Pakistan wrap-up: Broad Peak accident

Posted: Jul 27, 2011 01:30 pm EDT

(Angela Benavides) Three FTA climbers summited Broad Peak on Monday. Team mate Jeff aborted the summit climb and was descending when he fell to his death between C4 and C3.

Three climbers on K2 south face have fixed parts of the Cesen route: Gerfried Goeshl hopes to try the summit soon after his mates arrive. A Siberian duo bagged Nameless Tower on Trango, while Ermanno Salvaterra called off Latok I.

Broad Peak: accident

"I write this note with great sadness to share that just a short time after celebrating summit success we were met with a tragic fall of one of our team climbers [Jeff, from Hong Kong 1*]," states Stu on the FTA homepage.

Update Jul 27th: Jeff's Chinese name was Chung Wai Hung, FTA home team member Stu explained on a later email to Explorersweb.

Jeff and Mike turned back without reaching the summit on FTA push Monday. While heading down to C3, in the serac bands at approximately 7600m Jeff fell past team mate Mike and went on another 300m.

"Jeff's fall began in an area with seracs and after falling some distance on uneven slopes he disappeared into a large crevasse well off the route," the team reported. "Jeffs fall, which was seen from BC, was very serious and left little hope he could have survived. Mike was in no position to enter the crevassed area alone and with Chriss insistence returned to C3 to get more help to search for Jeff."

"Over the ensuing hours 2 different groups (one including our HAP Said and another British group) attempted to reach the area where Jeff had ended up and they were both turned back by dangerous snow conditions. The other members returning from the summit had their hands full just getting back to C3 safely in the dark."

Chris, Tim and Rob still tried to reach the accident area on the following day, before conditions forced them back. Read the complete account on FTA's website.

FTA sent over a prompt, factual report as soon as Jeff's family was notified. All team members expressed their condolences to Jeff's loved ones.

Broad Peak: summit reports

Xavi Arias posted a summit report from Islamabad mentioning that Russian Alexei Bolotov and French Yannick Graziani also topped out. The Catalans described difficult conditions and two full hours needed from the rocky summit (sometimes claimed as the real summit) to the main top.

K2 - south

Gerrfried Göschl, Kinga Baranowska and Fabrizio Zangrilli fixed K2's Cesen (Basque) route up to 6800 meters right below C3. On descent, Gerfried spent a second night in C2 for better acclimatization.

Back in BC, Gerfried wrote: "I expect Alex Txikon and Kilian Volken to arrive on Wednesday. After a few days rest, I hope that we can set off for the summit."

Trango: Nameless Tower

"Siberian climbers Denis Veretenin and Eugeny Bashkirtsev completed the Spanish route in 2 days," reported RussianClimb's Lena Laletina. The climb reportedly kicked off early am July 21. The men topped out July 23 and rappelled back to BC the same day.

Latok I: Over for Ermanno & Co

Montagna.org report that Italians Ermanno Salvaterra, Andrea Sarchi, Cege Ravaschietto, Marco Majori and Bruno Mottini called off Latok 1 some days ago due to fierce winds and high avalanche danger.

Links to 2011 Pakistan teams:

K2 Pakistan (south & east) side:

Kinga Baranowska
Fabrizio Zangrilli
Robert Springer
Christian Stangl

K2 China (north) side:

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
Ralf's Amical
Maxut Zhumayev

Broad Peak:

Field Touring Alpine
Sophie Denis
Altitude Junkies
DAV Summit Club
Luis Stitzinger
Ryszard Pawlowski
Antunas Taiwan team
British BP expedition
Xavi Arias

Nanga Parbat:

Alberto Zerain

Gasherbrums:

Gerfried Göschl
Alex Txikon
Louis Rousseau
Giuseppe Pompilli
Jacek Teler
Kari Kobler
Carlos Pauner
Italian GII expedition
Santiago Quintero

Lower peaks & spires:

Ermanno Salvaterra
David Falt
Elisabeth Revol
#Mountaineering #topstory







Broad Peak Col where Jeff probably fell.
Image by Xavi Arias courtesy Xavi Arias, SOURCE
6,800 m on K2, Cesen Route.
courtesy Gerfried Göschl, SOURCE
Siberian climbers Denis Veretenin and Eugeny Bashkirtsev bagged Nameless Tower.
courtesy Denis Veretenin and Eugeny Bashkirtsev, SOURCE
Broad Peak summiteers posing at Concordia some weeks ago. L/R: Xavi Arias, Jannick Graziani, Alexei Bolotov and Xavi Aymar.
courtesy Xavi Arias, SOURCE