(Newsdesk) Tomek and Marek are in camp 2 on Nanga Parbat, psyched after setting up camp 3.
Polish plans for a fast camp 2 were delayed by a stomach bug but yesterday Amin and Shaheen Baig fixed rope to 6,200 meters on Broad Peak.
The Hungarian/Americans are suffering on Nanga Parbat's Diamir face. The Italian/French team did a cool climb on Messner's line of descent.
Nanga Parbat Diamir Hungarian/American attempt, "merely delayed, not defeated."
Seriously battered by the winter conditions, "we’ve had power maybe 5 of the past 26 days we’ve been here," Ian reported yesterday, the team's morale is a bit low.
The climbers plan to head down the mountain to Chilas for a few days to resupply and rest. "Zoltan is currently thinking about heading home early," Ian wrote. "The frostbite on his toe is of concern."
Winter climbers often say the conditions go hard on the gear, the climb, and the mind. Ian describes it:
"I’ve been going through rather severe mood swings in the past few weeks. While on the mountain, I feel blissed out on everything. From the alpine-glow to the crevasse falls the world is divine, full of wonder and fascination. It’s humbling and empowering and breath- taking and mind-blowing. Cognitive self-centering as David has referred to it.
But then there are days like today where I feel out of place, that things are falling apart and I should be back at home in Colorado. Back with friends and family and cold beer (note: the first person to put a Colorado IPA in my hand when I get back state-side will receive a marriage proposal) and big laughs and warm rooms.
But this too shall pass. We have a month left in the expedition with much to see and do. We are not here to dwell on where we could be. We are here to climb to great heights and breathe rarefied air, to grow as people and gain understanding of ourselves. We are merely delayed, not defeated."
Nanga Parbat Diamir: Nardi/Revol Mummery ridge
Over the past three days Eli and Dan made their final acclimatization round, this time on Nanga Parbat. The team went for the most direct route to reach the summit plateau; Mummery ridge - or the Messner descent.
"Really strange feeling to find ourselves in his footsteps some 40 years later!" wrote Eli. The team reported a technical but protected route on mixed snow and ice. Snow depth sometimes up to the waist, and difficulty to find a spot for the tent on the steep wall.
But at night, "5 star views of all the mountains of Pakistan, silence of the falling snow, magical place!"
After a snow storm on January 28 the climbers woke to frozen gear (including the stove), windy with squalls at 80-100 km/h, and bitter cold. They climbed to 6400 meters on hard ice, and descended by the same route. Here goes a cool video from the climb:
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