Himalaya wrap-up: Everest summits, Ueli and Don bag Cho Oyu

Posted: May 06, 2011 02:25 pm EDT

(Brooke Meetze) Word arrived that Ueli Steck and Don Bowie summited Cho Oyu yesterday, May 5. This is Ueli's second 8000er summit this season in a planned triple that includes Everest north side.

Everest south side was summited yesterday and another summit was reported today: Ang Tshering Sherpa says Asian Trekking climber Charlie Wittmack summited at approx 10.45 this morning. He climbed alone, on oxygen.

"I was able to chat to him from Base Camp via the VHF radio link, over a clear line he reported near perfect conditions from the summit," reported Dawa from the team. "Charlies team mates Joe and Brian are at C3 and were monitoring the radio call."

Peak Freaks report the fixing Sherpas left Camp 2 yesterday morning, fixed the rope to the summit, and climbed back down to Camp 2 all in one go.

ExWeb's contributor Rodrigo Granzotto Peron reports:

1. There were 9 summits, 2 from Himalayan Guides (Phu Tshering and Karma Gyalzen II), 4 from Himex (Phurba Tashi, Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, Rita Dorje and Adrian Ballinger) and 3 from Alpine Ascents (names not yet announced, but like 2009 and 2010, the leader from AA must be Kami Rita Sherpa).

2. Phurba Tashi summited Everest for the 18th time, the same mark of Chuwang Nima, and only after Apa.

3. Phurba Tashi is the second climber, after Juanito Oiarzabal, to summit 24 main 8000ers (18 EV + 5 CO + 1 MN). They are even.

4. It was the 17th summit of Kami Rita I, the 14th of Dorje Sonam Gyalzen, the 8th for Rita Dorje, the 4th for Adrian Ballinger, the 3rd for Phu Tshering and the 2nd for Karma Gyalzen II.

More climbers are now leaving BC for an early summit attempt.

"The summit fixing team was made up of Sherpa from AC, IMG and Himex only as unfortunately the other teams pulled out of the effort at the last minute," reported Adventure Consultants who have a summit push brewing. "Deano and Paul are up at Base Camp and have been keeping a close eye on the weather. Watch this space because they are now lining up for their summit attempt in a few days time and will depart BC for Camp Two tomorrow!"

Apa, Chris and Deke from Asian Trekking called off their summit push due to winds and are back in C2. The Brazilians have taken the opportunity to move onto C4; from here they will assess wind speeds before making any summit decision.

Already for 6 days in camp 2, Mountain Trip reports that Neal and Chris skied the Lhotse Face in perfect style from Camp 3 down! "Perfect weather and a great ski line in ultimate conditions!" Check Mountain Trip blog for photos.

Edurne Pasaban threw a Cinco de Mayo fiesta in a sunny BC serving up Tapas of cuttlefish, sardines, cold meats and a few beers. The expedition is getting frequent visits from trekkers. Unlike some commercial teams in BC turning back visitors in fear of infections, Pasaban is happy to greet them: "Today some girls from San Francisco, California came to visit us," she wrote. "Meeting people like this is really great culturally."

Alpine Ascents climber Mike Gibbons reportedly suffered a crevasse fall at the base of the Lhotse Face a few days ago. He returned to the USA and visited with doctors who have diagnosed his arm as not broken. "Mike is planning to fly back to Nepal ASAP and rejoin our expedition!" reported the team.

A fellow climber died on Everest south side near camp 3 on Sunday his wife told local media in Calif., Tuesday (check previous story posted at ExWeb). Rick Hitch reportedly climbed with Int'l Mountain Guides.

Cho Oyu

Field Touring report two of their members, Sophie Denis (France) and Siddhi Bahadur Tamang (Nepal), summited Cho Oyu as well. "Sounds like a few other teams made the push so there may be further reports of summits!"

Website links to expeditions:

Everest South Side

Peak Freaks
Jim Williams
Gavin Bates
Adventure Consultants
Michael Ortiz
Alpine Ascents International
David Tait
Endesa Edurne Pasaban
Mountain Trip
Scott Woolums' Blog
Patricio Ramiro Tisalema
Brazilian Climbing & Hang Gliding
"Memories Are Everything"
Enkarterri-Bizkaia Expedition
Int'l Mountain Guides
Altitude Junkies
Asian Trekking
Ferran Latorre
Apa Sherpa Eco Everest
Seth Wolpin
Jagged-Globe
RMI Guides
Mountain Madness
Patagonian Brothers' Blog
Himalayan Ascent
Climbing for a Cause
Himalayan Experience
Kobler & Partner
Dream Guides
Ice 8000
Peak Promotion Nepal
Chris Davenport

Everest North Side:

David Liano
Nick Rice
Spanish Reto Everest 2011
Project-Himalaya
7-Summits Club
Adventure Peaks
Summit Climb
Kobler & Partner

Kanchenjunga:

Mingma Sherpa
French-Swiss Expedition
RussianClimb
Romanian-Polish-Italian Expedition
Cleo Weidlich

Lhotse:

Carlos Soria
Ryan Waters Mtn. Professionals
Ryan Waters Dispatches
Horia Colibasanu
Juanito Oiarzabal
Carlos Pauner
Alpine Ascents International
Summit Climb

Makalu:

Peter Hamor's Slovak Expedition
Kinga Baranowska
Jagged Globe
Kobler & Partner

Annapurna:

South Korean Chang-Ho Kim (no website yet)
Chilean Annapurna Expedition (no website yet)

Manaslu:

Manaslu Expedition 2011 toward Freedom (no website yet)
Czech Climbing & Snowboard Expedition
Loben Expeditions

Dhaulagiri:

Chilean Female Expedition

Shisha Pangma:

Kobler & Partner
Don Bowie
Amical Alpin

Cho Oyu:

Field Touring Alpine
Peak Freak Cho Oyu
Summit Climb
Kobler & Partner
#Mountaineering #topstory



Peak Freaks' Sherpa at the summit.
Image by Unknown courtesy Peak Freaks, SOURCE
2006. Still climbing.
Image by DONT USE THIS PIC courtesy DONT USE THIS PIC, SOURCE
Already for 6 days in camp 2, Mountain Trip reports that Neal and Chris skied the Lhotse Face in perfect style from Camp 3 down. Check their site for pics of that, and Lhotse, the ladder climbing Everest top dog.
Image by Neal Beidleman courtesy Neal Beidleman, SOURCE

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