The butterfly collector is gone: Takashi Ozaki claimed by Everest

Posted: May 16, 2011 03:56 am EDT

(Newsdesk) According to a media statement by Nepalese Ministry officials Japanese Takashi Ozaki, 58, died on Everest south side presumably of HAPE on Thursday May 12 around 3 pm local time.

The mountaineer reportedly aborted his ascent at 8600 meters around the Balcony and collapsed on descent. It's unclear which team he belonged to, local organizer is reportedly Prestige Adventure.

It could seem unfair that Takashi died on the normal route, considering his history with the difficult sides of Mount Everest.

On May 10, 1980, Takashi Ozaki and Tsuneo Shigehiro made the first full ascent of Everest North Face (Japanese Couloir to Hornbein Couloir). Starting from the Rongbuk glacier, Takashi and his friend took a direct line up a gully leading right into the Hornbein couloir. That gully is now known as the Japanese couloir.

On December 16, 1983, Takashi reached the summit of Everest in near winter.

All in all Ozaki climbed 6, 8000'ers: Broad Peak, Everest, Manaslu, Lhotse, Kangchenjunga and Makalu. The butterfly collector also soled virgin ground on K2, married a beautiful French Embassy employee and climbed Dhaulagiri in winter, with his wife and 3 week old baby near Base Camp in Jomsom. Months later he climbed 6000m Island Peak with his one year old son on his back.

Profile of then Adventure Consultants guide Takashi Ozaki, by Mike Roberts.


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It came as a shock to the community when the popular Ozaki, a.k.a. "Japanese butterfly collector" recently died on Everest normal route.
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