Gavan, Bolotov, Urubko and more: about upcoming winter climbs and Everest new route

Posted: Nov 29, 2012 03:33 pm EST

(Newsdesk/edited Dec 4, 9.02 am) Alex Gavan is not going to Karakoram this winter he told ExplorersWeb yesterday. The expedition was cancelled.

Jasmine Tours reported a few days back that they'll be supporting three out of five winter expeditions this year: two on Nanga Parbat and one on Broad Peak.

In an interview with ExplorersWeb Ian Overton said they expected company of another Romanian expedition but as he said they shared the same outfitter he probably meant the Polish team mentioned by Jasmine.

The Justice For All Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition will attempt Rupal Schell and climbers are Tomasz Mackiewicz (Leader), Marek Klonowski, Piotr Strzezysz, Adrian Kutarba and Tomasz Kowalski.

As for Broad Peak, in another interview with ExWeb Artur Hajzer said Krzysztof Wielicki agreed to lead the next winter expedition but financial situation restricted number of members. Climbers are not yet set for this team, also outfitted by Jasmine.

Alax Gavan recently returned from Lhotse. Check his debrief where he has some good words about Alexey Bolotov (who made it to 8300 m).

Bolotov in turn appeared in another set of news today, forwarded by Abramov's 7summits-club, stating that Denis Urubko in an interview with Kazakh site talked about his plan to climb Everest in alpine style via a new route together with Bolotov. (Ed note/Dec 4, 9.02 am: the climb is planned for next spring).

Alpine style climbs are usually done on lower peaks, but a few climbers - such as Denis - have mastered to summit 8000ers this way. "If we manage to climb in alpine style on Everest, I think it will be a significant event, a new word in the history of mountaineering," Denis said. "For my self-realization as an athlete, it is very important."

Busy with his piloting/rescue gigs, Urubko's regular climbing partner Simone Moro will not return to winter Karakoram this season.

#Mountaineering #topstory

Alexey Bolotov fixing ropes in spindrift at around 7200m on the Lhotse face this fall.
Image by Alex Gavan, SOURCE

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