Winter Pakistan: K2 near wipeout, Simone & Denis route decided, G1 on the move, Ireland in the game

Posted: Jan 16, 2012 04:08 pm EST

(Newsdesk) Simone and Denis have decided route on Nanga Parbat. The Russians suffered a near wipeout on K2 by a hurricane destroying camp 1 and parts of BC. Both Gasherbrum expeditions are on the move. Artur Hajzer's team left Askole today, Gerfried Goschl's team arrived Skardu and hope to be in BC in two weeks.

Nanga Parbat

A climb beyond C1 to the col between Nanga Parbat and Ganalo Peak had them decided: Simone Moro and Denis Urubko will not do the Kinshofer route as originally planned, but the Messner-Habeler route from 2000. The route is shorter, Simone reported, although more exposed to falling seracs in the lower section.

As for their Polish neighbors - still shooting for Kinshofer - Simone said they are the mountaineers from last winter, Tomasz Mackiewicz, Marek Klonowski and Lukasz Biernacki. Neither has climbed an 8000er before and only one, Tomek, actually lives in Poland. The other two migrated to Ireland six years ago.


Russian Climb and the team website report that the Russians worked their way up to C2 on the Cesen route last week until a major storm hit the mountain during the weekend. C1 is totally flattened and BC tents went flying about, the team said.

Bolotov's cell of three men returned to base. "Should the weather improve, Totmjanin's trio would go up (Monday)," the expedition stated.


"Luggage piled by the door," reported Gerfried Goschl right before flying to Islamabad Thursday. Mates Alex Txikon and Carlos Suarez departed Barcelona. Last to reach Pakistan this winter, the international GI team checked in from Skardu Friday stating they expect to hit Base Camp in about two weeks.

Training near Skardu for some time, Artur Hajzer's team planned to set off from Askole to BC today. Trekking conditions are reported as dry and fairly balmy: "No snow till Urdukas and the temperature not below -10°C," Hajzer wrote.

Winter 2011-12 Pakistan teams

Simone Moro blog
Denis Urubko blog
Matteo Zanga blog
Russian K2 winter expedition
Russian Climb
Polish GI winter team
Alex Txikon
Gerfried Göschl
Carlos Suarez blog
#Mountaineering #topstory

Simone on Nanga Parbat yesterday.
Image by Simone Moro courtesy Winter Nanga Parbat expedition, SOURCE
Polish climbers (left in image) stripping in Denis Urubko and Simone Moro camp. Simone said the temps in the tent never rose above 8ºC which didn't seem to bother their guests during the tea session.
Image by Matteo Zanga, SOURCE
G1 Poles in the bus to Skardu after a hard training day.
courtesy Polish winter GI expedition 2012, SOURCE
GI international expedition leader Gerfried Goschl in Vienna before departure.
courtesy Gerfried Goschl, SOURCE
The coveted Nanga Parbat, in winter, as seen from BC. Starting on the glacier at 4400 meters Simone and Denis are belayed to each other at every step.
Image by Matteo Zanga courtesy Winter Nanga Parbat expedition, SOURCE
G1 expedition members Carlos Suarez (left) and Alex Txikon at Barcelona airport.
courtesy Alex Txikon, SOURCE

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