Everest & Himalaya wrap: Summits all around

Posted: May 20, 2011 02:10 pm EDT

(Brooke Meetze) Last night brought plenty of full moon summits in Himalaya. "Watch it live" Gavin Bate; Mountaintrip skiers, Himex David Tait, Arjun the kid on Lhotse; another Everest/Lhotse double by Alpine Ascents, Jaros on Lhotse (no 02); and Kanchenjunga was reportedly in a good mood too. Here the latest wrap.

Everest south side

Climbing with Adventure Alternative, Gavin Bate and Pasang Tendi summited Everest at 1015 Nepal time (0530 UK time). Dave Hill and Lopsang summited at 0820 (Nepal time, 0335 UK time). Bate sported the coolest interactive website effort this season and here goes another video from the team.


Gavin Bates Bid for Everest Summit 19th May 2011 from Adventure Alternative on Vimeo.

Mountain Trip summited Ephi, Neal, and Chris. Scott was just behind with Newall, Irek and Gregg.

Asian Trekking list as their summiteers Indian Climbers Ms. Premlata Agrawal, Ms. Sunita Singh, Mr. Vikash Kaushik and Ms. Sushma Kaushik, Mr. Pawan Grewal, Mr. Narinder Singh, Brazilian climber Mr. Rodrigo Raineri (no word about the paraglide); all Sherpa of the Eco Everest Expedition 2011 and Arjun Vajpai and his Sherpas on Lhotse. Check the website for times and details.

At 4:22 am on May 20th 2011, Garrett Madison, Tom Halliday and Kami Rita Sherpa made the summit of Lhotse. Tom and Garrett were both on the summit of Everest at 8am May 19th. "This makes Tom Halliday the first person to be successfully guided to the summits of both Everest and Lhotse in under 24 hours and he is one of only three individuals that have now done so; himself and Alpine Ascents guides Garrett Madison and Michael Horst," reports the team.

David Tait was back on top of the world for the 4th time at 6.30am reported wife Vanessa. It's yet to be confirmed if David climbed Everest without artificial oxygen as he had hoped to do.

In a recap of the recent summits, Adventure Consultants recall how fast weather can change on Everest. "By the time they reached The Balcony the winds had reached 20kt and there were blizzard conditions [...] further up the mountain the wind dropped significantly and the insulating effect of the high cloud meant that it was a reasonably mild night."

The world's only female 14x8000er summiteer Edurne Pasaban, climbing without 02 this time, arrived in C3 with her team to find that apparently other climbers had not only used their tents, but also left a mess behind.

"The mornings are dawning with fog all around," reports Jim Williams from BC. The weather is warming up and the surface is melting. His team prepares summit push starting on the 22nd May with hopes of topping out May 26. Sign up for the team's expedition Alerts to stay posted.

Everest north

The 7Summits Club report that the rope has been fixed up along the whole route to the summit. The team (8 members, 8 Sherpas and 3 guides planned to reach 8,300 meters today and will try the summit from there tonight (local time).

Project Himalaya will position for a summit bid, "somewhere around the 27th May."


In a mail to the newsdesk from Asim Gupta in Kolkata it is reported that almost 50 climbers were on summit push on the 19th. Among the summits this morning were two Indian climbers Basanta Sinha Roy and Debasish Biswas (on 02) from West Bengal and their Sherpa. Outfitter Loben expeditions wrote that their Sherpa Passang Futur, Pemba Chotti and Tashi "are probably the first three brothers to summit Kanchenjunga."

Asim said that among other summits were Russian Aleksi Bolotov (no 02), French Philippe Gatta and Ludovic Chelleat. Gatta's website added Cédric (Swiss), 3 sherpa and Christian Stangl (ed note: of K2 infame).


Radek Jaros reportedly summited Lhotse without O2 on May 19 after a difficult 16-hour push. He climbed his 12th 8000er on his own and used no oxygen, webmaster Zbynek Grepl told ExWeb.

Carlos Pauner last checked in from C3.

Indian Arjun Vajpai, 17, topped out reported not only Asian Trekking but also his very proud mother Priya Vajpai.


Horia and Peter Hamor are at 7 400 meters experiencing fog, snow and wind. (Ed note: this is a correction, ExWeb had Horia on the wrong peak previously).

Website links to expeditions:

Everest South Side

Peak Freaks
Jim Williams
Gavin Bate
Adventure Consultants
Michael Ortiz
Alpine Ascents International
David Tait
Endesa Edurne Pasaban
Mountain Trip
Scott Woolums' Blog
Patricio Ramiro Tisalema
Brazilian Climbing & Hang Gliding
"Memories Are Everything"
Enkarterri-Bizkaia Expedition
Int'l Mountain Guides
Altitude Junkies
Asian Trekking
Ferran Latorre
Apa Sherpa Eco Everest
Seth Wolpin
RMI Guides
Mountain Madness
Patagonian Brothers' Blog
Himalayan Ascent
Climbing for a Cause
Himalayan Experience
Kobler & Partner
Dream Guides
Ice 8000
Peak Promotion Nepal
Chris Davenport

Everest North Side:

David Liano
Nick Rice
Spanish Reto Everest 2011
7-Summits Club
Adventure Peaks
Summit Climb
Kobler & Partner


Mingma Sherpa
French-Swiss Expedition
Romanian-Polish-Italian Expedition
Cleo Weidlich


Carlos Soria
Ryan Waters Mtn. Professionals
Ryan Waters Dispatches
Juanito Oiarzabal
Carlos Pauner
Alpine Ascents International
Summit Climb
Radek Jaros


Peter Hamor's Slovak Expedition
Horia Colibasanu
Kinga Baranowska
Jagged Globe
Kobler & Partner


South Korean Chang-Ho Kim (no website yet)
Chilean Annapurna Expedition (no website yet)


Manaslu Expedition 2011 toward Freedom (no website yet)
Czech Climbing & Snowboard Expedition
Loben Expeditions


Chilean Female Expedition

Shisha Pangma:

Kobler & Partner
Don Bowie
Amical Alpin
Chilean Andres Claro

Cho Oyu:

Field Touring Alpine
Peak Freak Cho Oyu
Summit Climb
Kobler & Partner
#Mountaineering #topstory

IMG guide Justin Merle with an oxygen bottle at Camp 4 on the South Col.
Image by Unknown courtesy IMG, SOURCE
Not over yet on Everest: Jim Williams' team members Mila and Jetha fixing the solar heated shower in BC in preps for a late May summit push.
Image by Unknown courtesy Jim Williams, SOURCE
Yesterday it was a slack line; today the Swiss Ball in Everest BC.
Image by Unknown courtesy Jim Williams, SOURCE
Expedition leader Jamie McGuinness (right) discussing Everst north side summit plans with his Sherpa team at BC.
Image by Unknown courtesy Project Himalaya, SOURCE
High tech Gate summited.
Image by Gavin Bates/Adventure Alternative courtesy Adventure Alternative, SOURCE
So did Arjun, 17, according to proud mom.
Image by Unknown courtesy Priya Vajpai