13 summits later, Radek Jaros about Annapurna: hardest yet

Posted: May 07, 2012 11:44 pm EDT

(Newsdesk) It's been a wild season on Annapurna and now more summiteers are reported at ExWeb's newswire.

Several Czech contributors report that Radek Jaros summited Annapurna (without oxygen, his 13th 8000+ peak) with climbing partner Jan Travnicek (in his 3rd 8000er). The climbers were latest in C5 and will be descending to BC Tuesday. Radek reportedly said in a sat phone call that Annapurna was his hardest 8000er yet.

The conditions were terrible and many climbers turned back to C3 due to avalanches and snow. The climbing improved slightly from 7037 meters, Radek said, allowing the final summit push.

ExWeb community also reported that Azim Ghaychisaz from Iran, and Spanish Sechu Lopez and Oscar Cadiach topped out. Swiss climber Guntis Brands reportedly turned back. The Hungarian team thanked Azim for helping in the search for Tibor Horvath, believed swept away and buried by an ice avalanche that ripped the lower part of the fixed ropes above camp 2 on Saturday.

Hungarian amputee climber Zsolt Eross was descending from high camp in the latest reports.

Annapurna's massive avalanches have been a big story this Himalaya spring season. Canadian Don Bowie wrote a two part report "The day the mountain fell" illustrated by incredible pictures shot by Tunc Findik.

An earlier summit bid including Dawa, his four Sherpas, Brazilian Cleo, two Chinese, two Indians and two Sherpas, a total of twelve people, all using bottled oxygen remain unverified by AdventureStats. Parts of this outfit have earlier been involved in controversy.

Other climbers on the peak included Brazilian Waldemar Niclevicz, Spanish Carlos Soria, 73 and Mexican couple Badia Bonilla and Maurizio Lopez.

Carlos Soria, Tente Lagunilla and their 4 Sherpas aborted their second summit push on Friday due to "enormous amount of snow" between camp 2 and 3, bringing the risk of avalanche "to the extreme".

Sixty+ years after becoming the first 8000er ever summited (June 3, 1950, by French Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal), Annapurna is notorious for its danger. 



“Not one of my favorite mountains, I must confess. It's dangerous due to avalanche risk on the North Face…” said Iñaki Ochoa de Olza, before losing his life there. 

“Annapurna is on my mind all the time. It's hard and dangerous,” said Silvio Mondinelli whose friend was hit by falling snow and perished in his arms. Simone Moro was right behind Boukreev who died on Anna in an avalanche although being there in supposedly more stable winter snow conditions. 

“Annapurna has the most dangerous standard route of all 8000ers,” said Reinhold Messner.

Before this season, the peak had killed mountaineers for 8 years straight, last Mr Park and his buddies and in terms of summits vs fatalities, while the risk level has dropped since 1985 the mountain remains feared for its avalanches.


Related:

Previous - Tibor Horvath missing on Annapurna

Annapurna: summits reported

Annapurna current: no stopping amputee climber Zsolt Eross

List of all expeditions
#Mountaineering #topstory #feature





Radek reportedly said in a sat phone call that Annapurna was his hardest 8000er yet.
Image by www.radekjaros.cz courtesy www.radekjaros.cz, SOURCE
K2 Magic Line hero Oscar Cadiach is reported among summiteers.
Mere months ago Soria narrowly escaped this snow slide on another mountain notorious for its avalanches: Annapurna.
Image by Tunc Findik courtesy Tunc Findik/Don Bowie, SOURCE
Carlos Soria, Tente Lagunilla and their 4 Sherpas aborted their second summit push on Friday due to "enormous amount of snow" between camp 2 and 3, bringing the risk of avalanche "to the extreme".
Image by www.carlossoriaalpinista.com courtesy www.carlossoriaalpinista.com, SOURCE
The Hungarian outfit lost a climber. Amputee Zsolt Eross is currently descending.
courtesy Hungarian Annapurna expedition, SOURCE