Pakistan wrap-up: more GII summits

Posted: Jul 22, 2011 02:19 pm EDT

(Angela Benavides) Climbers from at least four teams set off from C3 towards GII summit today. Alex Txikon - 9 days after bagging GI - and Louis Rousseau were first on top, one hour before Spanish Pauner. According to a later report, another 11 climbers followed.

On Broad Peak eight climbers were ready to set off from C3 last night. News is expected from there.

Back in Skardu, Goeshl's team member (*1) Giuseppe Pompili posted his fiery account from the recent expedition. Pompili says that his expedition leader put personal climbing plans before clients, that Rousseau and Goeshl had a fallout over a rescue effort, that expedition doc Stefan Zechmann slipped nearly 200 meters (but was unscathed), that none of the four Italians in Pompili's group summited, that HAP's are elevated to climbers although they are paid (and heavily packed) porters, and more.

Note on Jul 25: Giuseppe Pompili, previously described as Göschl's client, asked to clarify the following: "I point out that Gerfried's is NOT a commercial expedition but instead a group of independent climbers of different countries coordinated by an expedition leader (Mr. Goeschl)." Therefore, members in the team are not strictly clients.

ExWeb has offered Rousseau and Goeshl to comment.

Gasherbrum II

As reported at ExWeb last night, ABC climbers Alex Txikon and Louis Rousseau were first to top-out GII at noon today, local time. The very tired climbers have reportedly now reached C1, and will rest there tonight.

Carlos Pauner followed about an hour later, according to his press team after climbing for 11 hours non-stop. Pauner mentioned there were no fixed ropes on the higher sections before the summit.

GII is Pauner's 12th 8000er. On his latest two summit climbs (Anna in 2010 and Lhotse this spring) Carlos needed help to descend, while his climbing mates got into trouble (Tolo Calafat died on Annapurna and Lolo Gonzalez was rescued by other teams from above 8.000m on Lhotse).

According to Gerfried Goeshl, team members on GII top today were: Louis Rousseau, Alex Txikon, Hans Wenzl, Dr. Stefan Zechmann, Karl Leitner, Justin Dube-Fahmy, Norbert Linz, Kilian Volken, Willy Imstepf, plus HAPs Kazim and Nisar.

Italian Fabrizio Silvetti and Samuele Sentieri reportedly summited as well.

Update Jul25: Members in Gasherbrum 2011 Italian expedition are: Nicola Campani, Fabrizio Silvetti, Samuele Sentieri and Massimo Ruffini. They didn't use HAPs.

Further news is expected from the Polish-Ukrainian girls, and a group from Iran (6 men and female climber Leila Esfandyari), also joining the summit push from C3. "Three other Iranian climbers will follow from C2," IMZ reported yesterday.

"It's worth noting that Leila touched 7885 m last Thursday and returned back to BC quickly because of harsh weather, while the other climbers currently in C3 reached BC only last Friday and are on their first acclimatization round," IMZ added.

All teams reported consistent snow fall through Thursday.

Broad Peak: eight men

"Were in C3 and getting ready to depart towards the summit at midnight, Xavi Arias reported unexpectedly over sat-phone yesterday. "Spirits are up although weather conditions remain against us: wind is still blowing strong, and fresh snow has covered all the fixed ropes. Forecasts are optimistic though, and so are we: ready to give BP a last shot.

According to the Catalans, the summit group comprised Xavi Arias and Xavi Aimar, fellow Spaniards Javier and Arturo, Argentinean Lito and Heber, plus a French and a Russian climber (names not known).

K2 - south: Gerfried in the house

Spending Tuesday in Broad Peak BC with Louis Stitzinger and the FTA groups while his mates launched a summit push on GII, "Wednesday, I finally reached K2 BC," Gerfried reported yesterday. Explaining why he didn't join the GII group: "I summitted it [the peak] eight years ago; this time I'd rather save all my stamina for K2," Goeshl wrote.

Göschl's immediate plans include a climb up to 7,100 m on the Cesen (Basque) route together with Fabrizio Zangrilli and Kinga Baranowska, in order to be ready for a potential summit push early August.

Nanga Parbat

Things are not easy for Alberto Zerain, Txingu and Cuni. Avalanches and fresh snow had buried the Kinshofer route above C2, forcing the climbes back to BC, wherer they are currently waiting for better conditions.

Links to 2011 Pakistan teams:

K2 Pakistan (south & east) side:

Kinga Baranowska
Fabrizio Zangrilli
Robert Springer
Christian Stangl

K2 China (north) side:

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
Ralf's Amical
Maxut Zhumayev

Broad Peak:

Field Touring Alpine
Sophie Denis
Altitude Junkies
DAV Summit Club
Luis Stitzinger
Ryszard Pawlowski
Antunas Taiwan team
British BP expedition
Xavi Arias

Nanga Parbat:

Alberto Zerain

Gasherbrums:

Gerfried Göschl
Alex Txikon
Louis Rousseau
Giuseppe Pompilli
Jacek Teler
Kari Kobler
Carlos Pauner
Italian GII expedition
Santiago Quintero

Lower peaks & spires:

Ermanno Salvaterra
David Falt
Elisabeth Revol
#Mountaineering #topstory



Gasherbrum II.
courtesy Carlos Pauner, SOURCE
British climbers heading up towards C2 on Broad Peak.
courtesy British Broad Peak expedition 2011