(Ang Tshering Sherpa/Asian Trekking) Here go some freshly compiled spring season stats in Q&A; form with Ang Tshering Sherpa.
Q: How many climbing teams and how many climbers came to Nepal during the Spring 2012 climbing season?
A total of 3005 climbers came to Nepal in the spring of 2012. Of these, 2225 mountaineers climbed NMA Peaks and 780 climbed Expedition Peaks.
As a simple rule of thumb, the Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation manages 8000m and 7000m peaks while NMA manages the 33 popular peaks ranging from 5587m to 6654m.
Q: How many people climbed Mt. Everest this year (Spring 2012)?
This year's spring total has seen 400 more ascents from Nepal of which 208 were new summiteers. Similarly, there were 165 summits from Tibet of which 99 are new summiteers and the rest were repeat summiteers.
30 permits were issued for foreign Mt. Everest expedition teams with 325 climber, 358 High Altitude Climbing Sherpas (HAS) and 230 kitchen staffs (at Base Camp and Camp 2). Amazingly, out of 325 foreign climbers 178 (55%) summited and of 358 HAS, 222 summited Mt. Everest (62%) in this Climbing Season.
Q: How many People have climbed Mt. Everest until today?
Between 1953 and 2011, the total number of ascents was 5584 by 3448 individuals (some having summited more than once).
Adding the totals from this year (Spring 2012) the total number of ascent of Mt. Everest until today is 6149, whereas the actual number of persons having summited Mt. Everest is 3755 till date.
Q: What was the Economic contribution of Mt. Everest Expeditions (Nepal side) in the spring 2012 climbing season?
I estimate that a total of 11.64 Million US dollars was contributed to various Mt. Everest expeditions to Nepal’s Economy.
The following are the estimated economic contributions from south side of Mt. Everest in this climbing season of Spring 2012:
Click here for a detailed breakdown of my calculation.
Mountaineering Expedition Peaks
The Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation issued a total of 104 permits to Mountaineering teams to various peaks (including Mt. Everest) in this spring season of 2012.
Also, there were 3 Nepalese Everest Expedition teams with 16 climbers and 15 HAS going above Base Camp and two Nepalese teams of 9 climbers on Mt. Api (7132m) and Baden Powell Peak (UrkemaChuli 5890m). Nepalese teams do not have to pay peak permit fees, if the Cabinet of Ministers sanctions their expedition.
Click here for a table detailing the different expedition teams, number of climbers and the royalty fees collected.
Click here for Numbers and Nationality of Climbers who summited Mt. Everest in Spring 2012 from South Side of Mt. Everest (Nepal).
For the detail name list of the 2012 Spring Mt. Everest Summiteers please click this link
Tibet Expeditions on Mt. Everest and other 8000m Peaks- Spring 2012
This climbing season, on the Tibet side of Mt. Everest, there were 14 teams with 78 foreign climber, 74 HAS, 56 Chinese Exp. Members and guides and 15 Chinese (incl. Tibetan) rope fixing team members. Among them 107 foreign and Chinese (incl. Tibetan) climbers and 58 High Altitude Sherpas reached the top of Mt. Everest from North Side this Spring Season.
Similarly 7 foreign climbers and 7 Sherpas summited Mt. Cho-oyu and none on Mt. Shishapangma this Spring season.
What other Expedition Peaks were climbed this Spring 2012?
Beside Everest Expeditions, there were 69 foreign Expedition teams to 26 other mountains. Out of these peaks, only 11 were successfully summited.
Click here to view the list of successful summits in spring 2012
Similarly there were two Nepalese teams on Api Himal (7132m) 3 members and Baden Powell Peak (Urkima Chuli 5890m) 6members.
To Summarize: This spring the Expedition Peaks of Nepal (besides Mt. Everest) saw a total of 453 foreign climbers, plus 267 HAS and 260 kitchen staffs. My best estimate is that these teams had approximately 9531 porter loads to their respective Base Camps and 5910 porter loads from Base Camp back down to the road head or airport.
On Mt. Everest, 53 per cent of the climbers were Nepalese (High Altitude Climbing Sherpas) while 47 per cent were foreign climbers. However, on other Expedition Peaks, 37% of the climbers were Nepalese and 63 per cent were foreign climbers.
