Winter Pakistan: Revol/Nardi last round on Mummery

Posted: Jan 31, 2013 09:23 pm EST

(Newsdesk) Tomek and Marek are in camp 2 on Nanga Parbat, psyched after setting up camp 3.

Polish plans for a fast camp 2 were delayed by a stomach bug but yesterday Amin and Shaheen Baig fixed rope to 6,200 meters on Broad Peak.

The Hungarian/Americans are suffering on Nanga Parbat's Diamir face. The Italian/French team did a cool climb on Messner's line of descent.

Nanga Parbat Diamir Hungarian/American attempt, "merely delayed, not defeated."

Seriously battered by the winter conditions, "we’ve had power maybe 5 of the past 26 days we’ve been here," Ian reported yesterday, the team's morale is a bit low.

The climbers plan to head down the mountain to Chilas for a few days to resupply and rest. "Zoltan is currently thinking about heading home early," Ian wrote. "The frostbite on his toe is of concern."

Winter climbers often say the conditions go hard on the gear, the climb, and the mind. Ian describes it:

"I’ve been going through rather severe mood swings in the past few weeks. While on the mountain, I feel blissed out on everything. From the alpine-glow to the crevasse falls the world is divine, full of wonder and fascination. It’s humbling and empowering and breath- taking and mind-blowing. Cognitive self-centering as David has referred to it.

But then there are days like today where I feel out of place, that things are falling apart and I should be back at home in Colorado. Back with friends and family and cold beer (note: the first person to put a Colorado IPA in my hand when I get back state-side will receive a marriage proposal) and big laughs and warm rooms.

But this too shall pass. We have a month left in the expedition with much to see and do. We are not here to dwell on where we could be. We are here to climb to great heights and breathe rarefied air, to grow as people and gain understanding of ourselves. We are merely delayed, not defeated."

Nanga Parbat Diamir: Nardi/Revol Mummery ridge

Over the past three days Eli and Dan made their final acclimatization round, this time on Nanga Parbat. The team went for the most direct route to reach the summit plateau; Mummery ridge - or the Messner descent.

"Really strange feeling to find ourselves in his footsteps some 40 years later!" wrote Eli. The team reported a technical but protected route on mixed snow and ice. Snow depth sometimes up to the waist, and difficulty to find a spot for the tent on the steep wall.

But at night, "5 star views of all the mountains of Pakistan, silence of the falling snow, magical place!"

After a snow storm on January 28 the climbers woke to frozen gear (including the stove), windy with squalls at 80-100 km/h, and bitter cold. They climbed to 6400 meters on hard ice, and descended by the same route. Here goes a cool video from the climb:

Nanga Parbat Winter 05 mummery 01 from Daniele Nardi on Vimeo.

Direct links to expedition reports:

Nanga Parbat Diamir face:

Nardi's reports

Eli's reports

Ian, David and Zoltan on FB

Hungarian/American team Contact tracker

Nanga Parbat Rupal face:

Joel Wischnewski

Tomek and Marek


Broad Peak:

Polish on FB

Polish winter news

News updates about the winter expeditions

Raheel Adnan's Altitude Pakistan


Previous update


Winter permits, calendar climbs and more: 2004 ExWeb series revisit

Winter 8000ers: Statistics recall

Himalaya winter games: list of expeditions is up

Hunt For Funds And A Tuna Freezer: ExWeb Interview With Team Nanga Parbat
#Mountaineering #topstory

Elisabeth and Daniele left BC yesterday morning.
Image by Daniele Nardi/Elisabeth Revol courtesy Daniele Nardi/Elisabeth Revol, SOURCE
January 28 the climbers woke to 80-100 km/h gusts and bitter cold. They climbed to 6400 meters on hard ice.
Image by Daniele Nardi/Elisabeth Revol courtesy Daniele Nardi, SOURCE
"I was very scared when the stoves and the gas didn’t work in the first attempt on Mummery ridge."
Image by Daniele Nardi courtesy Daniele Nardi, Elisabeth Revol, SOURCE
Elisabeth almost hit bottom in one abyss at the foot of the wall.
Image by Daniele Nardi courtesy Daniele Nardi/Elisabeth Revol, SOURCE
French snowboarder Joel posted a pic of the Rupal side.
Image by Joel Wischnewski courtesy Joel Wischnewski, SOURCE
Nanga Dream's tracker. Tomek and Marek set C3.
Image by Nanga Dream expedition

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