Pakistan wrap-up: more Broad Peak summits, tribute to Leila, change of shifts on Nanga

Posted: Jul 26, 2011 01:13 pm EDT

(Angela Benavides) Three FTA climbers, including 14x8000er racer Sophie Denis, summited Broad Peak yesterday. From Skardu, Giuseppe Pompili wrote a tribute to Iranian Leila Esfandyari recently lost on GII, who sold her house to attempt K2 and be free to climb against all odds.

Broad Peak: three more summits

Sophie, Wim and Andre topped out BP on Monday, according to FTA in US. They followed Xavi Aimar, Xavi Arias and two other climbers who reached Broad Peaks main top for the first time this season on Friday.

Gasherbrum II: more summits

About 15 summits were reported July 22 on GII. Besides those listed Friday, Ecuadorian Santiago Quintero, Polish Jacek Teler and ladies Aleksandra Dzik (Poland) and Maria Khitrikova (Ukraine) reached the top that day.

Conditions were hard. Summit day took 23 hours, from C3 to top and then back to C1, Alex Txikons told his girlfriend at home. It was cold, they had to wear their down-suits already to C3 the day before and the wind didnt drop as expected on the contrary, gusts were up to 70 km/h.

Gasherbrum II: Good-bye to Leila

After summiting Nanga Parbat in 2008, in 2010 Iranian Leila Esfandyari attempted K2. Since Ive got no sponsors, I sold my house to climb it" she told ExWeb's Karrar Haidri before her attempt on the Mountaineers' Mountain. "I want to climb all 14x8000ers and would join any expedition if only I could find a sponsor outside of Iran, she told ExWeb.

Giuseppe Pompili got to know Leila during various climbs and on K2 last year. Learning about the accident on GII this Friday, he wrote a tribute to her from Skardu:

Over the time, a friendship was established between Leila and I, expedition after expedition, in the mountains of Karakoram, Giusepe wrote. She was a beautiful Iranian woman, determined to climb, even alone against all, against the bureaucracy of a country that does not give too much space to independent mountaineers, especially if on bad terms with the powerful federation.

Last summer, on K2, she told me that she had to sell her apartment in Tehran, returning to live with her family, just to be able to fulfill her dream of dealing with that (expensive) expedition. Unfortunately, none of us managed to climb it, and so Leila tried again this summer with G2.

I do not know, and maybe one will never know, the exact circumstances of the fall (sudden illness, failure of an anchor, exhaustion), but I think it isn't important to know the exact dynamics. What matters is the awareness of a missing person, a friend, who was with us until yesterday, and now no more, except in the memory of those who have loved her.

It saddens me to see the disappearance of the only woman remained committed to G2. Among these many mountaineers, climbing mostly for vanity, I think that the only one who really deserved to do it, was Leila, as a witness to a dream of freedom for the women of her country.

Climbing with her Iranian mates Leila fell to her death somewhere between C4 and C3, according to Italians. Fellow Italian summiteers Fabrizio and Samuele were on descent below and knew of the accident only upon their arrival in C1.

K2 north: Route fixed up to C3

The international team is back in BC after fixing the route up to C3, at 7,100. The climbers pitched tents but were too tired to spend the night in C3, so they returned to BC Sunday, according to Maxut Zhumayev.

Nanga Parbat: Basques out, Czechs and Slovenians in

After an attempt on the Kinshofer route was thwarted by dangerous conditions last week, Alberto Zerain, Txingu and Cuny have called the expedition off.

Instead, two new teams reached BC. One is an 8-member Czech expedition led by a woman, Alberto noted. They reached Spantik summit 10 days ago. The other, 7-member team comes from Slovenia.

Links to 2011 Pakistan teams:

K2 Pakistan (south & east) side:

Kinga Baranowska
Fabrizio Zangrilli
Robert Springer
Christian Stangl

K2 China (north) side:

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
Ralf's Amical
Maxut Zhumayev

Broad Peak:

Field Touring Alpine
Sophie Denis
Altitude Junkies
DAV Summit Club
Luis Stitzinger
Ryszard Pawlowski
Antunas Taiwan team
British BP expedition
Xavi Arias

Nanga Parbat:

Alberto Zerain


Gerfried Göschl
Alex Txikon
Louis Rousseau
Giuseppe Pompilli
Jacek Teler
Kari Kobler
Carlos Pauner
Italian GII expedition
Santiago Quintero

Lower peaks & spires:

Ermanno Salvaterra
David Falt
Elisabeth Revol
#Mountaineering #topstory

Leila Esfandyari on GII last week.
Image by Giuseppe Pompili courtesy Giuseppe Pompili, SOURCE
Climbers on a windy GII summit.
courtesy Alex Txikon, SOURCE
Alex Txikon on GII summit, Jul 22, 2011.
courtesy Alex Txikon, SOURCE