Economic Contribution from these expedition teams in climbing season of spring 2012
I estimate that a total of 6.98 Million US dollars was contributed from various other mountaineering expedition peaks to Nepal’s Economy.
Click here to view more information regarding Economic Contribution from expedition teams.
NMA Climbing Peaks
Total permits issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association to NMA Peak climbing teams to various NMA peaks are 519 climbing teams with total 2225 foreign climbers in Spring 2012.These teams recruited 2540 persons as climbing guides, assistant guides, cooks and kitchen staffs and I estimate approximately 16,850 porters to Base Camp and 10,785 porter loads back from Base Camp.
On NMA peaks, the highest number of climbers were from the UK with 394 climbers, second were Germans with 336 climber, third Australian 218, fourth France 212 and fifth USA with 205 climbers. This year 34 per cent of Climbers were Nepalese, whereas 66 per cent were foreign climbers.
Click here to view the record of NMA climbing Peaks permitted in spring 2012
Economic contribution by NMA Peaks in this climbing season of Spring 2012
I estimate that a total of 7.9 Million US dollars was contributed from NMA peaks to Nepal’s Economy.
Click here to view the detailed break down of the calculation.
How is Climate Change affecting Himalayan climbing?
Climate change is making a big difference on the mountain, especially in causing more frequent avalanches and rock falls than ever observed in the past. The whole mountain is undergoing drastic changes and that includes the icefall. The climbing route had a lot of exposed rock this year due to the lack of snow cover. There were many instances of climbers being hit by falling rock. Some of the injuries were very serious and needed heli-evacuation.
Another problem that one can link to climate changes is also the fact that climbing Everest is now more and more mixed climbing with more rock exposure. This means that climbers need to be more technically skilled. Also climbing on the rock demands much more energy which may be causing a lot of less experienced/less fit climbers to become easily fatigued and vulnerable to exhaustion and to altitude problems.
Notable Ascents Climbing Season 2012
World Record: Ms. Tamae Watanbe of Japan summited Mt. Everest (8848m) on 19th May 2012 with Asian Trekking’s International Everest Expedition Spring 2012 from North Side. Ms. Watanabe; who holds the record of the oldest woman Mt. Everest Summitter broke her own record after 10 years at the age of 73 years 180 days. She has summitted Mt. Everest in 2002 at the age of 63.
Country Record: Dr. Naim Logic became the first Bosnian to summit Mt. Everest. He summited at 9:55 am with NimaKanchha Sherpa2 and Aarita Sherpa.
Country Record: LovrajDharmashaktu became the first Indian climbing Mt. Everest 4 times . He summited Mt. Everest on 25th May 2012 with NimaDorje Sherpa.
As you can see it was again a good year for mountaineering in our peaks. With more than 3000 climbers coming to our mountain and injecting more than 26.5 Million US Dollars into Nepal’s economy. Very important to note is that it is not just Mt. Everest but also the lower and lesser known peaks that are drawing climbers from around the world to Nepal.
I firmly believe Nepal could be made an even more attractive destination for the climbers and trekkers. The Nepal government needs to focus its efforts on improving infrastructure and trails, streamlining bureaucracy to make it more convenient to obtain permits, reduce permit fees to less popular peaks to promote them, strictly monitor environmental impacts, run regular clean up campaigns, remove the “one-team, one liaison officer” rule, ensure law and order in the remote mountain districts.
Similarly, we expedition operators also need to invest in training our staff, provide good quality equipment, prioritize safety over success, be uncompromising on service quality, stop competing on price (over quality service), promote mountains in remote areas (even though they are less profitable and are logistically complex).
Sherpas and climbers play the biggest role and must act responsibly. They must put safety over success, help others in need, do not steal or use the other climbers equipment and gear without permission, honor the “leave no trace” mentality, follow the rules and laws of the host country even if they disagree and respect the local customs and cultures.
If we all committed to work together on these ideas, I am sure that Nepal could become the best mountaineering destination in the world. This is very important for Nepal as it would be go a long way in helping to eradicate poverty in our Mountains.
