and Antonello Martines, Polish Pawel Michalski and Romanian Alex Gavan in his attempt to become the first Romanian Kangchenjunga summiteer.
Slovak Peter Hamor is teaming up with Paul Jackovica for a cool triple-header, including Lobuche East south ridge, Pumori (SE ridge) and Makalu's French route. They'll climb light, with no supplementary O2 or high altitude porters.
After a hard attempt on K2 last summer, Polish Kinga Baranowska will be on Makalu for her 8th 8000er summit.
The South Korean KAF DaeGu expedition of Jin-Cheol Cha (leader), Yong-Chea Lee and Seung-Ho Kim will attempt Makalu this spring.
British Jagged Globe commercial outfit will work the north side led by Robert Anderson. Makalu is on the menu also for Kobler & Partner.
A South Korean Manaslu Expedition will climb the peak and try to retrieve the remains of Haing-Soo Park and Chi-Woon Yoon, perished in a storm on summit push last year.
Jan Krabec is leading seven fellow Czech climbers in an exciting no 02 attempt on the peak with possibly the first snowboard descent from the summit.
Chilean lady climbers Maria Paz Ibarra, Maria Fajardo, Viviana Callahan and Macarena Sánchez will go for Dhaulagiri.
Swiss Kobler & Partner offers Shisha Pangma, and so does Ralf/Gerlinde's Amical Alpin.
Australian/US outfitter Field Touring Alpine has announced both spring and fall Cho Oyu climbs.
SummitClimb's Dan Mazur will be busy this season. Leading Everest and Lhotse he'll first take on Cho Oyu early spring with co-leader Max Kausch.
Cho Oyu rounds up Kobler & Partner this spring.
Other - Jannu
Ji-Myoung Jang and Hyoung-Il Kim departed Korea March 21 for Jannu. BC will be set at 4,500 m on the east side of the mountain. The two climbers will attempt the peak in alpine style following acclimatization on nearby mountains.
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