I hope that you find this information interesting and helpful. If you have any questions then please don't hesitate to email me. Also, if you would like to know more about mountaineering and trekking in the Himalayas then please do get in touch with.
Ang Tshering Sherpa
P.O.Box 3022, Kathmandu, Nepal
Tel: 00977 (0)1 4424249 / 4426947 / 4432887 / 4419265
Fax: 00977 (0)1 4411878
I have collected and verified this information through 4 main sources:
1. Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation (Government of Nepal),
2. China Tibet Mountaineering Association
3. Nepal Mountaineering Association and
4. The excellent archives of Miss Elizabeth Hawley.
I would like to give my thanks to the various individuals and organizations in verifying the information: Expedition leaders, managers, climbers, sirdars, sherpas and expedition liaison officers. Using the figures and statistics obtained from them I have used my best estimates and calculations to give you the answers above, but any inaccuracies or faults are my own.
Asian Trekking’s Autumn Expedition Team
Experienced climber from Malaysia Mr. Ravi Chandran Tharumalingam is attempting Mt. Manaslu (5 Sep to 20 Oct). A successful summit will make him the first Malaysian on Mt. Manaslu.
Cleo Weidlich is back to attempt the 5th highest mountain Mt. Makalu. A successful climb will be her 7th successful 8000m summit in the Himalayas.
On our upcoming expedition trips for October and November, a group of seven Swiss climbers led by our friend Mr. Hans Rauner will be attempting Mt. Himlung. they are scheduled to arrive on the 5th October to Kathmandu.
Also attempting Mt. Himlung are a group of three climbers from Montana , USA. They are scheduled to arrive Kathmandu on the 11th Oct.
Michaela Brunflicker and Wolfgang Wallner from Austria will be climbing Lobuche East and Mt. Ama Dablam in October. Joining the permit and logistics at base camp are Eduardo and friends from Brasil.
As part of their scheduled trips for the autumn climbing season, our Polish friend Ryszard Pawlowski and his team will be attempting Mt. Ama Dablam. the team arrives Kathmandu on the third week of October.
Future Expeditions and Treks
1. Eco Everest Expedition 3 April - 30 May 2013. Once again Asian Trekking will be organizing the Eco Everest expedition under the leadership of Dawa Steven Sherpa Managing Director of Asian Trekking and Two Times Mt. Everest Summiteer, Mr. Pertemba Sherpa World Renowned climber and sirdar as Base Camp Manager and Nanga Dorje Sherpa as Climbing Sirdar.
2. International Mt. Lhotse Expedition 03 April – 28 May 2013
3. International Mt. Everest Expedition from the North Side 07 April – 03 June 2013
4.International Mt. Cho-Oyu Expedition 10 April – 21 May and 01 September – 12 October
5. International Mt. Shishapangma Expedition 10 April – 21 May and 01 September – 12 October
It is of great pleasure that I take this opportunity to inform you of our special discounted Expedition offers to the following Peaks for 2013.
1. Astrek Mt. Makalu Exedition 07 April – 03 June and 01 September – 28 October 2013.
2. Astrek Mt. Manaslu Expedition 09 April – 27 May and 02 September – 20 October 2013
3. Astrek Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition : 15 April – 14 May/ 25 April – 24 May/ 01 May – 30 May / 03 October – 01 November/ 15 October – 13 November/ 25 October – 23 November 2013
Everest Base Camp Trek (ATT-211)
Gokyo Ri and Chola Pass Trek (ATT-163)
Gokyo Lake Trek (ATT-213)
Heli Trek (ATT-237) – 9 DAY (ATT-236)
Heli Trek (ATT-237) – 10 DAY (ATT237)
Around Annapurna Trekking (ATT-168)
Around Annapurna – Walk In Besisahar (ATT-166)
Annapurna Sanctuary Trek (ATT-169)
Lantang – Gosikund & Helambu Trek (ATT-219)
Great Himalayan Trail (ATT-235)
60th Anniversary Of First Ascent Of MT. Everest Celebration Trek – (ATT-233)
We felt you would want to hear about this and we are hoping that you take full advantage of these offers. If you require further information about our expeditions please visit our website: www.asian-trekking.com or write to us at firstname.lastname@example.org; Or Skype : astrekdawa
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